Need Help With This Belt

[nGIN40]

Hello all I am new to the leather craft world. I have been reading this forum for a few weeks and have learned so much already. I thank you all for that but here is my question. I want to make a Radio strap for myself like the one I have pictured. I have read so many tips on dyes, stains,paints etc. My question is I'm not sure what type of leather I should go with? Should I buy pre-cut black latigo straps? should I get pre-cut herman oak straps? The strap will be exposed to heat and water I'm just not sure whats best any help would be apprecited thanks in advance.

[Cyberthrasher]

Are you going to stamp/tool it? You'll probably want to stick to Veg-Tan for tooling and then make sure you use a good water resistant finish topped off with a good conditioner. You can get some good Herman Oak and you'll be happy with the leather. Springfield Leather will cut out just what you need if you give them a call. Since you're learning (I'm assuming), I would get a couple and maybe a bag of scraps to practice on while you're at it. The girls there will get you setup right. Just tell them what you're trying to do and they'll make sure you have what you need to get it going. If you don't want to tool it, some latigo might be the way to go. I'm not real experienced with it, but I'm pretty sure I read that it resists water.

[lightingale]

Hi,

If you want to stamp words like in the photo you posted, you'll want to go with Hermann Oak leather, or any vegetable tanned leather. You'll want to read up on how to case and stamp, and buy a set of letter stamps. There are a few things you can do with the leather to protect it from heat and water, as long as you're not submersing it or roasting it over the fire.

Someone on the forum recently posted a video about a waterproofing agent involving wax and turpentine(?) and something else. I haven't tried it, although it looks like it would do wonders to protect against water.

[nGIN40]

Thanks for the replies. Yes I planned on tooling it, so I guess the herman oak is the way to go. I've been reading and watching video's for a few weeks and I think I'm ready to try it out (well I mean I'm brave enough to finally dive in) . I already bought a few pounds of scraps and have been practicing tooling on those (now that I'm tooling I've been bitten by the bug). I also plan on buying a few straps because of mistakes cause i'm sure I'll have some. I will have to search for that video about waterproofing.

Thanks again for the replies

Manny

[Dwight]

Manny, . . . what are you going to do with the strap?

What size is the strap, . . . long vs wide?

That can make a difference.

May God bless,

Dwight

[nGIN40]

Its a firefighting radio strap. It holds my walkie talkie. It will be used by me in conditions of High heat at times and sometimes be expose to water or the elements. The strap pictured was purchased about 2 years ago and has held up well. I just wish I knew their secrets so I could reproduce it for myself. I want the pride of saying I made my own around the Firehouse.

[Dwight]

From what I could make out of it, . . . I would make it from 8 or 9 oz vegetable tanned leather, . . . it looks to be about 1 to 1 1/4 inch wide. You can go to a Tandy leather shop and get a 2 inch belt blank or a 3 inch strap blank used for saddle work.

That piece can then be split into the proper size blank you need, . . . and you won't have to buy a full side or double shoulder.

Stay away from the latigo leather, . . . if you want to paint it the same colors.

If I were making you one like it, . . . I would first impress the letters very heavily using an arbor press, . . . and tool in the logo. I would then dye the whole thing black using Feibings pro oil black dye and thinner about a 2 thinner / 1 dye ratio. Next I would paint the red letters with Tandy Eco flo paint, . . . then come back with their same paint in white for the outline work.

If you have never done that, . . . it is TEDIOUS and nerve wracking, . . . to say the least.

I would then finish the strap with an old fashioned finish, . . . beeswax and neatsfoot oil. It would take at least 4 applications, . . . and can be a pain to get it right, . . . but with some elbow grease, . . . it would look every bit as good as the one you have, . . . it is darn near waterproof, . . . and if it gets a bit scuffed up, . . . you have the finish right there, . . . it's kinda like polishing your shoes, . . . just a whole bunch harder.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited January 28, 2013 by Dwight

[nGIN40]

Thanks for the advice Dwight. The strap is 1 1/4 wide. I was thinking of using angelus acrylic paint because from what I read it holds up better your thoughts?

[Cyberthrasher]

Thanks for the advice Dwight. The strap is 1 1/4 wide. I was thinking of using angelus acrylic paint because from what I read it holds up better your thoughts?

I would only use acrylics for stuff that doesn't have an available dye color. The acrylic paint just sits on top of the leather and can have the possibility of peeling and cracking. You're pretty much going to have to use it for the white, but use dye wherever possible since it is absorbed into the leather.

[nGIN40]

Ok so how would I dye in the small areas of the letters and symbols? A paint brush? do I not dye those parts with the black dye? I've read so much stuff I'm a little confused. I am for certain going to practice on scrap first before I try anything on a tooled project

[Cyberthrasher]

Yes

it's a little tedious, but the outcome will be worth it. On stuff like this, I usually use a brush to dye my artwork whatever colors it's going to be and then brush around it with black about an inch or two away. This creates a buffer zone for me. Then, I come over the rest of the area with a rag to dye the rest and just overlap the previously dyed black spot a little bit to help blend it in. By creating that buffer zone with the brush, you won't have to worry as much about hitting the non-black stuff with your rag. I usually use the blue shop towels for this stuff, but you can use an old sock or t-shirt too. If you take a look at my facebook page, virtually all of the guitar straps there were done that way, except for the "gunslinger" which was just airbrushed.

If you were to dye those letters and symbols black, they would be black. Unless you're using acrylic over them, then you may have a chance of covering the black dye.

Edited January 28, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[WinterBear]

Just FYI, you can get a pre-cut strap 50" in length and in varying widths from 1/2 to 3" from Springfield Leather. 1-1/4" runs $9.

http://springfieldleather.com/18891/Boot%2CFrontlaceHrdslKneeHi%2CSz-6/

If you plan on any stitching, the Thread Exchange sells Kevlar and Nomex in various weights in small amounts.

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=TTE

[Dwight]

Thanks for the advice Dwight. The strap is 1 1/4 wide. I was thinking of using angelus acrylic paint because from what I read it holds up better your thoughts?

I've never used it, . . . what little painting I do, . . . it's with EcoFlo, . . . and not much of that.

I think I might be tempted, . . . at least I would try it, . . . first dye the whole thing to the color of red you want, . . . then go back like Cyberthrasher was saying, . . . with a sock or towel, . . . blacks cover stuff up pretty good (you don't need to ask me how I know that, either), . . . but again the Achille's heel is in the white.

That would just be "Tedium Infinitim" for me, . . . the white painting.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Cyberthrasher]

I've never used it, . . . what little painting I do, . . . it's with EcoFlo, . . . and not much of that.

I think I might be tempted, . . . at least I would try it, . . . first dye the whole thing to the color of red you want, . . . then go back like Cyberthrasher was saying, . . . with a sock or towel, . . . blacks cover stuff up pretty good (you don't need to ask me how I know that, either), . . .

Yeah, I usually cover the entire project with my lightest color first. But, this isn't always the best tactic. Sometimes it's just easier to wipe on your dye then it is to brush it. So by wiping it over the whole thing I think there's less chance of any inconsistencies showing through under the black. But, with such small areas, I think you'd be fine either way.

[nGIN40]

I would like to Thank everyone for their advice and help. This forum is great glad I found it.

[Cyberthrasher]

This forum is great glad I found it.

Me Too!! I wouldn't know any of this stuff I'm rambling on about without this forum

[nGIN40]

Hey I just wanted to share with you guys my first attempt at a radio strap here it is. I'm still having trouble with outlining the letters but I'm hoping to get better. Thanks for all your advice.

[Cyberthrasher]

I don't know what you're worried about. That looks GREAT from where I'm standing!!!

[nGIN40]

Thank you. I couldn't have done it without your help and dwights . The outline in this one is pretty good I have since made others and the outlines aren't as impressive on some. It is tedious work like you said and I'm beginning to believe its the time of day that I work on them when some come out better than others.

[Cyberthrasher]

I'm beginning to believe its the time of day that I work on them when some come out better than others.

Yeah, that's definitely a fact on some of that stuff!! Sometimes I need more coffee, other times I need to calm down a little and just grab a beer to sip back on. There's even a lot of days where I say screw it and just lay down and take a nap - no sense in forcing it if things are just going to get messed up

[Barlaam1]

I am in the same boat as you. I just completed my first radio strap a week ago. I also made a couple sets of suspenders. For dying it black I vinegrooned all the pieces then painted using Eco flow paints. My background on my letters was white and I found that if you paint the whole letter and background first the paint on the letter really popped. After paint was dry I oiled with neatsfoot oil. And then did the mop and glow/water to seal it.

I never thought there were so many steps but to get the edges to look good you really have spend some time. I have learnedly more good info from this site then the guy at my tandy shop. Anytime I have a question I come here first. It is a great resource to make sure your end product is the best it can be.