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upnorth

Trying to fix up this old saddle---could use some advice/suggestions

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I picked up this here saddle last summer. It was wasting away in an old barn and hadn't been stored properly, it had really been neglected for quite some time and was beginning to dry out, I don't think it would have lasted much longer if I hadn't talked the owner out of it and hauled it home. Now I don't know to much about old saddles and nothing about repairing them, but I really kind of thought it was a neat thing so I decided to try and fix it up some so I could ride it. There is no makers mark on it that I can find only the # 1411 on the keeper (which looks original but has never been used). It has a rawhide covered wood tree with a wood horn. The horn is 4-5/8" wide. The gullet is a full 7" and the bars are long & wide with a double twist. The stirrup leathers had 2 pins with a big safety pin arrangment for adjustment. The stirrups had been adjusted all the way up and the ends cut off. All of the hardware is solid brass. The stirrups are oak & wrapped in galvanized sheet. It is all roughout, everything including the cinch straps and strings were roughout. The leather on the seat is really heavy and a measured 1/4" thick. The whole thing is made out of this really heavy leather. It appeared to be all original except for the forward cinch straps which look to have been replaced a long time ago. Someone at one time also added some screws to the rigging which appears to be good and solid yet. I took it all apart and gave it a good cleaning and began to treat the leather. The sheepskin, stirrup leathers, forward cinch straps & strings were in need of replacement. The horn also had to be restitched which I did. After treating the leather it came back to life pretty well and I got some new latigo strings and forward cinch straps and also some stirrup leathers. It took me a while to figure out how to replace the stirrup leathers but I got them on there and also put some Blevins buckles on. I also put a twist on them and made a couple brass conchos (even engraved them some) for the ends as keepers. I took the skirts off and removed the sheepskin and carefully picked out all the stitches. This is where I could use some help---where can I find replacement sheepskin and is there anything I should know about putting it on? Would there be someone out there that would be willing to put the sheepskin on for me? If someone could tell me anything about this saddle like who might have made it or how old it is I would be interested in hearing it. I figure it is from the 30s' judging by some of the hardware that is on it. The stirrups have the old black iron square nut bolts. Anyhow thanks for listening,,,,,,,,TC

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Can't someone tell me where to get a sheepskin for lining????????? I guess I have got this project pretty far by myself so far maybe I will just keep looking and figure it out on my own. Thanks anyway,,,,, T. Clark Mountain, WI

Edited by upnorth

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I can't help you with your questions, but give it time and I'm sure someone will chime in. Your post isn't that old.

I couldn't help but notice the rifles above the bench. Three flint locks from the look of things. You happen do any work on those?

Jason

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TC,

Looks like a variation of a Crosby tree or something similar to that. Time frame is pretty open with no maker stamp on the saddle. The #1411 might mean something to someone. I have seen those safety pin stirrup buckles, but don't know a time frame for them either.

Replacing the sheepskin is a little bit of an involved process. First off, you need to use barktanned sheepskins. They vary in quality size and price. Most all of the leather suppliers carry one kind or another. I like the LMs from Siegels. The color is a little more to the golden yellow shade. Probably an 11 ft skin would do those skirts. The right 10 footer might make it. There is controversy among makers how to align the sheepskins, and probably valid arguments for most ways. I put them with the bar area to the middle of the skin and the front of the skirt to the butt of the sheep. I use rubber cement to adhere them. Make sure there are no bubbles or wrinkles. I sew them on, and then trim the edges flush with the skirts. Then I take a set of clippers and bevel the wool back from the edges at about a 45 degree angle. Then I punch the lacing holes through the wool, lace them together and put them back on. If the saddle has strings I usually replace them just because. Likewise with lug/tug/uptugs/whatever you want to call the straps if you don't sew pockets or riggings to the skirts. Then renail or rescrew the gullets.

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the saddle looks a lot like the colorado saddle I have in the barn here is a pic.100_0019.jpg Checking with the family itis thought this one is in the 60s and if you have time you might change your blevens buckle around and run the leather on the out side less leather around the top of the stirrup and faster changing. If i can get this putor to give the pics I just put in back there is more pics in it to show you

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Bruce thank you kindly for the information that is precisely what I needed to know. I see on the Siegel website that there priced @ $5.55 per and I am assuming that is per sq. ft.? That doesn't sound like to bad of a price to me either. Jason yes I build guns and have a blacksmith shop, I see your from N.C., I learned a lot about both of those things from a fellow down your way, him & a fellow from Williamburg, VA. Thanks for the help & regards, TC ( -18 below here at the moment- at least the sun is out though!

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I have an old Herford like that, they were real good at fitting a lot of horse types.

Are those flints ones you built? That's another craft I wish I had the patience for. I admire the heck out of the carving and googahs that go on some of the extravegant ones. Nice plain one gets exciting too.GH

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