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bill2750

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About bill2750

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    hunting, photography, motorcycles

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    hand tooling
  • Interested in learning about
    sewing leather and webbing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search

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  1. I put the speed reducer and a 2" (clutch) motor pulley on it from my 111w and it is sewing like a dream. Goes as slow as I need and as fast also. I am really liking having Reverse for the first time
  2. Henrye & Colt: I figured someone on here would know what the dots were for, thank you. Chavez: I think it was a good deal for $475, and yes it looks brand new. I think it has been sitting in this lady's garage for the past 18 years and not being used. She claimed to only use it a couple times. I don't know what a "couple " means, but it definitely did not see much use. My guess is it was more than she could handle.
  3. I don't know, I will have to check that later when I get home. I haven't had any issues with removing the bobbin but did not notice the alignment of the marks.
  4. I recently purchased this 206RB-2 and got a great price because it would not sew properly. Missed stitches and or it would not pick up the bobbin thread at all. The machine is practically new and has been stored in a garage for many years. I thought it was worth the gamble an purchased it. I went thru the manual and set the timing of the hook and needle as described and the machine is now humming along beautifully. My question is regarding the white dot on the body by the hand wheel (see picture) and the corresponding white dot on the hand wheel (not shown). I do not see any mention in the manual about them and they did not come into play in the timing procedure. Am I missing something? They must be associated with some type of timing is my guess. Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you, Bill
  5. I got the machine sewing. I followed directions from Eric in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=43582&&p=395345&page=12 Thanks everyone for the help. Now I need to slow it down and get different presser feet.
  6. I want to begin with a huge thank you to all that have posted here, and specifically Eric. I purchased a used 111W103 and got a great deal on it because it was not working and the owner did not know how to fix it. Honestly I didn't either but I thought I could figure it out with all the post's on this website. Anyway, my story played out exactly like this thread. As I tried to sew just manually turning the machine over, the thread would catch under the needle plate and bind up breaking the thread. So I started by checking the timing and sure enough the set screws on the lower belt gear were not like Erics picture posted early in this thread, so I fixed that. Next I moved the take up lever to the top position and the timing marks did not line up, so I slipped off the belt and keeping the take up lever in the top position, aligned the timing marks (about three teeth off). I threaded the machine and tried turning it over by hand and everything worked! It's sewing and I am thrilled. I have never owned or sewed a stitch with an industrial machine before. I went through and oiled her up. I know I still need to check the needle position and fine tune some things but it's working! THANK YOU ERIC I am attaching a picture and have a couple questions. What is the green arrow pointing to? I don't have a manual. Also, if you follow the thread path around the tension plates and under the wire spring, there is a pointed metal tab (look through the hole in the silver disc at the point of the red arrow) that the thread is supposed to snap in behind as you go clockwise around the silver disc. I can't get the thread to go behind the tab by pulling the thread tight, it breaks the thread. So I thread it in behind and then under the wire spring and finish the normal path the the needle. Loosening the knurled knob doesn't help and changing the position of the silver disc doesn't help. There is a black set screw at the 12 o'clock position that doesn't seem to make a difference either. So I am flying blind at this point.
  7. The machine was listed for $300, said he would take $200 over the phone and accepted $150 cash. I don't know what the internal drive belt is, unless it's the same thing as the timing belt. It looks OK. Overall it is in good condition. When cranking over by hand with a doubled thickness of duck fabric, the top thread is catching on something under the needle plate and breaking. If I turn it over by hand without the needle being threaded, there does not seem to be any strikes or unusual noises. I then ran the machine without thread and the clutch motor works fine and the machine seems to operate very well at various speeds. So at this point I don't know anything about this machine or how it works. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I will locate a manual and go from there. So far I feel pretty good about it...time will tell.
  8. Well I missed the 111w155 but the 111w103 is still available for $200 with table. The seller says he get a birds nest underneath and has no idea how to fix it. I'm hoping it is just out of adjustment and a good mechanic could get everything in order pretty easy. Being new to this, is there anything that could be terribly wrong and not fixable making it a boat anchor? I'm going to take a look at it and see if there is something obvious. Maybe turn it over by hand to make sure nothing is striking the needle and then try to run it. Any ideas?
  9. Thank you for the information Bob & Wiz. I probably can't go wrong with either machine. It will boil down to how well they sew and have been maintained I think...price is quite a bit better on the 103 though.
  10. I have an opportunity to purchase either one of these machines. Unfortunately they are 150 miles apart so I can't compare them side by side. Is there a distinct advantage of one over the other that would help sway my decision. This is assuming that both sew well, and have been maintained. Both have clutch motors. Thank you, Bill
  11. Bob, I do have the metal pitman arm but I don't think the ball bearing came from there (although I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time, won't be the last). The reason I say this is the ball bearing was clean and shiny as if it had been wiped clean of any lubricant. The rest of the machine has been oiled thoroughly over the years and grease and oil residue is all over it. So my mystery continues. It seems to be sewing alright, though I need to adjust my tensions slightly. It will be a labor of love here for a while as I get familiar with how this machine operates. Thank you for the ideas.
  12. Thank you for the comments. I will try your suggestions. The thread is passed through the hole as you noted.
  13. Ah, I think I found a picture of what you are describing. The piece you were talking about should be removed and turned over like in this picture, is that right? This picture is from an older machine.
  14. Thank you. I am not quite sure what you mean. Do you have a picture?
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