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smirak

First Tool Order Going In

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Well, the wife got on my butt last night for over analyzing everything I do. She told me to just order the stuff. So...my first projects are going to be a double thickness gun belt, a "dress/knock around" belt, a wallet and a holster. I need to know which leather would be good. I don't mind buying a whole side if it would be better, or perhaps by the sq ft from Springfield. I know the holster/belt could be the same (8/9 oz leather), but the wallet would be thinner, so perhaps that would be by the sq ft. Below is what I'm thinking I'll need in terms of tools to get started...all construction tools, no "tooling" tools just yet.

Maul - gonna splurge on a nice Barry King to begin with...a 1lb I'm guessing

Knife - most likely will be a stanley type until I can figure out if I want to get a head/round knife from Barry Johnson

granite slab - I live in an area of the country that doesn't have a counter shop nearby or anything on craigslist

poundo board

#3 edge beveler

wing divider

saddler's groover

1" oblong punch (for belt slot for the buckle)

stitching irons - gonna go with the finesse ones from springfield and find some 8 or 9 spi ones from goodsjapan or leathercraft tools for the wallet

dye(s)

thread

needles

wool daubers

strap cutter

oval punch for belt holes

hole punch for chicago screws

stitching awl

scratch awl

buckles for belt

chicago screws

As for burnishing stuff, I'm going to pick up a drill press. Then, I'm going to head over to leatherburnishers.com or proedgeburnishers.com and grab some burnishers and sanding drums.

What am I missing? Am going to make the order tomorrow with springfield and (possibly) others.

Thanks,

Kevin

Edited by smirak

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Suggestion, granite can cost a bundle. Save that purchase until you go to an area near a cabinet shop, I got mine for free.

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Not a problem, enjoy and be safe.

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precise metal ruler.

Raw hide hammer.

large and/or small 90 degree ruler (squared edges)

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Suggest Ruler have cork on the back, less skidding on your work

1 pound hammer, I find it better. My original kit came with a 1/2 pound hammer, I really had to work, wondering if some of my errors were as result.

90 degree ruler, look at your work area and buy the proper size, I over bought :oops:

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I didn't see anything for top coating or finishing.

I use Gum Tragacanth for burnishing my edges and Neatsfoot Oil and Tan-Kote for finishing.

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I'd recommend a stitching pony to hold your work while you sew. They don't cost a lot and personally saved my sanity more than once. Practice with that French edger a bit before you put it on your work, they take a bit of work to get to where you cut nice even edges with them. Also I don't see any type of glue in that list. A good contact cement will make your life easier when it comes time to line everything up and start stitching. Personally I use Barge but there are so many good cements out there that the list would be long.

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Stanley knife blades are intended to be disposable, but for cutting leather they seem to work better when they've been resharpened a few times; probably because it smooths down the shoulder of the bevel.

If you don't already have one, get a fine oil or water stone

I see you've ordered jewelers rouge but not a strop, so perhaps you're making your own. They're easy enough to make from a couple of bits of scrap wood & leather

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Thanks for all the replies so far...Along with the order I put in at Springfield, I went to my "local (1.5 hrs away)" Tandy and got much more stuff...this is a damn expensive hobby! :)

@snubby - I have tan-kote, gum trag, carnauba cream, neatsfoot oil, saddle soap, beeswax, paraffin wax and various other stuff

@orphan - I built a stitching pony last week. Crude as all I have is a skilsaw, but it functions as it should and is extra handy to have as a "third hand". I use weldwood contact cement from HD. So far, it works with no issues.

@Zulu - I bought a huge 50 ct pack of Dewalt blades from my local HD. I've got a fine/coarse stone from HD that I bought, though I am using 1000 grit wet/dry paper for now. I'll "sharpen" my blades/cutting tools on it and then use the rouge on a strop I bought from Rocky mountain to polish. As for my edgers, I just cut a small strip o 3/4 oz scrap leather and glued that to a paint stick. I put my 1000 grit on top of that and pull my edgers back about 10 times, and then remove the 1000 grit paper and strop to polish.

The only thing that I wish I had right now was a corner punch to round corners and some round punches as well as strap end punches. Those will most likely have to be an August purchase. I think I've spent my July money so far...in about $1500 including leather now...

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You can make rounded corners by holding down firmly on a washer, a coin, or similar, and making several tangental cuts. Tidy it up with sandpaper

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Thanks Zulu...that's what I do currently, but just not any good at it. I need to find a better method to cutting curves/corners with my Stanley knife. I've got straight cuts down pat, but the curves/corners not so much. As for tidying up with sandpaper, what grit do you recommend? I've tried 320/330, but it's too smooth and doesn't take much meat off. Then, my next was 80 and it's too much...so, somewhere in between...thinking 120 to start with and 320 to finish? This is just a temp solution as I'm going to get a drill press and sanding drums soon, so the speed will help out on that...this is all by hand so far.

Kevin

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Kevin I bought some cheap chisels from SLC for corners and I'm as happy as can be with them. Best kept secret in LW. I've been told for years to use a penny, coffee cup on larger projects, etc. and it's a bunch of hooey. Don't know why no one ever tells people that they really use these http://springfieldleather.com/42602/Chisel%2CCurved%2C10mm/

Cheryl

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I have a box containing a lifetime's collection of abrasive paper, but I go by feel, I didn't really know what grade I was using. Just turned some over to check, it's P120, but you could go a little bit finer though not down to P180. I finish with P280 sometimes because that's what I have, but usually I go straight to gum tragacanth.

Sometimes I steal my daughter's nail boards; don't know what grade they are, but they're double sided fine & medium, and just about perfect!

When doing the tangental cuts with a Stanley knife try holding it with the handle low down so the blade is at a shallower angle, a bit like a round knife. Lots of videos on using a round knife on YouTube, but the Stanley knife is fine unless you're desperate to spend more money

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Kevin I bought some cheap chisels from SLC for corners and I'm as happy as can be with them. Best kept secret in LW. I've been told for years to use a penny, coffee cup on larger projects, etc. and it's a bunch of hooey. Don't know why no one ever tells people that they really use these http://springfieldleather.com/42602/Chisel%2CCurved%2C10mm/

Cheryl

Thanks for the reply Cheryl. I bought the stitching chisels from SLC that are from that same "line". I will have to look into their other chisels. I need some hardware from SLC anyway...might be able to sneak a few of those in :)

BTW, I was over in your neck of the woods a couple weeks ago. I live over in Lebanon, NH. I bought a new truck from Garvey Nissan in Rutland.

Kevin

I have a box containing a lifetime's collection of abrasive paper, but I go by feel, I didn't really know what grade I was using. Just turned some over to check, it's P120, but you could go a little bit finer though not down to P180. I finish with P280 sometimes because that's what I have, but usually I go straight to gum tragacanth.

Sometimes I steal my daughter's nail boards; don't know what grade they are, but they're double sided fine & medium, and just about perfect!

When doing the tangental cuts with a Stanley knife try holding it with the handle low down so the blade is at a shallower angle, a bit like a round knife. Lots of videos on using a round knife on YouTube, but the Stanley knife is fine unless you're desperate to spend more money

I'm always desperate to spend money! I've spent nearly $1500 so far just since June...all in all, a great hobby that is really helping me with my PTSD management though, so as far as I'm concerned, it's money well spent and the wife isn't arguing 'cause I'm not moody/angry as much anymore!

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I didn't make my pony because I suck at wood working if it doesn't involve an axe but if yours works for you then all I can say is hell yeah. That line of chisels from SFL you're talking about are actually great. I've got a couple of them and they just work. No frills, no fancy names, just clean cuts every time. Plus if you somehow destroy one you spend less than 10 bucks and get a new one. I just wish they had english point belt/strap chisels, the osborns are nice but christ the price. If you just need to talk drop me a pm, one vet to another brother.

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I didn't make my pony because I suck at wood working if it doesn't involve an axe but if yours works for you then all I can say is hell yeah. That line of chisels from SFL you're talking about are actually great. I've got a couple of them and they just work. No frills, no fancy names, just clean cuts every time. Plus if you somehow destroy one you spend less than 10 bucks and get a new one. I just wish they had english point belt/strap chisels, the osborns are nice but christ the price. If you just need to talk drop me a pm, one vet to another brother.

Awesome brother...appreciate it!

That said, keep checking Springfield...they have English point and round in both 1 1/4 and 1 1/2, but they aren't on the website all the time. I'm actually about to order their 10, 20, and 30 mm round chisels...less than $15 for the "set" isn't too bad. I do like my stitching chisels, but do wish they'd offer them in a tighter spi. I've got some of the "nice" 8 and 9 spi irons from Tandy, and they are nice, but no 2 prong which is somewhat inconvenient, but nothing you can't work around I guess.

Kevin

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