Machine Identification Please

[Army M]

I believe this to be a Singer 29k series machine may be a 29K 50 or 70-71 can any one identify it. I may be able to purchase it for 350-400 dollars. Of course I will make sure it runs properly . I was going to print out a manual to take with me to see if all the parts are included and get familiar with it before driving to see it.

Any help would be nice. I know to look at the plate on the front but was hoping some one here was familiar with this particular machine and could tell me more specifically about them. I want it for sewing small leather items.I have a couple of larger machines including a Singer 132K .

Thanks, Army

[tonyc1]

I believe this to be a Singer 29k series machine may be a 29K 50 or 70-71 can any one identify it. I may be able to purchase it for 350-400 dollars. Of course I will make sure it runs properly . I was going to print out a manual to take with me to see if all the parts are included and get familiar with it before driving to see it.

Any help would be nice. I know to look at the plate on the front but was hoping some one here was familiar with this particular machine and could tell me more specifically about them. I want it for sewing small leather items.I have a couple of larger machines including a Singer 132K .

Thanks, Army

The model should be stamped on the lower brass tag.

Tony.

[CowboyBob]

Tony is right the model# is on the tag,I can't read it but I'd guess it's a 29-4

Bob

[Army M]

Found out it is a Singer 29-3 they only made them for a few months. It was made in 1906.

[Wizcrafts]

Found out it is a Singer 29-3 they only made them for a few months. It was made in 1906.

You need to check it out very thoroughly before buying it for that much money. Here is your checklist:

1. with the pressor foot up off the throat plate, see how much slack there is when you push and pull on it. You can test this by raising the lever on the back, or by lowering the needle, which raises the foot. If you can push or pull the foot more than about 1/16 inch, stitch length is going to suffer, especially if it can move 1/8 inch.
2. rotate the butterfly knobs under the head, turning the then foot around 360 degrees. It should not bind in any position. Binding can be caused by a bent shaft, or the thread check spring just above the needle mounting bracket.
3. examine the hole in the take-up lever for excessive wear. Thread actually cuts into the metal after decades of use.
4. Make sure the mechanism turns freely when you rotate the flywheel. The rear mounted wheel must be turned towards you from the top (CCW).
5. Make sure that the bobbin winder is attached to the back of the machine, under the hand wheel, and that is can be moved into firm contact with the wheel and locked into position. A worn or missing bobbin winder tire can be replaced.
6. Open the throat plate and wiggle the bobbin shuttle. It shouldn't have much more than 1/8 inch slack. It is driven by a rack and pinion gear assembly that wears out over time.
7. Test the machine to see if it sews properly, without skipped stitches and that you get at least 6 stitches per inch, on 5-6 ounce leather. The stitch length gets shorter as the thickness increases. At 1/4 inch, you may not get more than 7 or 8 spi, if the foot drive actuator is work out (see step #1).
8. Make sure the treadle mechanism works smoothly and that the belt has sufficient tension to turn the machine. The belt is easily replaced if worn or missing.
9. I would want to get at least one bobbin case and a few spare bobbins with the machine.
10. THREADING ROD! If it doesn't have a threading rod you will need to buy one, to push the top thread down the needlebar.

These old patchers use type 29x3 (round point) and 29x4 (leather point) needles. They are really only good at sewing with #69 to #92 thread. The bobbins are tiny and don't hold a lot of thread. If you try to load a bobbin with #138 thread and sneeze, you will run out of thread! Just kidding ;-) - but it won't sew very far with #138. Also, the pressure required to sew with #138 may stress out the feed mechanism.

Edited March 23, 2011 by Wizcrafts

[Army M]

Wizcrafts thanks I will print out the check list. I turned the machine down because I called a few machine specialists (ohio and L.A. )and they told me you can not get parts for this. You can for the singer 29K and 29-4 and many others but since this was a sample machine it is very rare . Not all its parts are compatible. I will use your advice and print this for my next look at a machine here in the near future. I found a singer 29-4 and it has been sitting inside an office not used for years . I also looked at it yesterday. It works but is stiff. The old directions that come with it say to pour kerosene in the oil holes to loosen it up. I would take it to my machine guy here in Los Angeles who refurbishes these and he said it would be 80 bucks to take it apart and get it working smoothly. It 300 bucks and looks to be in great shape from what i can tell.

I really want one of these patch machines . It is the shipping that would kill me if i got one from Ohio or the East coast.

Thanks , Army

You need to check it out very thoroughly before buying it for that much money. Here is your checklist:

1. with the pressor foot up off the throat plate, see how much slack there is when you push and pull on it. You can test this by raising the lever on the back, or by lowering the needle, which raises the foot. If you can push or pull the foot more than about 1/16 inch, stitch length is going to suffer, especially if it can move 1/8 inch.
2. rotate the butterfly knobs under the head, turning the then foot around 360 degrees. It should not bind in any position. Binding can be caused by a bent shaft, or the thread check spring just above the needle mounting bracket.
3. examine the hole in the take-up lever for excessive wear. Thread actually cuts into the metal after decades of use.
4. Make sure the mechanism turns freely when you rotate the flywheel. The rear mounted wheel must be turned towards you from the top (CCW).
5. Make sure that the bobbin winder is attached to the back of the machine, under the hand wheel, and that is can be moved into firm contact with the wheel and locked into position. A worn or missing bobbin winder tire can be replaced.
6. Open the throat plate and wiggle the bobbin shuttle. It shouldn't have much more than 1/8 inch slack. It is driven by a rack and pinion gear assembly that wears out over time.
7. Test the machine to see if it sews properly, without skipped stitches and that you get at least 6 stitches per inch, on 5-6 ounce leather. The stitch length gets shorter as the thickness increases. At 1/4 inch, you may not get more than 7 or 8 spi, if the foot drive actuator is work out (see step #1).
8. Make sure the treadle mechanism works smoothly and that the belt has sufficient tension to turn the machine. The belt is easily replaced if worn or missing.
9. I would want to get at least one bobbin case and a few spare bobbins with the machine.
10. THREADING ROD! If it doesn't have a threading rod you will need to buy one, to push the top thread down the needlebar.

These old patchers use type 29x3 (round point) and 29x4 (leather point) needles. They are really only good at sewing with #69 to #92 thread. The bobbins are tiny and don't hold a lot of thread. If you try to load a bobbin with #138 thread and sneeze, you will run out of thread! Just kidding ;-) - but it won't sew very far with #138. Also, the pressure required to sew with #138 may stress out the feed mechanism.