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Ok so the story begins I purchased a semi auto pistol and ordered a IWB holster from a pretty well known holster maker in Texas 20 weeks later i received a very nice product. but now I have a small rail mounted laser and want a holster that moves the belt loop off the gun so i have seen a couple with two belt loops that look like they would be very comfortable not sure what they are called. Being pretty handy i read this forum and started thinking I can do this. so i got some remnants and started stitching got some books holster making and sewing from Al Stolman. After reading here and practicing sewing made some pencil cases and stitched a belt I am starting to play with cardboard for a template. so i was thinking for the stitch line you add the width of the gun and the leather thickness then divide it in half because the front and back will contour what if I Scroll saw the negative silhouette out and mold just the front of the holster clamping the gun down to a work bench then glue and stitch. would the stitch line be the whole thickness of gun and leather x2. has anyone tried something like this what type of glue do you use with hand stitching though it using a diamond awl and two needle.

would you cut the back after molding the front to get a the pieces to match up properly

with a rail mounted is there any tip for molding you can share

I know this topic is all over the place but i am just thinking out loud thanks for any replies

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I am totally confused. What are you scroll sawing? What kind of holster are you contemplating? Why are you clamping your pistol? Something was lost between your intent, idea, and my thought process.

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Holy 'run on sentence' batman! I think I might have an idea of what you are trying to do but I hesitate to address it 'cause I feel like there is a good chance I might be wrong.

There is alot of help to be had here, but I have a respectful suggestion. In order to access the help here you will need to take some time to more clearly articulate your question. Maybe a pic of what you currently have - and also a pic of what you want to wind up with (they could be captured or linked to from a holster maker site, etc).

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I'm a bit confused as well. I think you want to make your holster that doesn't fit the rail mounted laser fit the rail mounted laser. If you plan on getting into leatherwork, what I would do is just make an entire holster. It sounds like you got a decent holster from a decent maker, there's no sense in risking modifying it. Worst case scenario is sell it to someone else that would want one and doesn't want to wait for one, you'll likely get all your money back if not more. I wouldn't try modifying an existing holster for something like that, unless I'm way off on what your trying to do. It'll be difficult to match someone elses work with the stitching, coloring and finishing.

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First let me say thank you for the replies. I would like to make a holster Like this (i could not use the image so i put a link on the page hope it works). it looks like only the front is formed so I thought if I put the back piece of leather down on the bench then the front piece over my my gun with the accessories on it then i scrolled a wooden silhouette and clamped it on top it would stretch and for the gun into the leather. i am sorry about the confusion i don't seem to be able to explain myself very clearly.

post-18762-000677100 1294661915_thumb.jp

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First let me say thank you for the replies. I would like to make a holster Like this (i could not use the image so i put a link on the page hope it works). it looks like only the front is formed so I thought if I put the back piece of leather down on the bench then the front piece over my my gun with the accessories on it then i scrolled a wooden silhouette and clamped it on top it would stretch and for the gun into the leather. i am sorry about the confusion i don't seem to be able to explain myself very clearly.

Ok, if I am not wrong, you are asking about how to get the leather to shape like your gun? You could do a search on forming in this forum and you find many tips on how to wet the leather and form it.

While you are at it, recently while shopping on Springfield Leather's website, I saw this interesting product Kydex, which might interest you.

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First let me say thank you for the replies. I would like to make a holster Like this (i could not use the image so i put a link on the page hope it works). it looks like only the front is formed so I thought if I put the back piece of leather down on the bench then the front piece over my my gun with the accessories on it then i scrolled a wooden silhouette and clamped it on top it would stretch and for the gun into the leather. i am sorry about the confusion i don't seem to be able to explain myself very clearly.

The Brigade M11 you posted pics of is a great type of holster, but it's not flat on the backside, with the outer piece molded around the gun. Here is a great how to on how to build that type of holster -

http://leatherworker...=1

For a truly "flat molded" holster - like in the pics attached below... I recommend using a non premium piece of leather to mold around the gun first as a research piece. The reason for this is that you will likely want to make changes to the upper edge contour, particularly around the trigger guard. area. Make it a bit bigger than you think it will likely need to be. The easiest way, IMO, to do this is to lay the gun on a wooden surface (I used a small piece of 2x12), and just use tacks to hold the wet formed leather down around the gun. You could get away with just using a piece of lathe and a couple of c-clamps to hold down the top of the slide edge, but if you try to use a scroll saw cutout 'negative mold' to clamp down the trigger guard side I almost guarantee you wont like the contour of it once you butt it up to the outline of the gun & molded leather. Just use tacks on the trigger side for starters.

Cut the research piece as necessary (likely around the trigger guard) during the initial molding to get it to fit just the way you want. Let the research piece dry while still molded to the gun, then draw some outlines on it with a sharpie or other pen where you want the stitchlines to be. Then untack it, re-wet it, flatten it out, and let it dry once again. You now have a template for tracing your actual leather workpiece.

For the actual assembly you now can stitch the straight slide side stitch line and then use a 'negative mold' for the trigger guard side (that you created from the sharpie drawn trigger side outline on the research piece). Then once it's dry you can hand sew the trigger guard side. Be aware that using the 'negative mold' on the trigger side will likely create some unwanted impressions in the leather if you butt it hard against the "wall" of leather on the trigger side outline - I recommend backing it off just a bit in size and using a ball stylus for final molding on the trigger side 90 degree crease.

If you take detailed notes during the research piece phase; specifically about how far the molded outer leather has to "bunch up" in order to form around the gun, it is possible to use that information during the final build to completely sew the holster before doing the wet molding. This is only necessary if you are machine sewing, though, because it is impossible (as far as I know) to machine sew the trigger side after molding and get the stitch line butted right up to the 90 degree crease (even when using a left or right single presser foot).

I hope that's as clear as mud - good luck!

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post-13064-080065500 1294734193_thumb.jp

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