new saddle

[steve mason]

Howdy;

I just finished this saddle, a good thing about this one is that it is for me, I am going roping all weekend to I should get some good tracks put in the horn by Sun.

I have done some things that I have not done before on this saddle, it is the first time I have use a Warren Wright tree, first time for the flat plate ring riggin, the first time I have carved water lily's on my saddles, and the first time using Jeremiah Watt's Buck roll forms and string conchos. Let me know what you think, I am looking for open honest constructive criticism.

Thanks much

Steve

Edited March 1, 2008 by steve mason

[AndyKnight]

Steve,

Awsome work

It looks very good. I like the lilys

Andy

[bruce johnson]

Steve,

Neat work as your others. Good job on the lilies. My wife is particularly impressed with the back cinch loops. VERY cool. If you're roping all weekend, I am sure it is gonna look a little different Monday.

[Elton Joorisity]

Another top notch rig as usual Steve. If my lines are even close to your's I'll be happy. Love the lillies too.

[jonwatsabaugh]

Steve,

Your work is exceptional! All of your inovative small details add so much to your saddles as well as the ultra clean finish. From the inovative billit sleeve on your back cinch to the clean flowing lines throughout prove what an accomplished maker you are! I know function is of supreme importance to you, but this example displays much artistic value also. This is a textbook study for all those desiring a much higher level. Keep'em coming, Steve, you are truely an inspiration! I hope I get to meet you in Sheridan this year!

Jon

[Bob]

Steve, very nice workmanship. Clean, nice lines, perfect carving, a nice balance in design (rough out & smooth out with some tooling) It's pleasing to look at. Your stitching is perfect.

I just like it ... are you going to Sheridan?

[kseidel]

Very Hard to criticize a saddle this well made! My compliments on a very nice saddle. Have you made many saddles? How many years?

Very nice slicked edges.

Nice job on the horn cap keeping the dome to the cap and centering the edge.

Inlaid seat has great fit and nice shape.

Great stitching. Hand stitching matches machine stitching. You did a great job at the stitch joints on the rear cinch.

Rigging position is good. I like to keep them a little higher; especially using the 550 ring. I have found it easier to get the rigging too low using this hardware, but I like it best. Too low puts your latigos wrapped tightly to the ring and requires using a shorter cinch which doesn't allow enough space for the horses shoulder to move freely under the cinch ring. I usually have the top of my cut-out inside the ring to be about the bottom of my skirt, and rivet the ring a little higher in the flat plate. I also like to hide the top of my rear rigging dee inder the back jockey.... just makes a cleaner look.

Saddle proportions are great! Great balance with skirt size (length and depth) to the saddle size.

Seat shape looks comfortable and balanced. You should enjoy riding it.

I like to crease all of my edges that are not stitched. It balances the "bordered" look of the stitching as well as packing the edges harder.

Interesting rear cinch design. I've never seen that done before..... Lots of leather, but very well executed.

Your tooling is impeccable! Correct moisture content and perfectly stamped. Nice knife work.

You should stitch your leather keeper behind the buckle on your rope strap. You are too good a craftsman to use a loose keeper.

Two things to try:

1: try doming and polishing your rivets before you set them.

2: I think you can get your rear jockeys tighter. Try using two spikes on each side. One to fit them like you do now about the concho position, and another forward and lower to pull the corner around tighter.

Overall exceptional saddle!!!! Have a great weekend of roping in it!

Keith Seidel

[buffalo]

Wow you do some great work. That is nice.

Buff

[Don101]

Steve great saddle i love the cinch belt carving and the whole look of the saddle and wow the back of the cantle great job, when you do a saddle for your self do you find it difficult to actually decide how you would like it, carving and style and so on, don

[mudman]

Very Nice Work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[esantoro]

Howdy;

I just finished this saddle, a good thing about this one is that it is for me, I am going roping all weekend to I should get some good tracks put in the horn by Sun.

I have done some things that I have not done before on this saddle, it is the first time I have use a Warren Wright tree, first time for the flat plate ring riggin, the first time I have carved water lily's on my saddles, and the first time using Jeremiah Watt's Buck roll forms and string conchos. Let me know what you think, I am looking for open honest constructive criticism.

Thanks much

Steve

Beautiful stitching.

[Fpotter]

Howdy;

I just finished this saddle, a good thing about this one is that it is for me, I am going roping all weekend to I should get some good tracks put in the horn by Sun.

I have done some things that I have not done before on this saddle, it is the first time I have use a Warren Wright tree, first time for the flat plate ring riggin, the first time I have carved water lily's on my saddles, and the first time using Jeremiah Watt's Buck roll forms and string conchos. Let me know what you think, I am looking for open honest constructive criticism.

Thanks much

Steve

Steve,

Outstanding job! really like the lines. I wouldnt worry about your riggin plates being to low , just my oppinion for what its worth, based on thousands of miles in the saddle and thousands of cattle roped. Its hard to keep your flow from your front skirt line to your riggin plate line and get that riggin down where it needs to be ( somthing im struggling with ) in order to pull down and not in. if your plate is to high you will get hot spots from your skirt edges.and your plate wont pull right, unfortunatly its hard to make your lines flow the lower you go. I really like the rings you used for your plate, i have used Wallsal in the past, who did you contact to get your hardware, Dale? I am going to swtitch to the 550 ring exclusivly because of the extra depth.

your tooling is perfect. I couldnt stamp a flower to save my life so i am envious of your talent, Ive decided to learn how to build functional gear first and then make it pretty. It might be a while .

You seem to have pulled it off, a beautifull piece of functional art.

[TracyMoss]

Very nice Saddle, I admire your work and craftsmanship. Thank You for your contribution in keeping the standard high.

[gtwister09]

Steve,

You've stated several times that function is most important but you slipped some great artistic talent into this saddle as well. The flank cinch and billet sleeve are rather unique.... I like the look of them a lot. The combination is quite striking. The saddle overall has some nice ultra clean lines and a nicely balanced design of rough out with some strategic tooling. Great execution in carving the water lilies. The inlaid seat adds to the overall execution of the design as well as the stitching throughout. WOW.....nice workmanship all over!

Regards,

Ben

[steve mason]

Howdy;

thank you all for your kind comments and especially for your constructive criticism, I am here to learn and better my rigs.

I'll do my best to reply to all that need one here, this much typing will make my brain hurt, Dyslexics Untie!

Jon;

everything you said to me I would just have to reply to by saying Dido (which by the way was my speech at my wedding, my new bride said everything that needed to be said so I followed with Dido)

I am very impressed with your work. I would look forward to meeting you at Sheridan, I will be the big fat Canadian with a moustache wandering around, an easier way to find me might be if you are at Kings party to ask one of the bartenders in the rope shop to point me out, you would want to talk to Gary Or Dan, they usually tend the bars at the party, they will be able to pick me out.

Bob;

see you at Sheridan

Keith;

First off, thank you much for all your comments, it is a real treat to get some tips from a maker of your talent and caliber, we are all very fortunate to have you here.

I will give you a little bio on myself, I have been building since 1989, I spent a year at kings, half of that time in the repair shop and the later half with John King, I then returned to Alberta and have been building saddles here. I have received much tutelage/advise/friendship from a local maker here whom I respect to the highest degree, Matt Eberle, I also spent 2 1/2 years working with John Vissor in his shop, we we building the Ray Hunt Saddles for Dale Harwood, this experience was one of the greatest i will have in my life, between what I learned from John and Dale was worth millions in my books. Since then I have been back in High River, Alberta building out home based shop. I have taken summers off for the last 8 years to guide fly fisherman, I an not planning to guiding as much and focusing more on my saddle business as I know it suffered because of the fishing. I am trying to build the business and get some more orders.

I think you are on right about the ring position in the plate itself, I will move it up on the next one, the rear dee could be a little higher to get the jockeys to cover it, this has been a problem area with me. The next time I do this rig pattern I will be adjusting it. An interesting thing about this 550 ring compared to what I normally use, 777's, this saddle is made on a tree from a maker that I have not used before, the front bar pads are a lot shallower the the tree I use regularly. my 777's are always set about 6 1/4" to 6 1/2" below the front bar pads, on this saddle the bottom of the rings are about 7 3/8" below the bar tips yet when I saddle up the latigo wraps are in the same place as they were on my last saddle with 777's. i could tell this by the marks on the wear leathers on my 5 star pad. I typically send out saddles with a 32" cinch.

I have never creased the edges on a saddle before, but I may give it try in the future. I quite often with run a double cut border or beader whichever you want to call a plain smootout saddle or on ruffouts. here is a photo of a smooth out rig with just the double cut border.

I agree this helps the look and flow of plain saddles, in hindsight I with I did that to this saddle.

I have only been using this cinch design for a little over a year now, I first on a saddle made by Long & Dewey, I changed the pattern to suit me some more and have been happy with it, I do like the leather consumption because with my parts layout and cutting I find it easier to get the 3 smaller pieces for this flank the I did finding the one large piece I need for my old flank pattern, even though it uses more leather it seems to work better for me.

"You should stitch your leather keeper behind the buckle on your rope strap" are you referring to how I stitched the loop on one side then tucked the other side in and brass tacked it, could you please elaborate a little for me.

I also wonder if you could explain you method of doming the rivets before you install them, I was talking to Ross Ellis yesterday and neither of us could get it right in our heads, if you could explain a little more I would appreciate it.

I will definitely try your tip about the back jockeys, I agree they could be tighter.

On our way to Sheridan this year we are planning to come through Cody, I would like to drop by for a visit if possible, would that be a problem and would you be around.

I'm pretty sure by the end of that trip my wife will be pretty tired of saddle talk. LOL

don101;

to answer you question, usually what dictates how a saddle for myself will look is time, on this rig I had planned to make it a full 1/2 breed flower carve, but them I sold the saddle I was using so I had to get this one finished ASAP. As with most makers time is always an issue so I am pretty sure I'll be riding ruff outs for a long time to come.

fpotter;

good to hear from you, glad your on the site. Getting Harwood hardware is a different for me that you since I am in Canada, but I believe if you call Dale you will get the hardware from him or he will get you in touch with Twain.

gtwister09;

thanks for the kind comments, in regards to the function aspect of a saddle, that is my number one priority, then balanced lines and clean work. In my opinion if the rig does not function proper, I don't care how nice the finish or carving or even how nice the lines are that saddle is still a piece of crap. I'm sure we all have seen saddles that are the prettiest thing we have ever seen, but you could ride the seat across the yard let alone spend some long days is it. I do know makers that I have met over the years where pretty was more important that function, not in my shop, and I'm sure not in yours either.

I new my brain would hurt, this took almost to hours to reply.

Thanks Again for all your input and tips.

Steve

[Cowboy Crafts Online]

Steve,

Great looking saddle. Keep up the good work and the posting of such nice saddles.

Ashley

[kseidel]

Steve, How was that saddle to ride this weekend? My experience is a bit limited regarding Warren's trees, and I wonder what you think of their performance in use. I have built on a few, and find the quality of construction very good; however, warren and I disagree on a few fundamentals of horse fit.

Doming and polishing rivets: use an old dull drive punch or a small piece of rigid tubing to fit over the shank of the rivet. drive the head of the rivet into your doming tool or a dapping block or whatever else you like the shape of. ( I use a spot setter) Then polish the rounded head on a buffer. Then set as usual, skipping the doming process at the last. Use a piece of skirting leather between the polished rivet and the anvil to avoid scratching. I can send pics if you want, but will need to send from the shop where there are more pics.

As for the leather keeper, Stitch the one side the same as you are doing. Then fit the loop to the strap it will hold and hand stitch the other side to match the first. Then you can block the loop tighter and it will hold its shape better and keep your buckle tighter. It doesn't take much longer, and the result is much more professional. It is easiest to hand stitch the closed loop with a hook or "jerk" awl.

Using the two spike trick to stretch rear jockeys on really helps get out that last little extra space. Try it, I think you will like the result for such a small effort.

Alan Dewey worked for me a few years ago, good saddler. He's working for Hamleys now I believe. Since you mention it, I remember him showing me that rear cinch pattern, but I had forgotten it and never tried it.

Plesae come by the shop in May, I would love to see you. All are welcome. It is always hectic that time of year, but I will make time for you. I will be going over to Sheridan Thursday morning, so come by Wednesday if you can.

Greet Ross for me. I haven't seen him in a couple of years.

Your saddle work is very nice and I would be proud to employ you in my shop..... should you ever have the notion.

Best regards,

Keith

[steve mason]

thanks for the tips Keith, I will give them all a try, I appreciate your time and help, look forward to meeting you this spring.

Steve

I sent you a PM

Edited March 4, 2008 by steve mason

[Todd]

Hey Steve

Great looking saddle. I really like the lillys. As much as it is really popular Sheridan is getting a little old for me so it was nice to see someone trying something different.

Todd

[Luke Hatley]

Steve that is a fine looking Saddle......

I would like to know what type of sewing machine you used and what size thread did you sew with.

[steve mason]

howdy Luke;

I sew my saddles with a Pearson, I use 346 on the top and 277 on bottom. If you are interested in a Pearson machine give gomersall a shout, I think he has one for sale, you won't find a better machine for saddles.

Steve that is a fine looking Saddle......

I would like to know what type of sewing machine you used and what size thread did you sew with.