Overstitch Wheel Question..

[thekid77]

Hi everybody,

I'm very new to leatherworking, and to this forum, and have a question about using the overstitch wheel...

In Stohlman's handstitching book, when using the overstitch wheel, he recommends beginning by starting in the corner of the bottom channel, and wheeling across the bottom (please see attached picture with areas indicated in red)...

My question is, how can you guarantee that the overstitch wheel will finish with a dot impression that is exactly in the opposite corner that you started from no matter what circumference of leather you are stitching together?

Thank you all for your time and expertise

Edited October 2, 2012 by thekid77

[Camerius]

Hello,

Being first post and all, but here goes.

My question is, how can you guarantee that the overstitch wheel will finish with a dot impression that is exactly in the opposite corner that you started from no matter what circumference of leather you are stitching together?

You do so by using the right size wheel for the piece that you're in the process of marking up. In that way, you'll be sure to end up with a corner dot. What I do is that i take a piece of scrap leather, measure out the length of the original that needs to be marked, and then run an fitting size overstiching wheel over it that I think might fit the stitching I want on the original. I'm too new to this, but that's how I do it till I have gotten used to what stitching length goes to what leather thickness and so on.

Hope it helps.

C

[Tree Reaper]

You can start in each corner when it's critical and meet in the middle if you want, adjust the spacing when you use the awl, the wheel is just a guide and any unwanted mark won't be visible under the stitching.

[thekid77]

Wow!! Thank you both for sharing your expertise, it's greatly appreciated!!! ))

[EricIsaiah]

Here's another question about this pesky tool:

How do you get the marks from the wheel to be even across two pieces of leather?

For instance, when I'm making a wallet, I'll mark both the outside and inside pieces, starting in the same place, but often the distance between the dots varies on each side. Even though I always start in the same place, I usually end up with dots that aren't even at all when I come to the end of the groove. I suspect this has something to do with the speed with which I mark the leather and the pressure I apply while doing so, but I can't be certain because I've been unable to fix it.

It usually ends up something like this:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

[Cyberthrasher]

Here's another question about this pesky tool:

How do you get the marks from the wheel to be even across two pieces of leather?

For instance, when I'm making a wallet, I'll mark both the outside and inside pieces, starting in the same place, but often the distance between the dots varies on each side. Even though I always start in the same place, I usually end up with dots that aren't even at all when I come to the end of the groove. I suspect this has something to do with the speed with which I mark the leather and the pressure I apply while doing so, but I can't be certain because I've been unable to fix it.

It usually ends up something like this:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

I'm new to hand stitching, so I may be wrong. But, I have to wonder why you're marking both sides. If you mark the side that you'll be going through with the awl (or whatever hole making device you'll be using), then make sure you go through straight and level, then your holes on the back side will be in the exact same place as the ones on the front.

[EricIsaiah]

I use a diamond awl to punch through each side separately because I find if I do them at the same time, I have a difficult time keeping the holes aligned. They tend to be either angled down or up, which makes the stitching on the second piece of leather appear really uneven. Know what I mean? So I thought it'd be easier to just mark each side and punch them independently, but I'm finding that I spend a lot of time aligning the dots with my scratch awl.

Edited January 31, 2013 by EricIsaiah

[Cyberthrasher]

Get yourself some seem tape to hold the pieces together before stitching. I get the thin stuff and actually slice it in half so it's even thinner. That way I don't get any goo extending past the stitching. When you're going through with your awl, go slow and watch your angle, then JUST before it comes out the other side you'll see it bulging the leather a little where it's going to exit. You can adjust your angle at this point. Also, are you grooving both sides? I find that helps me keep my elevation right quite a bit if I'm making sure to exit within the groove.

[David8386]

are you using a stitching pony or clamp to hold your work? if not that will help a lot in keeping the awl straight.

David

[mlapaglia]

Glue the pieces together with some contact cement first if nothing else just 1/4 inch or so wide from the edge. This will keep the pieces together. Then hold your diamond chisel and hold it straight and the holes will be straight. As soon as your can stop using the chisel and learn to use the awl or if you have to use a teeny tiny drill bit instead of the chisel. The diamond chisel punches too big a hole and it will not properly closeup. You will find that the awl or if you have to a drill bit, will look much better when its all done. Another good trick is to use a drill press and put a needle in the chuck. With the press OFF push the needle through the leather to make your hole. Much nicer than the chisel. The idea is to put as small a hole in as you can.

If you are using the large eye needles from Tandy its time to put them aside and use a harness needle. Start with a #0. A #000 is too large. As you get better you will find you can get down to a 1 to a 3 size needle. It's not a sin to pull the needle through the hole with a pair of pliers.

Give it a try. you will be amazed at how much better it looks.

Michael