Sewing In A Zip

[leaky5]

I am trying to insert a zip into a slot I have cut in a piece of leather. As you can see from the picture the zip wont lay flat.

Any ideas how to stop this happening, I am thinking about glueing 2 small strips of leather to the under side of the zip to make it less flexible and then sewing right through.

Edited May 19, 2015 by leaky5

[leaky5]

Thinking about it, I may try and glue the zip to the leather in the picture first and then glue a small strip along the under side.

[TomG]

Should help. It looks like your bottom feed dog is pushing the tape up and the top is not feeding as much.

Double sided tape.... Better than glue

[leaky5]

Should help. It looks like your bottom feed dog is pushing the tape up and the top is not feeding as much.

Double sided tape.... Better than glue

This is hand stitched, are you refering to machine stitching ?

[TomG]

Didn't know it was hand stitched. Yes, I was referring to machine.

I'd still tape it.

[ConradPark]

Well, if you're actually talking about the item in the picture I'm afraid that you will not be able to salvage it. You'll need to remove the stitching and start over.

Regardless of how you attach the zipper to the leather prior to stitching (gluing or tape or whatever) it's there and then you'll be able to make any adjustments. If it's not lying flat just pull it off and start over. Once it's flat, start stitching. Using a stitching pony/clamp helps. Make sure not to pull away the zipper material of the leather as you stitch - difficult in the beginning but with practice it gets easier. I always push a stitching awl through all holes prior to stitching while having it flat against a rubber mat or similar. Makes it easier when sewing.

Also - the width of the gap for the zipper should be as little as possible. Yours seems a bit unnecessary wide - but it might be the photo. Finally, use metal zippers. Nylon/plastic zippers are usually of lower quality and that might also explain the stretchiness.

Good Luck.

Edited May 20, 2015 by ConradPark

[leaky5]

Well, if you're actually talking about the item in the picture I'm afraid that you will not be able to salvage it. You'll need to remove the stitching and start over.

Regardless of how you attach the zipper to the leather prior to stitching (gluing or tape or whatever) it's there and then you'll be able to make any adjustments. If it's not lying flat just pull it off and start over. Once it's flat, start stitching. Using a stitching pony/clamp helps. Make sure not to pull away the zipper material of the leather as you stitch - difficult in the beginning but with practice it gets easier. I always push a stitching awl through all holes prior to stitching while having it flat against a rubber mat or similar. Makes it easier when sewing.

Also - the width of the gap for the zipper should be as little as possible. Yours seems a bit unnecessary wide - but it might be the photo. Finally, use metal zippers. Nylon/plastic zippers are usually of lower quality and that might also explain the stretchiness.

Good Luck.

Thanks, lol, I have aready removed it once, I started by stiching all the way one way around and had the same problem. So then I started with two sets of needles and thread and worked down each side at the same time to try and keep it even, but it is now as above. I am in no rush to do this, so may start again and cut a smaller slot, it is a bit wide. I also may use this piece as a practice one. I will also look into metal zips.

Edited May 20, 2015 by leaky5

[MonicaJacobson]

lol, last time I stitched in a zipper, I ended up throwing it somewhere. But Conrad is right on. Glue or tape it and it should work out.

[Wicked Welts]

Am I right in thinking it would be wise to make the zipper opening narrow enough to not quite cover the teeth, yet close enough to cause the head of the zipper pull to spread or 'plow' the leather out of the way as it goes along?

Edited May 21, 2015 by Wicked Welts

[Northmount]

Keep the leather and zipper flat. If you bend it while stitching, the inside radius is smaller, and if that is the side the zipper is on, it will bunch up. Glue or double sided tape helps, but keeping it flat is still required until all stitching is finished. Oh, and don't stretch the zipper fabric.

For those that use machines, walking foot compound machines feed both the top and bottom together. Bottom feed only with the zipper on the bottom is going to bunch up, and stretching to keep things straight may not help in all cases.

Tom

[leaky5]

.

Keep the leather and zipper flat. If you bend it while stitching, the inside radius is smaller, and if that is the side the zipper is on, it will bunch up. Glue or double sided tape helps, but keeping it flat is still required until all stitching is finished. Oh, and don't stretch the zipper fabric.

For those that use machines, walking foot compound machines feed both the top and bottom together. Bottom feed only with the zipper on the bottom is going to bunch up, and stretching to keep things straight may not help in all cases.

Tom

I think I may have bent the leather when stitching.

The original piece was one piece with a slot cut in it and a 12” zip, it was a bit inflexible and I thought the hole was a bit to small.

I have decided to try it last this, 2 pieces (also thinner than before) and a 14” zip. I will also make the width between the leather pieces about the same as the zip head.

Edited May 23, 2015 by leaky5

[ConradPark]

As the leather is two separate pieces I would suggest that you unzip the zipper and sew the two sides separate from each other. This way you minimize the risk of undoing the leather from the zipper. If you're using a pricking iron, use the widest you have, I wouldn't be afraid of having 5mm or 1/5 inch between stitches.

This helps too. Also, don't worry about pulling every stitch so tight. A light 'pull' after each one is sufficient enough. You could also try a normal 'back stitch' as well. You only need one needle and goes a lot faster too.

There are plenty of YouTube videos that show how to do that. The stitch looks like a saddle stitch from above, but under it over locks itself and actually help keep the zipper garment in place better than a saddle stitch. Just practice on some scrap first.
Good Luck

[leaky5]

As the leather is two separate pieces I would suggest that you unzip the zipper and sew the two sides separate from each other. This way you minimize the risk of undoing the leather from the zipper. If you're using a pricking iron, use the widest you have, I wouldn't be afraid of having 5mm or 1/5 inch between stitches.

This helps too. Also, don't worry about pulling every stitch so tight. A light 'pull' after each one is sufficient enough. You could also try a normal 'back stitch' as well. You only need one needle and goes a lot faster too.

There are plenty of YouTube videos that show how to do that. The stitch looks like a saddle stitch from above, but under it over locks itself and actually help keep the zipper garment in place better than a saddle stitch. Just practice on some scrap first.

Good Luck

Thanks. I really need some bigger pricking irons. I have recently bought some 2x3mm and 4x3mm Seiwa's and intend to get some 2x4, 4x4, 2x5 and 4x5's as soon as I can afford to.

I wanted the 3mm ones so I could put some fine stiching onto the bag I an doing. As the zip piece is probably one of the last pieces to go onto the bag, I may hold fire until I get some bigger irons. I want to finish this by about September, so have plenty of time to work on the other stiching and do the zip later on.