GerryR

I assume you clamp it to a bench??? I made mine so you can "attach" it to a chair and sit on it to stabilize it. It is adjustable for different height chairs.

I seem to favor AC servo systems. They are 3-phase motor systems (with 1-phase power input) using a variable frequency drive (VFD). I have built a couple of different systems. They are more expensive than the Enduro DC drive systems, and you need an "Inverter" rated motor to run at low speeds (to handle the extra heat). I mention this because using a proximity sensor and a metal flag on the hand-wheel, for example, they can be made to stop in any position, depending upon the location of the metal flag, regardless of the speed reducer used. They, generally speaking, are very reliable systems, as well. A general DC servo system can be made to do the same, however the systems made specifically for sewing machines do not seam to have this option. I'm just tossing out another option when considering motor drives for sewing machines.

xxx found the videos.

Verry nice. (I used stainless steel caps on the jaws on mine. It will defleck the needle and protect the jaws if I get too close when stitching.)

I need things that are portable, as well as functional, because of space requirements. I made a table/stand for my Chinese Patcher from 2" PVC pipe. It has ball rollers at the bottom of the pipes and a handle to shift the weight to the rollers when I want to move it; functional and portable! I made "T-nuts" from steel stock and used long bolts to fabricate the table using the pipe; not as sturdy as a weldment, but good enough for a small patcher.

The best "critique" you are going to have is when you actually use the finished product. Then you will say, "I should have done this or I could have done that; all the shoulda, woulda, coulda's. That looks very nice and very sturdy and already looks like a lot of thought has gone into it! I took the easy way out and adopted a cheap work station from Harbor Freight to do the job:

With all the stuff recommended, he will need a roll-around tool box!!

Looks pretty complete, though I don't know why a small set of 1/4" (or nut-drivers) or 3/8" sockets wouldn't come in handy. Also, a couple of "C" or "E" clip tools might come in handy, as well.

Sorry, that unit has been sold, but I can post some pictures from the cast iron version that I have. It isn't a portable but everything is nearly identical. I'll take some pictures of a belt I made and post them. May be a little hard to see the black-on-black, but you should be able to get the idea. Edited to add pictures; last picture is the backside which is brown but doesn't show it in the picture. The buckle end pictures shows the beginning and end of a 45 inch long belt done with one bobbin with thread to spear (92 thread).

Here is a "portable" patcher I put together. It does need 220VAC to run, though. Much quicker than sewing by hand, and it can be clamped to any bench. The stitch quality is quite good IMO. This is the aluminum alloy patcher, not the cast iron one. The foot pedal speed control is made from a bicycle hand brake.

I have a "Chinese Patcher" and put a servo motor/controller on it. It cost me about $150.00 total. Maybe I'm not as fussy as others, but I think the stitching is fine. I changed the needle system to 135x16 so I have more options, and can sew up to 138 thread size. The change was rather minor; the needle bar had to be adjusted. I have a way of putting a flat on the needles like the HAx1 that the standard machine uses, but I have read where others modify the groove in the needle bar to accept the round 135x16 needles. The real negative I find to be is the small bobbin size, but I have been able to do the complete perimeter of a belt with no problems. Still the best buy to get one into a machine! (I had a Singer 153W103 and sold it as this sewed just as well. YMMV!) It will do up to 5/16" (20 oz.) leather, depending of course on the temper.

Nice tiger skin pattern!! Unique mag holder.

Thank you both for your comments. As I stated, I used on-hand straps that were collecting dust for the harness. If I was starting from scratch, I would approach it differently; the holster carrier would stay approximately the same, but I would approach the harness part differently, especially where it attaches to the holster carrier. @Hags - I would like to see what you come up with. Once an idea gets started, it is amazing how many variations come out of it!

I don't usually need a chest holster but wanted to have the option when woods walking (Black bear and now mountain lions). I built this harness so I can take my belt holster and mount it for chest carry. Not the best job I ever did but it works and might give others some ideas. I used web belts and harnesses from a tool bag and from a weed-wacker; the leather chest portion I made. No need to have a separate dedicated chest holster.

Why would the width of the feed dog matter, especially that little? There will be leather between upper foot and the feed dog. Just asking.