Thread Size/type/thickness Confusion

[OurJud]

I've been using 0.8mm tiger thread, but find it just a little too thick for my small wallet projects.

Someone said I should try 18/4 waxed linen, but I'm afraid these numbers mean nothing to me. I understand one of the numbers refers to the number of strands or something, but what I need to know when I'm buying thread is how thick it is.

Seems obvious to me, but apparently I'm on my own, judging my how many manufactures give the X/X measurements.

So, can someone please explain what I need to be searching for if I want strong, thin hand sewing thread (0.6mm or under).

Thanks.

[celticleather]

See http://www.bowstock.co.uk/acatalog/Linen.html for an explanation of the UK thread sizing system. I find that 18/3 Linen is the best for most medium-weight work.

[OurJud]

Thanks. So the bigger the first number, the thinner the thread?

Rather than start a new thread, can I quickly ask how the thinner thread is tied off when saddle stitching? I know that for the tiger thread/flat waxed thread, the needle is fed through the thread itself, but if the thread is too thin for this, then what? Do we simply tie a knot in it?

Edited April 3, 2014 by OurJud

[DavidL]

https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150131553076948

At the end of the video he puts a dab of glue and pushes the loose thread into the slit.

[simontuntelder]

OurJud, The bigger the number the finer the thread thus making it thinner in most cases. Unless it's a 12 ply thread (if they exist...)

Most ready made (twisted and waxed) linen thread is of the weight 18, but it comes in all sorts of weights like 20, 35 etc

I reckon 18/3 would be good for your wallets, unless you want it to be a bit coarser. But it all depends on your SPI (stitches per inch) - longer stitches don't look very good with a thin thread and thick thread doesn't go too well with small stitches.

[OurJud]

Thanks, Simon

David, I didn't make myself very clear. I wasn't meaning how is the stitching finished, I meant how is the thinner thread secured to the needle before stitching. As I say, with the tiger thread and flat waxed stuff, it's easy to push the needle through the strands of the thread to form the noose knot, but how would it be done with thread that's too thin to get the needle through?

[DavidL]

I use thread thats .5mm thick and i have no problem getting it through. If you need specifics. Hold onto the end of the thread,find the spot you want to pierce with your needle and roll that spot back and forth with your thumb and index until the thread fibers loosen and you can pierce the needle through the separated thread. I wouldn't worry about these small things until i need to worry about them. But thats just me. Hope this helps.

[OurJud]

Thanks, it helps a lot as I wrongly presumed there must have been a different way to secure the thread to the needle with the thinner stuff. Had no idea it could still be pierced in the same way as the thicker stuff.

One of the reasons I thought this was because I thought the strength of the thread would be compromised and maybe snap as you're pulling it through the leather.

Edited April 4, 2014 by OurJud