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Lamplog

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About Lamplog

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/11/1957

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  • Website URL
    http://www.granitebuckaroo.com
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sandwich NH
  • Interests
    Starting Colts and raisin foundation quarter horses, cattle, ranch ropin, saddle building and making tack. My daughter.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    braiding, saddle building ,tack repair
  • Interested in learning about
    leather in general, carving, saddle building, saddle tree making,

Recent Profile Visitors

6,472 profile views
  1. I have a saddle that I have been asked to restore, it is a Whitman Park saddle style no 70 with a No. 6 tree. The customer has the original catalog which shows the saddle and identifies it as using selected pigskin with nickel trimmings. We are going to rebuild the saddle from tree up, provided that the tree is sound, and so far it seems to be. The customer has asked me to restore it to as close to its original stature as possible. I am not sure where to get pigskin of this type or if anyone even makes it. The flaps are doubled and stitched, the leather is approximately 6-8oz so 12-16 total. Would anyone know of any sources? I would guess vegetable tanned or possibly bark tanned? Thank You, Tom
  2. I know this is a really old post but in doing research on another saddle, I believe I have identified this saddle fyi and future reference. This to my knowledge is a Whitman Full Jockey and Park with detachable flaps and used a center fire rigging. This had there no 9 tree. They were made with pigskin and nickel hardware. The saddle sold for $75.00 at that time. This information came from the Mehlbach Saddle Co. Catalog circa 1919. factory located in Newark, NJ. Thank You, Tom
  3. Hi Troy and Bob, Thank You, I was pretty sure there would not be but it is nice to have assurance that it would, especially from the likes of you two gentlemen! Have a good day! Tom
  4. I have a saddle I am working on for a gal that is really concerned about weight. She is not going to rope with this saddle, so I would not have that stress involved. Here is my question. Is there any advantage to using a flat plate in place of a normal inskirt rigging ring. Would any of you feel that there is a problem using a flat plate in a inskirt rig? I have seen a few guys use flat plates, so I am wondering if any of ya all here have used em? I think the skirt would have to be lowered like a flat plate and to me that would give a little more surface for the skirts to bear on. It is a little different look. Thanks, Tom
  5. I am pretty sure Rod & Denise Nikkel. www.rodnikkel.com would be more than happy to help you with any questions you might have about trees for gaited horses or any other for that fact. I have had some inquiry's about gaited saddles as we have a few around these parts. I am not sure what saddle makers you have talked too, but there are a bunch here that are more than qualified, and some of em could make a saddle ta fit a camel if ya wanted. Thanks Tom
  6. Great looking saddle Darcy, you certainly give me something to aspire too! I have looked at Steve's Swade and think its a pretty nice marriage. I would think a Mason Swade would give the credit where its due. The tree will certainly get some following. Tom
  7. Hi Folks, Does anyone here know of a Custom Saddle Maker in northwest Nebraska by the name of Frank Christensen. I have a saddle that a customer brought to the shop yesterday and she would like to sell it. Its a custom made partial flower carved with a waffle stamp. The swell is laced very nicely and the craftsmanship is very good. The saddle is in very good shape. I will have some pictures later in the week as I get it cleaned up. Any information on him would be greatly appreciated. She would like to sell it and have me make her a new one on a wade tree. Thanks, Tom
  8. Howdy I was wondering if I could get some help on making a pair of armitas from you? I seen one of your posts and you had posted some very nice armitas in kind of the style i was thinking of. This will be my first time so im clueless about alot of it! Thank you Godbless

  9. High Michael, I have worked with both the twisted and braided. I have never had a twisted come apart yet but I feel better about the braided ones knowing that it is not going to be a problem for one of my customers down the road. I do charge more for a braided core because of the time factor. I noticed when I was buying my hides in, that the rawhide tends to be a lot stiffer than my homemade rawhide (not limed). The cores from that store bought rawhide is pretty stiff. I tend to side with Allen on this in that how stiff does it have to be. The function of the bosal is not a matter of putting the horse's head between his knees! Relief off pressure comes from the release of the rein and the weight of the heel knot. I have found that at least on my own horses that I tend to like the cores being a little softer. I did not make them that way at the start because I did not make my own rawhide. One thing I have noticed is that if you are braiding right over the core without any tape or filler that can absorb moisture such as in your build up of the nose button it puts moisture back into the rawhide and seems to keep it wet all the time, especially in my part of the country where we usually have more water than we know what to do with. I am not sure where you are but location does have something to do with it. If you live in a dry part of the country you probably are not going to have a problem with this. I know that when some folks come in here from out west they like using a reata because of the moisture in the air and they pretty much do not have to temper their reata. I do not braid my cores with anything but a wet string, water only, if you use saddle or plain soap I find it really makes for a soft core. I use it when braiding over the core and on my nose button but not the core. I make all my cores 4 plait and adjust the size of the string for the core. Let em cure good in the sun or here I put em in the same room as my wood cookstove and they come around pretty quick. Thanks Allen and Jake for the insight. Allen I would like to see your contraption for braiding a reata. I hope to make a few next winter, if time permits. Tom
  10. This dvd is spoken for. Thank You, Tom
  11. I try to be somewhat of a traditionalist when I can. So I do not want to take anything away from some of those styles. I made this one up, It is easy to build, you do not need a welder, and it was fairly cheap. Here are the materials I used. 1 - hydraulic salon chair - local craigslist 10.00-50.00. - alot of them have a seal gone .15 cents at the hardware store and some oil. 2 - 1 1/2" boiler pipe flange 5.00 ya might need to make an adapter to bolt to the salon chair ram to. It comes with a universal metal base that connects to the chair. The rams are 1.000" in dia. I just ran 4 bolts with washers and bolted to the pipe flange, would like to maybe weld this together at some point. This could be all one piece and welded solid about 17 to 18" total. 1- 1 1/2" x 12" pipe extension 7.50 1- 1 1/2" x 3" pipe extension 3.50 1- 1 1/2" coupler 3.50 2- 1/2 or 5/8 eyebolts and nuts 5.00 misc- bolts, nuts, screws 2- 2 x 8 x 24 pieces of lumber I used hardwood I had here. 1 - 2 x 6 x 12-16 piece of lumber. should be able to make this for under a $100.00 Optional Panavise 400 heavy duty base 30.00 Panavise 437 1" heavy duty fixture head 20.00 might want a couple of these to mount on different saddle mounts. What I have now works great for a drawdown. Like I said its real easy to break straps on this thing. It will provide enough compression that it might be possible to break a tree. So careful! One very small issue is that when you go to release it it will pump up about a inch before it comes down, applying additional torque, that is when I have broken a strap. I started out with 1" 15oz straps. Went to 1 3/4" and would like to make a pair that are doubled up, for what reason I am not sure, might have to strap down a elephant or jack up my truck with it some day! I really like it because I can stretch my stirrups on it and shape them also. Just wet em, twist and give her a pump or two and leave em for a day or two, can even do it while you are working on another part of the saddle. I just have a strap that I run through the stirrups and it puts the right shape on them, even gives them just a bit of angle if ya mount the strap on the inside of the stirrup bottom. I would like to make a saddle base with the stirrup slots cut out the same as on the tree and so I do not have to use a saddle or tree I am working on. You could probably use this with the panavise but would need to make some type of strap that runs through the saddle base and then to the eyebolts. I am thinking that I will buy another fixture head and mount a pair of hinges and a turnbuckle that will attach to the top of the stirrup slots from the inside. I think I saw a picture of one somewhere but it is not mine. Also I would replace the black plastic nut on the panavise with maybe a ratchet welded on there not that you would want to put a lot of torque on it but just to make it easier to tighten and loosen. Whats nice though is that you can have a few fixture heads on one panavise saddle base and swap them out, so you only need one hydro stand. If ya all have some better ideas, I would like to hear or seem em that would be great. Like I said this was quick and easy and I did not put a lot of thought into it, but I would like to maybe improve on it sum, so all ideas are welcome. Also it has a rubber piece around the base so it slides around my shop pretty easy. Hope some of this helps! So total for the whole deal you should not have to spend more than 150.00.
  12. Hi Dennis, We met over to Frannie's last summer when Bryan Neubert was there. I have one of Rod & Denise's trees here that I have started, they make a great tree. It looks like it might not be in your budget but if I can help in any way, give me a shout. I think there is an outfit somewhere out in the midwest that makes or imports a austrailian type police saddle that fits drafts. I have a gal over here in Ashland that is thinking about selling a black wade draft saddle that she has. I think the price is up there but she wants lighter wade and its only a few years old. Maybe we will run into you this spring when we can see over the snow banks. Tom Lamprey
  13. Hi Hank, Good luck getting started in the saddle business. Here is a picture of one I built. It is a hydraulic salon chair base $15.00 from local craigslist. I just concocted some pipe 1-1/2" to attach to the base or get it welded. and made the wood saddle rack from some hardwood I had. I think it ran me about 50.00 total. I just used 2 - 1 1/2 inch straps on each side. Have to be careful cause you can pump it up enough to break the straps. I like it cause I can work on something from a chair and it will swivel and stop, has a brake in it, and it spins 360. I am working on another that will have a panavise in it, so I can sew my cantles a little easier. I could take some more pics if you are interested. Tom
  14. I will consider any offers on this or would consider trade for Dale Harwood Saddle Making DVD. Thank You, Tom
  15. I have the 3 dvd set "The Art of Saddle Making" for sale. I purchased this last fall and have watched it a few times. It is in great shape. $300.00 and I will include the shipping for that. Thank You, Tom
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