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UberSquid

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    36
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About UberSquid

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern Indiana
  • Interests
    Things that go bang

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    holsters and archery gear
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    yahoo
  1. I've used a fine blade in a scroll saw as well but for really fast accurate cutting nothing beats a router table with a bearing trim bit! It rips right through the leather up to the MDF pattern as fast as you can go and you can knock out a stack of pieces if you are trying to make several of the same pattern.
  2. What about just Neatsfoot oil and Beeswax? it's easy to make and apply and is water resistant as long as you reapply once a year or so. It's 100% natural, doesn't change the color of the leather much if at all and it's got a long history behind it. It won't ruin your stitching, doesn't leave a chemical odor and did I mention that it's easy? Personally it's my favorite if I'm looking for a mat finish. I made up 8 ounces of the stuff a while back and it lasts forever.
  3. I stain the inside of my holsters and then seal them when I seal the outside. I've never had any issues with stain coming off on the gun. The flesh side of the leather really soaks up the stain so I doubt that you will have that issue even if you don't seal it but I may be wrong on that one...
  4. I guess that puts wet forming out of the question then...
  5. Isn't this chrome tanned? Should you be using it to line holsters? Conventional wisdom is that chrome tanned leather will destroy the finish on most guns. Have you had any issues or have you been using it long enough to know if it's causing problems?
  6. It's listed now! http://springfieldleather.com/33452/Lining%2CMilitary-Boot-Scuff/ I emailed Kevin to ask where it was since I couldn't find it and he echoed your statement about not having put it on the web site. He also said that he would have it up in a short time and by the time I finished reading the email, sure enough, there it was. This is why I like Springfield and continue to use them as my supplier. Great service, and fast response time. (I have no affiliation with Springfield other than being a paying client.) I'm thinking that Boot Scuff would be nice for some rough side out IWB holsters and a line of camera cases for Large Format Cameras that I've been working on...
  7. Where is this "Boot Scuff" listed on their web site? I've done several searches and can't fine it. From the sound of it though this is something that I want! Is it listed under a different name? Thanks!
  8. That is interesting, I've never gotten horse hide to turn color that much with just neatsfoot oil. I'll have to experiment more with it. When I mist on dye I've been using oil based dye cut heavy with alcohol and put on wet to get better penetration. I'm happy with the dye it's just the stain that doesn't seem to go very deep so it's only been used on holsters for my personal guns up to this point. (I don't mind a bit of wear on my gear, it gives me an excuse to make a new one for myself.) Again, beautiful work. Shoulder holsters have such a classic look and you really nailed it!
  9. I wanted to avoid pitch since most of my holsters are stitched with natural colored linen thread. That and the mess. Molten pots of wax already tend to cause moments of marital strife as is so I'd like to avoid creating more. I did make up a new batch of the 2:1 last night. Getting the water temperature right is the real trick it seems. Too hot and it sticks to my hands and makes a mess but produces a perfect wax. Too cold and the rosin falls out of solution creating tiny crystals in the beeswax. It looks like a candy thermometer and some note taking are in my future. If I can get repeatable results at specific volumes and temperatures it would make this whole process easier.
  10. Lobo, that is exactly the look I've been trying to get out of my horse hide! I could get that nice variegated look with the Eco-Flow all in one but I wasn't happy with having to stain after stitching and forming. Right now I'm using Fiebings Pro Oil dye misted on with an air brush and once it's dried going back over with a darker coat of Fiebings Antique paste to bring out the differences in the grain. It gives me that look but the Antique paste doesn't penetrate very far into the leather and I'd like to find something a bit more durable. Would you be willing to share your dying process? Beautiful work all around! Thank you for sharing! Jeremiah
  11. I've really enjoyed working the horse hide. It sure looks good when you get a nice piece. I'm concidering buying a Hermann Oak shoulder for my next run though. Horse butts are fun but it's frustrating at times trying to cut pieces of consistent thickness and I hate to see that much scrap go into the box.
  12. I think you will be happy with your purchase but make sure and let us know what you think. That great big spool sure is motivating!
  13. Of course Turpentine is the one thing I don't have in my shop... I'll have to hit the hardware store tonight. I've also tried several other types of thread and I just haven't found anything that looks or feels as good as linen. Natural colored linen on a brown or mahogany colored piece of leather has that classy old world look to it that is eternal. Personally I really like the glue type effect of the 2:1 rosin:beeswax that I'm using but it does stick to the fingers when you are waxing the string. Fortunately it is a thin layer that wears off quickly and actually leaves my hands well conditioned without softening the callouses to the point where they peel. I've always had problems with my hands drying and cracking but they are looking pretty good since I've been using the code. (Or Coad if you prefer.) I'll have to try making up a batch of the 1:1 stuff tonight. I suspect that I might not be as happy with it but since I can always melt it down and change the ratio, nothing is lost on an experiment. It might be better for working in this heat anyway. What I'm using does get really sticky really quick as soon as I put it in my hand and start running thread across it.
  14. I recently ordered some horse butts from Springfield and loved the first two that I got. The grain patter was awesome when dyed brown or mahogany, it burnished really well and molded nicely. I really liked the stuff but it seemed like there was a lot of waste at the ends. Not that I could complain too much since it was only $12! Once that was used up I ordered some more but I'm not too happy with the first one I'm working with. It doesn't have the same grain texture, it's thinner, it's not as stiff and it just doesn't work as well as the last batch did. I haven't tried the others in the order yet though. Anyone else tried the horse butts from Springfield? Any issues? Did I just get one bad butt or is it usually hit and miss? I've been using this for prototypes so it's not really a loss since they are going to go in the bin or become my personal carry holsters anyway. Just to make clear though, this in no way is a complaint about Springfield, I think they have wonderful customer service and have been happy with them at every transaction. I'm just wondering what other people's experience has been with this particular product. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep using the horse butts to make these holsters or if I should just order a double shoulder on my next purchase. Thanks Jeremiah
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