niterdr Report post Posted March 3, 2015 Got frustrated without one so I had to build me a stitching horse, I used 5 oz milled veg tan for the jaws, Oak for the upper and poplar for the base (Less chance of splinters) Please let me know your comments! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt T Report post Posted March 3, 2015 It looks nice. Where did you get the lever? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
niterdr Report post Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) Both Lee Valley and Rockler Woodworking Tools have the cam levers. They come in 2 sized 1/4" and 5/16" I found the 1/4" too small for this. Alex Edited March 3, 2015 by niterdr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Basically Bob Report post Posted March 3, 2015 Looks nice .... give us a review after you have used it for a while Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted March 6, 2015 One suggestion I might make is to add an "alternate" set of holes lower down on the uprights. That way you could move the cam lock down to allow longer pieces into the jaws. I made one with the bolt at the same height as yours and found that I needed to lower it for some projects. Love how you softened all of the edges! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David8386 Report post Posted March 6, 2015 That looks good. You will get frustrated catching your thread on the lever for awhile until you get used to it, then you won't really notice it. The cam lever looks better than my bolt with a wing nut. Good job. David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
niterdr Report post Posted March 7, 2015 After using this I am going to make holes lower as suggested. Rounding the edges was real easy with the new sanding sponges on the market, they conform easily to round off edges. I have already started on another set of uprights with smaller (height) jaws as some of the cases and sheaths I make have very little room to hold on to. The new jaws will be 1/2" x 3 - 4 1/2" narrow enough that they won't interfere with a belt loop or clip. Will post pic's soon. Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruce H Report post Posted March 10, 2015 I like the heck out of it...Nice clean lines with a hidden hinge and a sweet lever lock...Very Kool!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MonicaJacobson Report post Posted March 12, 2015 Nice thing is, if you move the lever lower, your leg should keep the thread from catching. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill46 Report post Posted March 13, 2015 Just as an added idea, a scrap piece of leather used as a flap over the cam might detour thread or lace from hanging on it. by; simply falling away ? just a thought ! Your workmanship is very re-fined. ---- Wild Bill46 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
niterdr Report post Posted March 14, 2015 Thank You Very Much for the compliments. I am going to take the advise and see where it goes for me. Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lwm803 Report post Posted March 15, 2015 I am only an occasional leather worker but I have never had the thread catch on the cam lock nut that I used on the stitching pony which I built. It seemed less likely to cause such problems than the wing nut option. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted March 15, 2015 Very nice! I especially like the cam lever. I struggled with a knob until I swapped it for a Rockler cam lever. Quick and smooth operation and it does not catch the thread. One thought along the lines of using your pony for smaller items. You would be better able to grasp smaller items if the angles on the tip of the jaws were sharper. Also, thinner leather would conform better to the sharper jaws, allowing your to get in closer to those pesky small items. Thanks for sharing, Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
