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Constabulary

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About Constabulary

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    Restoring vintage Singer sewing machines.

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  1. The teeth are important for feeding the material so thats normal and in the nature of this machine. Some folks but shrink tube on the foot but as you can imagine this can cause issues with feeding the material.
  2. The needle system for the 45K´s is 328 or 214x2. There are several different leather needle tips available depending on what seam appearance you want to achieve. You can download a Groz Becket brochure here. They have a YT video as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8HqAFtSPFg I run a Singer 45D91 (German made version of your machine but with reverse) and I´m using it for needle size 160 (metric) up to 230 (metric).
  3. I think so but I only can guess - I assume the Bell Crank Lever is worn down or broke. See parts diagram in the above linked manual / parts list. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82167-feed-motion-bell-crank-lever-singer-29k412818.html OR - there is an issue with the lifting lever. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82152-lifting-lever-for-heavy-work-singer-29k.html-` I'm not sure If I can see it from the rear side. The lever should stick out here (arrow 1) and should lift the part (arrow 2) when cranking the machine. Should look like in the 2nd picture (my 29K71 machine).
  4. I have edited my last above post. clockwise is correct - the plunger engages / disengages the hand wheel when winding the bobbin. BTW - here is a parts list and manual for the 29K71 - it is very similar to the 29K58 with just some minor differences. Hope this helps. (direct download link) https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=172617 ======== EDIT: Here is missing a thumb screw. Should be this one: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/ss469w-eccentric-thumb-screw-singer-29k.html
  5. this plunger knob is missing on the hand wheel of your machine https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/nn98r-plunger-nut-singer-29k.html I´m also not sure if the paddle shaped spring on the lower end of the needle bar is present - please check that. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/46045-8656-check-spring-singer-29k.html Above two parts have nothing to do with foot movement but both needed when you want a properly working machine. You have not posted a picture of the rear side of the machine and have not answered in which direction you turn the hand wheel. Just trying to figure issues before you start removing parts. ====================== The 180° rotation of the pulley usually is an issue when some one restored / took apart a machine and did not put it back together properly. Yes IF the pulley is the issue it is the one you mentioned. It usually is held in place by 2 set screws and 1 tapered pin so you have to figure which side is the narrower end and hammer it out from this end. It sometimes is hard to tell so be careful if you hammer it from the wrong side it will be even tighter. However there is also a cam inside the machine that drives the hook (basically) and one on the left side that controls the feed motion ring. So IF someone restored it / took it appart no one know if he put back on the cams the right way. So there is a lot of guessing.
  6. Please note the above post. The gib and the frame have wedges. This is how the stitch length adjuster and the gib should be installed.
  7. hard to tell from the videos what is going on. But I wonder why the bell crank lever is seemingly not properly moving. I only can guess as I´m not in front of the machine. Could be that the bell crank lever that is moving the foot is worn or broke. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82167-feed-motion-bell-crank-lever-singer-29k412818.html it is playing together with the feed motion ring. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82053-feed-motion-ring-slide-bar-singer-29k.html When the FMR is mowing up and down the BCL is moving the presser foot bar > feeding the material. But again please post good clear pictures of your machine so we can see is something probably is out of alignment or missing and straighten the foot pressure adjuster. EDIT: What I also noticed is that the stitch length adjuster is not correctly installed. The arrow on the small squared frame has to point upwards and the gib has to be positioned correctly as well (I´l post pictures later)
  8. Looks like a 29K71 or which one is it? The presser foot looks kinda odd. Has it teeth on the bottom side? The foot pressure adjuster looks bent (see red arrow in picture). Furthermore looks like the stitch length adjuster is set to a short stitch. In which direction do you turn the hand wheel? Have you read the manual? Please post good clear pictures of your machine from front and back. EDIT: you mentioned the bent adjuster already - sry. But put everything back in working order before you start adjusting / removing / repositioning other things like cams and so on.
  9. Make sure the timing belt is in good condition, the old brown one soften became brittle with the time and replacing them is a little bit a challenge but doable.
  10. depending on the machine you ordered Id keep the one that has the most in common with the new one in terms of accessories, needle system, bobbins, feet.... know what I mean?
  11. Pre wind some bobbins before you start sewing. There are external electric bobbin winders like kgg has linked above or you can DIY one. I have 3 electric DIY bobbin winders. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/75580-diy-electric-bobbin-winder-singer-111-and-45k-type-bobbins/ or some other DIY ideas for spool winders or the like : https://woolery.com/weaving/weaving-tools/bobbin-cone-winders.html
  12. when he said the hand wheel is "off the grove" I would assume the knob (plunger thumb nut) on the hand wheel is not engaged.
  13. last thing I could imagine is that the adjuster for the thread take up lever it too far in and is causing a bind. See page 11 in the manual. But I only can guess - hard to tell what is going on when not in front of your machine.
  14. One thing I notice in the video is that your stitch length adjuster is set to the shortest stitch length as it seems. Lower it (longer stitch) and try again. See above linked manual page 10. There also is an adjuster for sewing different material thicknesses. It should have the marks H, M, and L (High, Medium, Low) or just H + L. Looks like it is set to the highest foot lift (not sure though). Change the setting to medium or low foot lift and try again. Manual page 12. Hope this helps.
  15. Adler 220 and Singer 144 share a lot of parts. However the Singer 144 is older than the Adler 220 so maybe Adler "updated" some prats. When Singer was going down Adler even manufactured the 220 for Singer which they marketed as Singer 144A. It´s probably the same as for the Singer 111w which is more or less the grandfather of may newer triple feed machine made by Seiko, Juki and so forth - they share parts but are not 1:1 clones. So it depends.... What parts are you looking for? Maybe the question in easier to answer this way.
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