DonBurch Report post Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) I want to make an Indian War era style holster (probably 1874 or 1879). I have found two sources that sell the acorn style finial (stud) and I also have appropriate patterns. How do I properly set the brass finial without causing it to be misshapen when I peen the end over the washer? Edited February 14, 2012 by DonBurch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 14, 2012 Hi Don, By "Brass Finial", do you mean a Sam Brown Button Stud? Can you show us a picture of the stud or give a url? Art I want to make an Indian War era style holster (probably 1874 or 1879). I have found two sources that sell the acorn style finial (stud) and I also have appropriate patterns. How do I properly set the brass finial without causing it to be misshapen when I peen the end over the washer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DonBurch Report post Posted February 14, 2012 Hi Don, By "Brass Finial", do you mean a Sam Brown Button Stud? Can you show us a picture of the stud or give a url? Art Art, Hopefully my attempt at including an attachment has worked. The stud I'm referring to has an acorn shape so it is pointed on one end. It doesn't have a rounded shape quite like the Sam Browne stud. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 14, 2012 They (Weaver) used to make an anvil with the proper depression for setting Sam Brown studs. I have not seen it for a while. I just milled a hole in an anvil with a 1/4" round end mill and use that. I think a hole for the acorn finial might be a little more challenging. You could rough out a depression with an end mill and then finish it to depth with a Dremel type grinding stone. Art Art, Hopefully my attempt at including an attachment has worked. The stud I'm referring to has an acorn shape so it is pointed on one end. It doesn't have a rounded shape quite like the Sam Browne stud. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
malabar Report post Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) Art, Hopefully my attempt at including an attachment has worked. The stud I'm referring to has an acorn shape so it is pointed on one end. It doesn't have a rounded shape quite like the Sam Browne stud. Interesting. I would have expected that to be a screw mount. Never seen a mount like that on a piece of brass before, but then, I don't work with historic hardware, either. I'd be interested in hearing the answer, too. tk Edited February 14, 2012 by malabar Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DonBurch Report post Posted February 14, 2012 They (Weaver) used to make an anvil with the proper depression for setting Sam Brown studs. I have not seen it for a while. I just milled a hole in an anvil with a 1/4" round end mill and use that. I think a hole for the acorn finial might be a little more challenging. You could rough out a depression with an end mill and then finish it to depth with a Dremel type grinding stone. Art Art, I appreciate your reply. I figured there must be a specific anvil needed since that is what a rivet requires to be set. I don't have metal working skills, but suppose I could try to fashion something to fit this acorn stud. Neither source I have found have been very helpful about setting the stud (names intentionally withheld). Seems like either company would be selling correctly shaped anvils as well. I may just try and use a Sam Browne stud or a button stud, but neither are correct for the period. My local leather store carries Sam Browne and button studs so I guess I could look further into this option. If anyone has further ideas I would love to hear them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 15, 2012 Find a flat washer with a large enough hole for the piece...or drill it bigger. Get a threaded metal cap from the plumbing section big enough for the finial. Coat or wrap the finial (thin food wrap / saran wrap) to prevent sticking and mostly fill the cap with epoxy, leaving just enough room for some "squish" displacement. Center the washer over the filled cap and insert the finial. You should have enough displacement for the epoxy to contact the washer, which will stick it to the cap permanently. When it completely sets, you'll have a finial anvil. If you stretch the saran wrap over it (starting at the nose), be sure to pull tightly enough to keep the sides smooth. If you insert it and let the epoxy set around the groove.....you'll need another finial, another cap, another washer, more epoxy, and a larger "swear jar". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted February 15, 2012 Don/Mike, I use JB Stick for that type of application, it is easier to control than liquid epoxy, and you can get the finial out before it sets, you just make the impression in it and it will set that way. Knead it, stick in in the hole, push in the finial and pull it out. The washer from Mike is a nice touch, I will try that next time. Art Find a flat washer with a large enough hole for the piece...or drill it bigger. Get a threaded metal cap from the plumbing section big enough for the finial. Coat or wrap the finial (thin food wrap / saran wrap) to prevent sticking and mostly fill the cap with epoxy, leaving just enough room for some "squish" displacement. Center the washer over the filled cap and insert the finial. You should have enough displacement for the epoxy to contact the washer, which will stick it to the cap permanently. When it completely sets, you'll have a finial anvil. If you stretch the saran wrap over it (starting at the nose), be sure to pull tightly enough to keep the sides smooth. If you insert it and let the epoxy set around the groove.....you'll need another finial, another cap, another washer, more epoxy, and a larger "swear jar". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chancey77 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 Don/Mike, I use JB Stick for that type of application, it is easier to control than liquid epoxy, and you can get the final out before it sets, you just make the impression in it and it will set that way. Knead it, stick in in the hole, push in the finial and pull it out. The washer from Mike is a nice touch, I will try that next time. Art JB Weld! and Plumbing Cap! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DonBurch Report post Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) Thank you all for your suggestions. In case anyone is interested, I have attached an image to show the difference between the acorn finial and the Sam Browne stud (sold by Tandy) that have been discussed here. This should be a fairly accurate size comparison based on the information I've gathered. Note there is difference in how they are set. If you use a Sam Browne stud, Tandy sells an avil to set it (item #8112-00). I don't know about a manufactured anvil for the acorn stud. Edited February 15, 2012 by DonBurch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gunter Report post Posted February 18, 2012 I always use the Tandy stud shown above, size is same and works great. Where did you find the patterns if I may ask? found the on the forum?? cheers, Gunter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrdabeetle Report post Posted February 19, 2012 I believe that is supposed to be peened like a copper rivet/burr. It is hard to tell from the pic, but does the shank have a slight taper? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Order and Chaos Report post Posted February 19, 2012 Is there any reason why you couldn't go to a tool store (Grainger as an example) and pick up an acorn burr bit the same size (or slightly larger) to use in a drill press to create your anvil? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 19, 2012 Art, Good idea on the epoxy putty! I haven't used it much so it didn't occur to me to try it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
