Western Holster Question

[BanjoMan]

I am currently working on my first western style holster and I am using Stolhman's holster book for templates, tips, etc. The farther I get into this project, the more questions I have about how to do certain things when making this style of holster. I am used to making pancake style holsters using two flat pieces of leather and wet molding to fit the weapon. This is my first experience with using one piece and bending it around to meet itself. I guess the main issue I've had is my tooling stretched and became distorted when I folded the holster for assembly. HOW DO YOU PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING?! Obviously, you have to do your tooling and carving when the leather is still laid out flat. And you must moisten the leather to allow it to bend during holster assembly. What is the big secret on how to moisten and bend a piece of leather without compromising your tooling? Another big mystery to me is how one would go about antiquing a holster like this. Same as with carving, I would think that the leather would need to be flat in order to apply antique properly. If that is the case, then you would apply clear lac (or equal) then apply antique paste. The problem is, once you apply clear lac to the leather, wouldn't it prevent moisture from penetrating the leather when you got ready to bend the holster prior to stitching? I've seen holsters such as this with some pretty intricate carving and it blows my mind how this is done. I know it's probably just a trick of the trade, but it's one that I don't know! If anyone can shed some light on this, I would greatly appreciate it. If anyone is familiar with making this type of holster, I would really like to know the steps you take as far as carving and tooling, assembly and finishing (what you do, when). Thanks!

[ChuckBurrows]

And you must moisten the leather to allow it to bend during holster assembly

I generally use 8/9 oz for my western holsters and seldom if ever wet them to bend them through the loops - if the rig is designed/built right there's no need. As for bending the tube over to stitch the main seam the tooling should stop at or just before the vertical centerline - seldom does it wrap around the back.

A suggestion - go over to Will Ghormley's site and checkout his tutorials - also depending on whether you want to build pre-1900 period styles or not, I would highly recommend his patterns. I also offer a a four hour video on building period (pre-1900) style holster.

Stohlman's book is good but is really designed for 20th Century styles of western holsters and they are a different critter in several ways from pre-1900 gear.

As for antiquing I reckon you mean the commercial paste type stuff? Can't help since I never use it or laq since I use only period (i.e. pre-1900) finshes/materials (although in my video I do discuss gluing the main seam and using some "modern" top coats since the video was filmed with the CAS Shooter/Builders in mind as well as the re-enactors). On the other hand all of my work is aged to look like lightly used to well used originals and this article from the Leather Crafter's Journal by one of the best at this "art" is a good start on the methods used:

http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/aging-leather-zurl.jpg

[Treed]

I generally use 8/9 oz for my western holsters and seldom if ever wet them to bend them through the loops - if the rig is designed/built right there's no need. As for bending the tube over to stitch the main seam the tooling should stop at or just before the vertical centerline - seldom does it wrap around the back.

A suggestion - go over to Will Ghormley's site and checkout his tutorials - also depending on whether you want to build pre-1900 period styles or not, I would highly recommend his patterns. I also offer a a four hour video on building period (pre-1900) style holster.

Stohlman's book is good but is really designed for 20th Century styles of western holsters and they are a different critter in several ways from pre-1900 gear.

As for antiquing I reckon you mean the commercial paste type stuff? Can't help since I never use it or laq since I use only period (i.e. pre-1900) finishes/materials (although in my video I do discuss gluing the main seam and using some "modern" top coats since the video was filmed with the CAS Shooter/Builders in mind as well as the re-enactors). On the other hand all of my work is aged to look like lightly used to well used originals and this article from the Leather Crafter's Journal by one of the best at this "art" is a good start on the methods used:

http://www.wrtcleath...eather-zurl.jpg

As Chuck has stated check out Will Ghormley's site as he has some great aids in building some of the holsters from patterns he sells. I can contest that the holsters video and knife making video that Chuck sells are a must for making western holsters. The video covers the making of holsters, but has great information in general leather working techniques and process. Chuck is an artist, and has been an inspiration to me and many other western holster makers. Check out Chucks site Wild Rose Trading Company .

I am not an authority and still trying to learn the craft but this is some of the steps that I use

Pattern, layout and cut, tool (backing to prevent stretch),oil, dye (if used), lac or resist, antique.

Then I do the final assembly. In the final assembly if I am using extra heavy leather and need assistance in bending the leather I normally wet with a sponge the inside of the holster body along the fold line and not the outside of a tooled holster. As Chuck stated the tooling should stop short of the vertical fold line.

Bobby R