Correct Needle 88X9 For Singer 241-11

[MartyS]

Yesterday I drove 2 towns over and picked up a singer 241-11. Machine, 2 clutch motors and table $50. It is a big monster of a flatbed, and says in the manual 5000 stitches per minute. I believe it. Am now reading the "how to feather a clutch" posts. In the manual which I downloaded from singer it says that it will take needles type 88x9 in sizes 7 to 21.

I checked the singer site and got no hits on 88x9. But on line it looks like some companies sell needles that say "88x1 needles are also sold under these style numbers 1128,88x1,44x3,DAX1,DAX9,SY1315,SY1361"

So my question is will needles marked with the above numbers work or do I need to find Singer brand needles. Someone told me that the Singers are a little longer than the others. Which size for #69 nylon thread?

I plan to get a cylinder arm machine for most of my leather work, but I just couldn't pass up this deal.

Thanks marty

Edited September 27, 2010 by MartyS

[Wizcrafts]

You have bought a high speed, light duty, garment sewing machine, from the late 1940's, or early 1950's. System 1128 is the standard needle for Singer garment and tailoring machines. You will want to get #18 leather point to sew leather with #69 nylon thread. Otherwise, use the ball point for vinyl and cloth. The largest needle available in system 1128 is #21. That would be suitable for sewing with #92 thread. I don't know if a Singer 241 can handle #92 thread, top and bottom. It doesn't have much pressor foot lift and can only sew about 3/16" of soft material.

Most needle sellers stock Organ, Groz Beckert or Schmetz brands. If you can find Singer needles, thay may be new old stock. Schmetz are highly regarded in the needle trade.

If you are going to sew garment leather, or vinyl with that machine, convert it into a roller foot machine. Also, do yourself a big favor and change the motor pulley to a 2" size, with a correspondingly shorter 3L V-belt. And keep 1 1/2 pints of light weight Lily sewing machine oil in the oil pan!

Note: Garment machines that use system 1128 needles have a shorter vertical stroke than walking foot machines. There is a considerable difference in length to the eye, and in width at the top. Hence, the lower pressor foot clearance on these machines.

Don't try to sew dense veg-tan leather belts on that machine. The maximum stitch length is only 7 to the inch.

Edited September 28, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[MartyS]

Barra, thanks for all that info, As I said i plan to get a cylinder arm for most of my leather work, but for $50 I couldn't pass up the deal.

I have found plenty of roller foot attachment sets for that machine, but when but comes to the 1128 needles, I am not getting any hits for a leather point. I spoke with the guy from atlaslevy, and he said the way he recommends is to use a 16-257 needle and retime the machine to suit the shorter shaft.

The re-time is explained in the manual and doesn't seem too complicated. I guess that I could sharpen regular ball needles, or does a retime sound like good advise? Atlas said he sends those machines in for scrap, as they don't have reverse.

On machines without reverse do you just lift the foot and then drop it back a bit to lock?

I know a lot of people ask a lot of questions about using unsuitable machines, and I am trying not to be one of those, but I need a bit of hands on to know what I want to invest in. Thanks again, Marty

Edited September 28, 2010 by MartyS

[Wizcrafts]

Barra, thanks for all that info, A I said i plan to get a cylinder arm for most of my leather work, but for $50 I couldn't pass up the deal.

I have found plenty of roller foot attachment sets for that machine, but when but comes to the 1128 needles, I am not getting any hits for a leather point. I spoke with the guy from atlaslevy, and he said the way he recommends is to use a 16-257 needle and retime the machine to suit the shorter shaft.

The re-time is explained in the manual and doesn't seem too complicated. I guess that I could sharpen regular ball needles, or does a retime sound like good advise? Atlas said he sends those machines in for scrap, as they don't have reverse.

On machines without reverse do you just lift the foot and then drop it back a bit to lock?

I know a lot of people ask a lot of questions about using unsuitable machines, and I am trying not to be one of those, but I need a bit of hands on to know what I want to invest in. Thanks again marty

I don't see any replies from Barra, so I am guessing you meant to thank me: Wizcrafts.

Ask them if 135x8NW, or 134LR will fit your machine. They have narrow wedge points. I see them on AllBrands and are made by Organ Needles. I can get you a link if you can't get them elsewhere.

I don't recommend re-timing the machine for the wrong needle! You are asking for trouble if you get it wrong.

You don't absolutely have to use leather point needles to sew garment leather. It is recommended, but not set in stone. Just make sure that any needle you use is sharp and has no burrs on the point.

Your machine does have reverse: poor man's reverse. Stop the machine with the needle down, lift the pressor foot with the knee lever, spin the work around 180 degrees, then sew back three stitches. Instant reverse!