Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This is a reconstruction of a 'flacket' from the Mary Rose. The back is flatter than the front so it hangs comfortably against the body. I wet-moulded the leather around two wooden formers then double-stitched them together. It's sealed inside for water-tightness.

It's about nine inches high.

post-9677-0-61763300-1422736360_thumb.jp

post-9677-0-41244700-1422736383_thumb.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice. Did you make the formers by hand or cnc? I've done similar but used damp sand to form the shape.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use barley to form mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is very nice indeed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made the formers with a saw, files and sandpaper.

post-9677-0-26466700-1422742762_thumb.jp

Edited by Brushpopper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice! I am interested in knowing how you sealed the inside, since I've seen many talk about versions of "food safe" sealing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am curious about the sealer too. I researched this a little bit a while ago and the answers about "food safe" seemed to be don't ask too many questions.

Also wanted to add, the flask is awsome.

Edited by electrathon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comments. The right thing to use is brewer's pitch but it's hard to find. I'm still looking and maybe I'll be lucky. In the meantime I use a non-toxic resin. Tina's suggestion looks good.

Skeeter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. I like this method of forming because it ensures the sides are flat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I like is that the 'back' is flatter, to me this seems like a much more likely production method than the filling and stamping. Very nice :)

What about bees wax for sealing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. The distended front and flatter back of the original flacket from the Mary Rose could only have been made this way, with wooden formers.

Beeswax is fine though it's better if resin is in there too.

post-9677-0-36700100-1422984806_thumb.jp

Edited by Brushpopper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

very cool!

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I spent a lot of time talking to the chemist associated with the max clr epoxy resin today. His answer is their product does meet the food safe definition for cold liquids if all of the rules are followed exactly. The mixing has to be done very well, then transferred to another cup and mixed again. It will take at least two coats, less than 3 hours apart. As it is curing you need to be constantly rotating the canteen to be sure of proper consistency. You have to wait for the product to fully cure (many, many days).

So there are a lot of rules to follow and if you do it wrong it will not be food safe. But if you do it correct, you will be able to safely be able to use the product. This is an improvement from what I found a couple years ago when I was basically finding that most people were claiming food safe as long as you did not really want the answers tot he questions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The sealing itself, you pour in molten resin? I've hotwaxed things before and I always ended up submerging the whole item because of all the blotches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The resin is 2 part epoxy. You mix it and pour it inside, rotate and turn to coat all places. Pour out the excess, keep turning till it cures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love the flat back. I had done some research into making one but this is the first one I have seen with a flat side. Very nice!

Electrathon, is that a specific product that MAx CLR advises use on a project or there whole product line in general?

Edited by TRHLeather

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comments. The right thing to use is brewer's pitch but it's hard to find. I'm still looking and maybe I'll be lucky. In the meantime I use a non-toxic resin. Tina's suggestion looks good.

Skeeter

$20 per ~pound

http://jas-townsend.com/brewers-pitch-p-373.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really Nice work Brushpopper

I have been using a Leather Water Bottle for more than 15 Years. I bought it from a Mate, it is sealed with Beeswax and I have never has any issues with it from a food safe perspective. I have never put anything but Water in it and store it empty with the Stopper out.

regards Jacko

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is the leather flask that I made, using a stainless-steel canteen and a wooden stopper. It was the very first piece that I ever made. And although it is not very pretty, it looks rather authentic and I never put anything in it except 750 ml of the finest Tequila.

Brushpopper, your stitching is immaculate. How do you do it? Even today I cannot achieve anything close to your work. What's your secret?

post-46246-0-56625300-1423519568_thumb.j

Edited by Harry Marinakis

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...