How To Dye?

[Thomas]

I looked and didn't see anything, even though i am sure that there is other things. I am having a problem dyeing holsters. I am looking for some pointers from people that are more experienced on the subject. The way that i do it is using the little cotton daubers that come with the dye. I am having a problem getting a nice even dye on them. I can post pictures to let yal see if yal like. I just would like to find a better method to dye them. After i dye looks like swirls or wood grain almost because, i guess, not evenly applied.

I decided to go ahead and show two i have recently done. Revolver for a ruger lcr and the auto is for a cz 75. The holster for the lcr took a lot of coats to look even. I would also like some suggestions on where to get snaps that are long enough to go through 3 layers of 7 to 8 oz. leather so i don't have to use chicago screws.

Thanks in advance for suggestions

Thomas

Edited November 24, 2010 by Thomas

[Nutty Saddler]

I use the Fiebings dyes - Oil , spirit and acrylic , I thin them down with the dye thinner and then after having prepared my leather I spray it on .

I have found that the worst thing you can do is to try to rush things - sometimes I use two or three coats to get the best finish rubbing down the work between each application , I also have to rub my finished work down to remove any excess dye , I have found that pure sheep wool is best for this . Then I apply a coat of curriers grease to finish things off , I also normally leave the coloured leather for a day or two before I do any further work on it.

[Thomas]

I use the Fiebings dyes - Oil , spirit and acrylic , I thin them down with the dye thinner and then after having prepared my leather I spray it on .

I have found that the worst thing you can do is to try to rush things - sometimes I use two or three coats to get the best finish rubbing down the work between each application , I also have to rub my finished work down to remove any excess dye , I have found that pure sheep wool is best for this . Then I apply a coat of curriers grease to finish things off , I also normally leave the coloured leather for a day or two before I do any further work on it.

What kind of sprayer are you and others using?? Also i need to find somewhere that has snaps that can go through three layers of leather. Using chicago screws makes them go lower on holster so guns ride higher.

[Nutty Saddler]

I use a small hobby sprayer with a small compressor & tank as I am only spraying small pieces of leather .

[Thomas]

I use a small hobby sprayer with a small compressor & tank as I am only spraying small pieces of leather .

Where is a good place to get a hobby sprayer??

[Nutty Saddler]

Try e-bay , either that or your local hardware store might have one - I got mine from the UK , so I think somewhere local might be better for you.

[JJLeatherworks]

I looked and didn't see anything, even though i am sure that there is other things. I am having a problem dyeing holsters. I am looking for some pointers from people that are more experienced on the subject. The way that i do it is using the little cotton daubers that come with the dye. I am having a problem getting a nice even dye on them. I can post pictures to let yal see if yal like. I just would like to find a better method to dye them. After i dye looks like swirls or wood grain almost because, i guess, not evenly applied.

I decided to go ahead and show two i have recently done. Revolver for a ruger lcr and the auto is for a cz 75. The holster for the lcr took a lot of coats to look even. I would also like some suggestions on where to get snaps that are long enough to go through 3 layers of 7 to 8 oz. leather so i don't have to use chicago screws.

Thanks in advance for suggestions

Thomas

We use Fiebings regular dyes, thinning them with denatured alcohol, then we use an airbrush that was purchased at Harbor Freight which gives an even coat once you get the hang of it. Also we prepare the leather for dyeing by cleaning it first with oxalic acid to remove dirt, grease, finger oils from handling allowing the dye to penetrate evenly. Also giving the leather a sunbath after dying tends to set the dye and even it out more. If you are giving it a finish coat like X-1 wait a couple of days if you are using colored dyes; it will lift up some of the dye.

If the dye job is really messed up, USMC Black undiluted covers all and will be even if applied heavy enough.

[TwinOaks]

I airbrush my dyes too. I picked up the $10 dollar version from Harbor Freight . If you have any craft stores near you, you can check them for airbrushes, but be prepared to spend quite a bit more....somewhere in the $150 range. You'll also need an air source. If you don't already have a compressor, you can get those pretty affordably at Harbor Freight, too.

[katsass]

I looked and didn't see anything, even though i am sure that there is other things. I am having a problem dyeing holsters. I am looking for some pointers from people that are more experienced on the subject. The way that i do it is using the little cotton daubers that come with the dye. I am having a problem getting a nice even dye on them. I can post pictures to let yal see if yal like. I just would like to find a better method to dye them. After i dye looks like swirls or wood grain almost because, i guess, not evenly applied.

I decided to go ahead and show two i have recently done. Revolver for a ruger lcr and the auto is for a cz 75. The holster for the lcr took a lot of coats to look even. I would also like some suggestions on where to get snaps that are long enough to go through 3 layers of 7 to 8 oz. leather so i don't have to use chicago screws.

Thanks in advance for suggestions

Thomas

FWIW: I also use an airbrush for dying my stuff. This (pictured) rig was around $70 or so when I bought it. That was for the little compressor and the 'quick change' air brush. I don't think they have increased in price much over that.....if at all. I like the quick change feature because I don't have to clean the brush after each use, just the bottle. I use it to shoot dye, neatsfoot oil, and finishes. I primarily use Fiebing's Pro Oil dye. Sorry, but no help here on the long snaps. Mike

[glennaycock]

I airbrush my dyes too. I picked up the $10 dollar version from Harbor Freight . If you have any craft stores near you, you can check them for airbrushes, but be prepared to spend quite a bit more....somewhere in the $150 range. You'll also need an air source. If you don't already have a compressor, you can get those pretty affordably at Harbor Freight, too.

The Badger knockoff that Harbor Freight sells for about $15 is pretty nice. I picked up one to shoot dyes. I believe it's parts-compatible with the Badger and really, for $15, it's a steal!

[Thomas]

Thanks for all the help guys. I guess my christmas wish list changed from gun cleaning kit to small air compressor and sprayer set. lol

[alb]

How much do you guys dilute your dyes and what's the purpose? I've always used them full strength.

Thanks,

Ann

[Thomas]

How much do you guys dilute your dyes and what's the purpose? I've always used them full strength.

Thanks,

Ann

Denatured alcohol or dye thinner. Is what i have used and works fine. I believe denatured alcohol is what most people use though(also cheaper).

[JLSleather]

How much do you guys dilute your dyes and what's the purpose? I've always used them full strength.

Thanks,

Ann

I thin almost everything... only dyes used full strength are black and chocolate. These colors I want to leave rich - usually solid colors.

Some of the colors are about 4:1 (solvent to dye), others much more. I buy "navy" and thin it about 30:1 to simulate skies, water, and denim clothing. Put the navy on full strength - even with a "dry" brush - and it's nearly black.

And it's easier to blend. The Fiebing's dye is basically little flakes blended in a solution. Thin it out (more solution) and you can cover more area quickly and I think it's easier to keep it "even".

One more (big) reason for reducer is I can get different shades of one color without changing the color (chocolate and dark brown, even full strength, are not the same shade). Photo below is dark brown dye (only). Background is about 1:1, design is about 10:1. Same dye bottle, though....

[alb]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I appreciate you taking the time.

JLSLeather - beautiful work!

From a practical standpoint - do you keep lots of little bottles around with various dilutions? I tend to do most dying with a wool scrap and tip the bottle to the scrap, full strength. I'm wondering the best way to get started trying some dilutions without wasting dye and without being overrun by little bottles or jars..... Do you use a dropper to measure?

My latest discovery is some old fiebings leather *stain* that I found in the back of a cabinet. Imparts a beautiful translucent color that is great for saddle touch ups.

Anyone know how stain differs from dye?

Ann

I thin almost everything... only dyes used full strength are black and chocolate. These colors I want to leave rich - usually solid colors.

Some of the colors are about 4:1 (solvent to dye), others much more. I buy "navy" and thin it about 30:1 to simulate skies, water, and denim clothing. Put the navy on full strength - even with a "dry" brush - and it's nearly black.

And it's easier to blend. The Fiebing's dye is basically little flakes blended in a solution. Thin it out (more solution) and you can cover more area quickly and I think it's easier to keep it "even".

One more (big) reason for reducer is I can get different shades of one color without changing the color (chocolate and dark brown, even full strength, are not the same shade). Photo below is dark brown dye (only). Background is about 1:1, design is about 10:1. Same dye bottle, though....

[Twomoon]

Thomas,

I used to have the same problem as you described. Here is what works for me: I use a small sponge. First, I get it wet then wring as much water out of it as I can. Then I apply Fiebings dye to the sponge (either the oil dye or the regular stuff) and apply it to the leather in a circular motion. I'll usually end up giving it at least two coats. If I have done any tooling on the holster, I'll use the dauber and run it quickly over the tooling, then use the sponge to even it out (the sponge is not good for getting down into the tooling). My results have improved drastically and sponges are pretty cheap!

Hope this helps.

Kevin

[JLSleather]

Too kind, Ann, but thanks Personally, I prefer natural leather with a hints of color. Hate to see perfectly good cow all painted up. But, my wife says - about 2 or 3 times a week - kaint just make what I like. So, the dark leather was her idea, actually.

I have 16 bottles (1 0z) that I have stuff pre-mixed in, and 4 more (same size) that I have around for mixing the stuff I'm just gonna use once (I don't do lots of purple, but even I liked those purple orchids that lady wanted). This is why I say "about" 4:1 or "about" 30:1 ... I know some of the reducer is evaporating when the bottle is open.

Bottles are about 1 3/8" diameter, I git the dye with droppers. They're about $2 / 5 pack at hobby lobby, and I keep them separated - one for yellows, one for reds .... etc. All of it sits in a small drawer in my bench and slides shut out of the way when I'm tooling.

Just for information, the bottles I use are 1 oz glass bottles by Paasche, who also makes the airbrushes I use. Hobby lobby has those, too, or you can get them on Ebay for about $1 apiece. Glass bottles will clean out very well if you ever decide to clean 'em, and you can use them with the airbrush if you care to (I don't - too much weight for me when I'm trying to be able to move around). The "thingy" posted here is all done with shades of those 16 colors, though some of the shades are more than one color painted over the top of another. I post it here so you can see what the 30:1 blue looks like (sky, water, fisherman's jeans, and lightly on the distant mountains).

[JJLeatherworks]

In response to a PM, (sorry, haven't figured that out yet). Oxalic Acid, also known as wood bleach, can be bought at Ace Hardware, Springfield Leather and I believe S-L Leather. Don't soak the leather, just wipe it down with a rag or sponge dampened with the Oxalic Acid. This will remove finger oils, black spots left by steel tools touching damp leather and other assorted oils and debris gathered by the leather.

As to removing Epoxy glue, I wouldn't know. I don't use epoxy for anything. My work is held together with Barge's, Tandy's Tanners Bond, Masters or rubber cement. All of these glues can be removed from the leather with the all purpose eraser, order number 153-1, from Springfield. I have heard crape sole material and art gum erasers work too.

Edited December 1, 2010 by JJLeatherworks

[TomG]

Check Harbor Freight Tools. they have inexpensive airbrushes and compressors that work well... at least the compressor does.

After you master the airbrush, you might want to buy a more expensive one.

Where is a good place to get a hobby sprayer??