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Double Daddy

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About Double Daddy

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/09/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    N.E. Georgia
  • Interests
    American political and social history, homesteading skills, technical crafts and trades, family genealogy.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gunleather & accessories
  • Interested in learning about
    Holster/Sheath related leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google search

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I considered one of the Vevor clicker presses - I had been using a modified 1-ton arbor press for clicking (mounted to the bench betwixt a widened plywood base using metal plates to "spread" the pressure load on the cutting pad over said base)...but it wasn't getting it done anymore. My hesitation over the Vevor was pretty much as you stated: uneven pressure/results front to back when clicking out items. I just endured the 1-ton for a bit longer, saved up my cereal box tops and bought a 4-ton press...no regrets.
  2. If budget isn't an issue, BuckleGuy just came out with a new, floor mounted 12-ton manual press ($3300 plus freight)...they also have 4-ton bench mounted models for less https://www.buckleguy.com/clicker-press/ I bought my 4-ton elsewhere (same item and basic price as BG because they were out of stock at the time)...it's a handy thing to have for appropriate sized items that need cutting out (about 8.75"x11.75" work area)...also does well for stamp embossing or pushing smaller cutting dies thru leather as needed. I had no need (or room) for one of the larger floor mount models at this time.
  3. Yeah, that stuff...I'm probably not calling it by the correct name. I have no idea about the "fake wool" stuff you speak/type of. I also have a tendency to re-purpose old socks/t-shirts...I just ask The Missus to launder them clean and then I keep them separate for use as shop rags, etc.
  4. I use sheep sheering (I buy it in bulk quantity just for this purpose and for dying large pieces when I don't have the capacity to dip them)...only apply pure neatsfoot oil (not that compound stuff) to the hair side like Dwight said above, never the fleshy/split side...that side is WAY too thirsty for oil.
  5. Sharp looking holster, both in design and color choices (dye & thread). I can absolutely see it only getting better looking as it "ages in"...such is the beauty of leather. Thanks for sharing!
  6. I use Denatured Alcohol for when I need to reduce my dyes...and you ain't kiddin' either about making sure the lid is screwed on tight before mixing. I keep clear graduated measuring cups on hand just for this (one could probably get them on line but I have a bunch left over from my days of doing tub/tile refinishing)...pour what's required of each component into clean pickle/olive/mason jars, seal it up tight, swirl it around first...then go to shaking. I label and keep the reduced mixtures on hand either for dipping or for wide-area dye work via pieces of shearing or airbrush.
  7. Doc - See the last post in this thread - To the OP - you can use the heat emitting lamps, as Doc pointed out...they work great (I built a drying/"hot" box in the attached thread). A person could make their cabinet's workings as simple or complex as their mechanical aptitude allows. It's the temperature that you are after. Good luck!
  8. Several cutting tools stay on my bench. First, your historically (and not crazy expensive) handy utility knife like Mr. Dwight illustrated above (it gets used for long edge work, general cutting, etc). Next, I have a strap cutter for belts and any straps I might need AFTER I get a straight edge established with the piece of aluminum and aforementioned utility knife (hide is clamped to the work bench under the aluminum). Finally, I keep a large handle Xacto knife with #2 "pointy" blades (also not bad pricey when you get 'em on Amazon, etc) for "fine" corner work...I usually hold it upside down/sharp edge up (Sam Andrews style...look up his videos on YouTube for more details on this method). Been cutting leather this way for a number of years now and see no reason to change canoes...I'm not one for fixin' things that ain't broken. Besides, those round knives make me a bit anxious as well.
  9. I'm like Dwight...Wellwood RED CAN (WRC)...the smelly stuff. Dating back to my years of working in cabinet shops, using it with laminate tops and wood veneer, I have lots of experience with it and very satisfied with the results. When we started this leather venture and found that most crafters here use it (or something very similar, chemically speaking), I found no need to "fix what wasn't broken", to use the old term. The plus side is that I can get it at my local Ace, Lowes or Home Depot in quarts & gallons. I have experimented with Titebond III and Gorilla Brand Wood Glue (not their original glue that requires dampening the surface and clamping for 1-2hrs)...results were pretty decent but definitely NOT as convenient as WRC. Like others on here I suspect, I've also developed the habit of keeping my jelly, pickle & olive jars...they are great for these kind of uses (glues, custom stain batches, etc). DD
  10. Good choice for material on the belt clip...metal, not the plastic "FOMI-style" things that absolutely WILL break at the most inopportune moment.
  11. That will NOT buff out...and, per your description, you are not likely to "walk off" any whoopin' she's inclined to dish out...
  12. Whoo-eee, Boy! I do like me some Schofield revolvers...and a brace of them, at that! Sure is a nice rig...heirloom work you've done there. I really like the color you picked and the border stamping....not "too fancy" and it compliments the shooting irons quite well. The money belt is a great design for this type of setup too...well executed! Thanks for sharing!
  13. You won't regret it. I bought mine, a CB3200, from Cowboy Bob back in late '13...it paid for itself in no time, has never given me a moment's worth of trouble AND the learning curve was "flat" in large part thanks to this very forum. My singular regret was not going with its bigger brother (4500)...but...sewing machines can be addictions too...or so I've heard.
  14. When I install a metal clip on a leather holster, I use the ones from HolsterSmith.com (they'll also hook you up with all the hardware needed...just tell them the thickness of leather you are working with). They look like the cheap ?FOMI? ones but they don't break...they allow you to take the rig on/off easily as necessary while holding securely to the gunbelt. I've made quite a few of these for folks and have never had complaints.
  15. Ain't a single thing wrong with that...it's your "brand", as you put it. I'd run with it if I were you and not look back...
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