Finished Products With The Right "feel"

[RunningRoan]

I make strap goods (mostly tack) and I'm currently using Hermann Oak tooling sides, which I dye, antique, carve and/or stamp as needed for each project. However, my finished products end up feeling "dry" to me. They lack the softness they need to wrap comfortably around a horse. I've used Eco-Flo products and Fiebings leather dye...oiling with neatsfoot before and after dying. I've tried Leather Sheen, Eco-Flo Super Sheen and Resolene as a finish. Even still, when I compare my stuff to brand new finished products made by others, mine just doesn't have that nice buttery feel.

I've gotten some Fiebings Oil Dye to try and see if that makes a difference. Got some Bee Natural RTC that I'm going to try and thinking about giving Bag Kote a whirl. Any other product suggestions?

I'm also wondering if it's the leather I'm using. I'd like to try something that doesn't start as dry as the tooling sides...maybe bridle leather? Is that still going to carve and take dye all right?

[Kate]

I make strap goods (mostly tack) and I'm currently using Hermann Oak tooling sides, which I dye, antique, carve and/or stamp as needed for each project. However, my finished products end up feeling "dry" to me. They lack the softness they need to wrap comfortably around a horse. I've used Eco-Flo products and Fiebings leather dye...oiling with neatsfoot before and after dying. I've tried Leather Sheen, Eco-Flo Super Sheen and Resolene as a finish. Even still, when I compare my stuff to brand new finished products made by others, mine just doesn't have that nice buttery feel.

I've gotten some Fiebings Oil Dye to try and see if that makes a difference. Got some Bee Natural RTC that I'm going to try and thinking about giving Bag Kote a whirl. Any other product suggestions?

I'm also wondering if it's the leather I'm using. I'd like to try something that doesn't start as dry as the tooling sides...maybe bridle leather? Is that still going to carve and take dye all right?

The main reason "bridle" leather feels better is the oils and fats they run into the hide during the tannage and finishing process. I don't think I would try to do much carving or stamping on bridle leather, though.

If you are using carving leathers, they will usually dry fairly stiff as they are finished, especially after dying, in my experience. When I have a piece DONE, I let it dry and then re-oil and treat it with a good conditioning - for my gunleather I've always rubbed in and then WARMED in a beeswax/neatsfoot compound, then do a final rubbing and buff to bring up the sheen. This works beautifully for horse gear too! The resultant finish is better outdoors, less liable to spot if it gets rained on, and if you get a scuff it's easy to fix it with the original finish.

All of the "sheen" topcoat products are not really for horse gear, they are for decorative or apparel (ie, belts and purses) items. They also prevent adequate oiling later on - or at least, the item will take oil and soap unevenly.

That's a good lookin' roanie in your avatar!