Please Help Me With My First Project Plan

[Riplikash]

Hello all,

First post and first project. I have been studiously gathering information and creating a plan to start my first leather-working project. I'm going with a couple of simple dress belts to keep things simple.

I was hoping to run my plan by some people with more experience in the area than I before I make my first set of purchases. So if anyone could help me fill in a few holes and critique my plan, I would appreciate it.

Some background: I'm a fair hand at several crafts so I have a decent set of tools already. But this is my first attempt at leather working. My #1 goal is usually to make things look professional, not home-made. So, that being said:

1. I was planning on using the belt blanks from Tandy, though I see Springfield has blanks too, so that is an option. On a related note, would it be better to go through Springfield, Tandy, some other company, or just grab stuff piecemeal from Amazon?

Is there anything I should be pre-treating the leather with to achieve an even stain?

2. Cut the belt to size (probably with xacto knives for now), and punch belt holes with rotary punch

3. Bevel edges using hand beveling tool. I am worried that perhaps the tools don't come pre-sharpened. Anyone know if that is the case? Also, I've seen some tutorials say to sand the edges BEFORE beveling. What exactly would that accomplish?

I'm also a bit confused on beveler sizes. Tandy at least has several. A suggestion about what size to use for a belt would be appreciated.

A few tutorials also suggest wetting and working leather soap into the edge at this point? Important step?

4. Burnish edge with plastic edge slicker (the one Tandy leather sells). I've also seen a wooden burnishing tool with multiple sizes. Would that be a better idea to get?

5. Planning on dying the leather with Fielbing's Oil Dye (dark brown) using my airbrush. Playing with the idea of using light brown as a base and dark brown (again, via airbrush) to add a dark/light/dark gradient to the belts. I've done a lot of airbrushing with oil paints, and in most other applications it seems to give a deeper penetrating, longer lasting, and more rich paint job. I'm assuming that is the case with leather as well, but if alcohol or acrylic based dyes have some things in their favor I'm unaware of, please correct me.

5. Dye the edges. I've seen several "Edge Cote" products. Is that preferable to just using the dye I used on the rest of the belt?

6. Hand burnish edges with edge slicker

7. Polish edges. I've seen paraffin wax suggested, but I'm open to suggestions.

8. Finish: aaand, here I'm a bit stumped. I could really use suggestions. I was thinking of using a liquid I could apply via airbrush. Possibly a satin or semi-gloss finish? I don't know. Again, first time working with leather, I'm not sure what kind of finish I like on it yet. I just know I like it to look and feel like leather, not plastic, so probably no high gloss finishes.

9. dye and finish the little belt loops. Attatch.

10. Attach belt buckle and give as gift.

So that's my plan. Which leaves this as my purchase list:

Beveling tool

wood or plastic edge bevel slicker

rotary punch

Fielbings professional dye

2 belt blanks and two belt buckles

belt loops

some sort of finish?

edge kote?

Sorry if that was a bit long, but there is my plan. Does that look good? Do I have anything out of order, or am I missing any steps?

Anyways, thanks in advance for any replies. Jumping into a new craft is always nerve wracking for me.

[Dwight]

It's quicker if I just tell you how I make a belt. I don't do very many single layer belts, . . . but when I do, . . . this is the process.

Cut the belt blank, . . . every supplier I've purchased blanks from were sorry, shoddy, and/or bum leather, . . . cut my own from a larger piece of leather. I use a strap cutter, . . . but a razor knive (think drywall knife) works well if you strop the blade first. Exacto knives are for making model airplanes.

Cut the ends, . . . one is pointed (tongue end) the other is rounded (buckle end)

Punch the holes for buckle on both ends.

Sand all the edges with a belt sander. This gets rid of imperfections that originate in the cutting, . . . especially on the ends. You can sand down a real nice half circle, . . . but only about 1 person in 100 can cut a really nice half circle time and time again.

Bevel the edges.

Make the belt keeper.

Dye the leather, . . . I personally only dip dye, . . . dunking it gets a really good penetration that cannot be matched with a dauber and an air brush just barely coats the outside surface. It is also more uniform. If you make a belt today, . . . and the guy wants one a month later for his lady to match his, . . . dunking is the one way that will come close to guaranteeing the color will match. All other ways I've tried are a gamble.

Allow to dry for 24 hours.

Burnish the edges with water and a slicker, . . . most edge paints will eventually flake off, . . . so use dye on the edge if you want to do a 2 tone.

Finish the belt, . . . I use 50/50 resolene.

Allow it to dry for 24 hours before messing with it any more.

Put it together, . . . I use Chicago screws, . . . no snaps.

Now, . . . for your list:

Beveling tool OK, . . . get a # 4

wood or plastic edge bevel slicker OK

rotary punch Nahh, . . . get a mallet and the two "Punch Sets", with the little replaceable tips.

Fielbings professional dye OK, . . . just pick a oil dye color

2 belt blanks and two belt buckles I'd probably buy a double shoulder, . . . unless you need a really big belt, . . . a large double shoulder will give you enough length for most, . . . and some really good leather for other projects. If you buy their blanks, . . . make sure you turn them over and look at the backs. No dangly thingys hanging down, . . . even thickness from one end to the other, . . . even hardness from one end to the other, . . . if it is really soft, . . . it was cut from the sides and almost belly leather, . . . which makes lousy, stretchy belts.

belt loops OK, . . . I prefer to make my own

some sort of finish? Resolene

edge kote? Nahh, . . . save your money

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited November 26, 2013 by Dwight

[Riplikash]

Thanks so much for the excellent advice. It is a huge help.

[Ken G]

If its not too late to add. Tandy sells two types of bevelers. The "keen edge" costs a few dollars more, is a little harder to sharpen, but is much easier to use, at least for me. They have videos how to sharpen both kinds.

I also found the wood slicker they sell works better than the plastic circle. Its also easier on the hands. I haven't tried the other plastic slicker/folder they sell.

[Riplikash]

Great, thanks for the additional info. I grabbed the plastic initially, but that was so cheap I don't mind buying something else.

I think I mis-understood your advice on edges though. I thought you were saying it's best to just bevel it by sanding and to not use a beveling tool. But now I'm thinking you may be saying the opposite?

[Sylvia]

The only thing I would add to your list and to the other's advice is patience... lots and lots of patience. If you think your dye is dry 2 hours after dying.. it's not.. give it 24 to 36 hours to dry before you do anything else.

More people have trouble when they rush a process. If you can start out knowing that you have to allow time between dye coats and finishes... you have half the (learning) battle won.

Good luck!

[Feraud]

Just to echo the great advice about giving your dyes and finish enough time to dry. Do not rush it!

On the projects I've worked on I give the dye and/or resolene at least 24 hours to dry between coats.

I can report no dye rub off or gummy resolene finishes so far!