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RudolphHCI

New To Sewing Leather

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Hi all!

Im just starting with leather and I bought myself a sewing machine.

Its singer 331K16 and it was used by shoemaker before I bought it.

I was wondering that does anybody have experience on that model.

I Tried to find info on it from web but I only found sites for parts.

Im planing to start making guitar straps and dog collars at beginning and was thinking that could this be good machine for those.

I payed full 5€ for it so its not big loss if it isnt good :)

And sorry for english. Havent been writing in english forums for sometime :)

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Hi all!

Im just starting with leather and I bought myself a sewing machine.

Its singer 331K16 and it was used by shoemaker before I bought it.

I was wondering that does anybody have experience on that model.

I Tried to find info on it from web but I only found sites for parts.

Im planing to start making guitar straps and dog collars at beginning and was thinking that could this be good machine for those.

I payed full 5€ for it so its not big loss if it isnt good :)

And sorry for english. Havent been writing in english forums for sometime :)

Welcome to the site. I can't help you much on the info you are needing but someone on here will certainly be able to help you.

Enjoy all the loads of info available here and ask questions.

ferg

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I looked up the Singer 331k16 and found that it is a roller foot machine. Unless yours has been converted, it has a large roller foot, with a single row feed dog. This machine is for light weight leather, like shoe uppers. It will probably be limited to sewing no more than approximately 3/16" of soft to medium temper leather, with a size 18 needle, using #69 bonded nylon thread. Perhaps it will handle #92 thread, if you can fit it with a #20 needle. Typically, machines for the shoe industry use #69 thread and a #18 needle, sewing together about 6 to 8 ounces of leather. I had a similar roller foot machine and it was good for lightweight work under 1/4", but not so good on belt leather.

I sew guitar straps, using a walking foot machine and #138 bonded nylon thread. I wouldn't recommend using any thinner thread. I don't think your machine can use that size thread (in my opinion), which requires a #22 or 23 needle.

I don't believe that this is the machine you want to sew dog collars on. Collars are put under tremendous stress as dogs try to break away and chase other animals. Number 69 thread only has an 11 pound breaking point, which is inadequate for this kind of usage. You are going to need a machine capable of sewing hard veg-tan belt or bridle leather, possibly double layered back to back, exceeding 1/4" thickness. Add the fold-overs for Dee rings and you are up to almost 3/8".

I always used number 277, to 346 thread on dog collars, to match the strength required to withstand the tugging that big dogs can apply. These thread sizes require a needle of sizes 25 to 27. You have just crossed over beyond the common industrial upholstery grade machines into the world of harness stitchers. Congratulations and welcome to the Big Dog club!

Save some more of the pennies, then start looking over the specs on the big cylinder arm machines. Heck, for collars and leashes you can even use a big flatbed machine, like an Adler 204-370 (or clone). One of our members recently had one for sale in the Eastern US. It sews 3/4" of leather, with a #25 needle, using #277 thread, as set up. See the Used Sewing Machines For Sale section of the LWF.

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Sorry forgot to thank for that info.

Helped alot so Thanks :)

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