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I make civil war era leather items. Beltc packs ect.. Has anyone ever tried this period (1855) recepie?

""Black dye can be made at home by you. The dye I am about to explain is called iron oxide dye or vinegaroon. This dye will only work on vegtable tanned leather. It is really a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather instead of a dye. Take a gallon jug of white vinegar, place a piece of steel wool, make sure it is actually steel wool, some is alluminum now. It works best to tear into pieces and maybe add a few old rusty nails, Let set a week or two untill the mixture is merky!!! Strain liquid, A coffee filter works great. Do not apply this mixture yet. The acid from the vinegar needs to be neutralized. I would pour this into a 5 gallon bucket and add another gallon of water. Spring water is recomended, but tap water will work too. The tap water has chlorine etc that will rot the leather over time, but should last you your reenacting career if it is used. You can now apply it to the leather. I tried several methods, the one that worked best for me was to immerse the entire piece in the bucket and leave it alone for a couple of days. I also wiped it on with a sponge and spritzed it on with a squirt bottle. The only problem with immersion is the back side will be colored as well. Not really a problem""

Let me know,

Mike

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I make civil war era leather items. Beltc packs ect.. Has anyone ever tried this period (1855) recepie?

""Black dye can be made at home by you. The dye I am about to explain is called iron oxide dye or vinegaroon. This dye will only work on vegtable tanned leather. It is really a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather instead of a dye. Take a gallon jug of white vinegar, place a piece of steel wool, make sure it is actually steel wool, some is alluminum now. It works best to tear into pieces and maybe add a few old rusty nails, Let set a week or two untill the mixture is merky!!! Strain liquid, A coffee filter works great. Do not apply this mixture yet. The acid from the vinegar needs to be neutralized. I would pour this into a 5 gallon bucket and add another gallon of water. Spring water is recomended, but tap water will work too. The tap water has chlorine etc that will rot the leather over time, but should last you your reenacting career if it is used. You can now apply it to the leather. I tried several methods, the one that worked best for me was to immerse the entire piece in the bucket and leave it alone for a couple of days. I also wiped it on with a sponge and spritzed it on with a squirt bottle. The only problem with immersion is the back side will be colored as well. Not really a problem""

Let me know,

Mike

There are two threads below on this subject. Here are the links:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1352

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2331

You might check them out.

Savage

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