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MasonA

Members
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MasonA

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mankato, MN
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knife Making, Leather working

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    holsters and knife sheaths
  • Interested in learning about
    everything
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    leather class
  1. The leather wasn't damp at all. Although I do wonder if the leather may have been too dry? I live in MN, and during the winter here it is extremely dry. The cold weather freezes the moisture in the air. You guys think that could be a cause? And if you have the info, what do you keep your humidity level at in your shop?
  2. Shouldn’t be a leather issue. This is from a b grade Hermann oak back that I just bought. I dampened the leather and slicked it down which worked really well. Being a nube to sewing machines I wasn't sure if there was something that I could adjust on the machine. Not sure if you can adjust the height or pressure that the walking foot presses into the feed dog. Do any of you do this? Changing the height or pressure of the foot (the one that the needle goes through) as you sew different thicknesses of leather?
  3. Thanks for the info guys. Yeah I think I might try a smaller needle. this one is a size 25 with 277 thread on top and 207 on the bottom.
  4. So I finally got my sewing machine. I've been stitching holsters by hand until now. I got the machine set up (toro 3200) ran a few practice peices, and then stitched up a concealed carry belt. the stitch looks great on top. nice and even and about level with the surface of the leather, but the back side (I line my belts) has a rippled effect caused from the hollow in the feed dog. So to all of you sewing machine junkies out there, is this a normal look, or is there something that i should adjust??
  5. I have a quick question for all you belt makers. How do you attach your keepers?? Molst of the belts i see look like the keeper is simply sandwiched between the rivets or chigago screws that secure the buckel fold over. This seems like the simplest method but does it hold the keeper tight enough to keep it from rotating and showing its joint?? Of course I'm planning on experimenting with it, but any neat tips and tricks that people are willing to divulge would be appreciated especially since there is a fast vs. quality method in just about everything that has to do with leather. So in the belt world what is considered fast and functional, and what is considered the high quality way to attach belt keepers? Thanks, Mason Anderson www.facebook.com/shieldcustoms
  6. I'm making a shoulder holster (my first), and would appreciate some strap advice from you talented people. I'm planning on making them out of 4/5 oz 1" strips of back leather. Of course I'll want them to be adjustable so i'm planning on incorporating double loop sliders for this, however I'm not sure which ones I should get. I'm afraid that I will get my strap all put together only to find out that there's not enough friction in the slider to hold the adjustment. I've seen some that have a center bar that slides which would seem to sinch tighter on the strap, but I do like the styling on some of the other fixed center sliders; anyone have any ideas, and links to where I can purchase the hardware?? I have not officially started my company yet so I have no tax ID to work with wholsale-only distributors like Ohio Travel Bag so i'm out of luck there for the moment. Also since i'm kind of strap stupid, anyone have any instruction or links to good articles on the purpose and proper use of hardware (certain buckel styles, sliders, dee rings, etc...) ? Thank you much.
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