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How big a press do I need to make holsters and sheaths?

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I am looking to get a press in order to mold holsters and knife sheaths. What I need to know is how big of a press do I need. I have seen hydraulic presses at Harbor Freight in 20, 12, and 6 ton models. Do I need that much pressure?

Would one of these presses used to mold kydex knife sheaths work? I make mostly knife sheaths but I would like to be able to make the occasional holster as well.

kypres1.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Nick

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You would be wasting your time and money with the one you have pictured. If you're set on getting one of those, let me know. I have one I'd sell to you for say $25 + shipping. It's just gathering dust under one of my work benches.

There's a number of folks here who have a variety of styles of presses. Most use what's readily available around them. I use the one offered by Weaver, as it's a space saver model, and you can put a good size hydraulic jack into it. It comes with a 6-ton jack.

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I am looking to get a press in order to mold holsters and knife sheaths. What I need to know is how big of a press do I need. I have seen hydraulic presses at Harbor Freight in 20, 12, and 6 ton models. Do I need that much pressure?

Would one of these presses used to mold kydex knife sheaths work? I make mostly knife sheaths but I would like to be able to make the occasional holster as well.

kypres1.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Nick

Nick,

I asked this question to "Boomstick" holsters here on the forum, I think his name is Jeff. He has answered on a thread. Go to the upper right hand corner and find "Search" and type in "PRESS" This will take you to the correct thread that has a lot of information about this and shows what he is using. He turns out some great holsters so I will follow his advise and am putting togeter a set up like he has. The press' are not very expensive and if you can pick them up from Grizzly or Harbor Freight they are under $130.00

I have all the part numbers, phone #'s, address, ect. for the gum rubber pads and info on press' on another computer I can post it later or P.M. it to you if you would like.

:cheers:

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20 Ton with 1" thick gum rubber is what I have read about probably the most. Never Ever use a real gun without a magazine in it as it has been noted that over exuberant application of pressure has bent the grip area making it a mold rather than a functional weapon. I use a food saver vacuum bag system that was gathering dust in the kitchen cabinet, works pretty well but some bags have a cross hatch pattern embossed on the inside that transfers to the damp leather. I solved that by placing the holster in a smooth bag first.

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K-man is on the money about the press you have pictured; It is useless for anything other than Kydex. Weaver has a pre-built press for somewhere around $300 if you aren't really handy or you don't have access to a welder.To be honest, a press is only necessary if you need to save time - All they do is expose the lines that you need to bone, and you can accomplish the same thing with your thumbs. I really recommend that you stick with doing it all by hand if you are persuing holstermaking as a hobby, because that is the best way to learn how to improve your skills. (I could see a press being helpful if you have a physical limitation that makes hand molding difficult.)

Edited by BOOMSTICKHolsters

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Grunt,

I have to agree with the other guys. That press would not be a wise choice. I've posted a photo of my Weaver Press. I haven't found the need to increase it's 6 ton press weight.

Randy

Resize5.jpg

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I too would like to get a press when I have my shop setup to my liking. For now though, I use a pretty crude method. I bought a couple of 1'x1'x.5" sponge gum pads from the hardware store and double stacked them. Then I found some old shelf boards...a top and bottom. I place my sponges between the boards. Of course, the holster goes in there like a sandwich. Now for the good part, the "press" I use is my mighty 110lbs standing on the top board and I let gravity do the rest. Yeah yeah, no laughing! Gotta do what you gotta do :P I have found by removing the top board I get greater definition in the contours of the gun as I can apply pressure to the angles and curves vs just the flat board on top.

lol Really though, you don't need an elaborate setup to get the job done. As the guys have said, thumbs and hands work just as well. The other factor is the leather. I have found that HO is extremely easy to mold compared to what I used prior.

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I can see you now teetering atop a stack of holsters :rofl: If you get some threaded rod and washers and nuts for each corner you could insert the holster and pads the tighten down the nuts equally, I made something like that a couple of years back to compress the front shocks of a bmw motorcycle I redid, as they needed to be rebuilt and I could not find new ones.

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pillows.jpg

It was working just fine until someone slipped a pea under one of the holsters in the stack

Sorry, I just couldn't help it after reading Jordan's post.

(pic is copyright of double you double you double you dot minutus dot net)

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I currently use a 1909 wood workers vice (large and smooth surfaces and weights about 50 lbs) that has 1.5" screw that with the 1" gum rubber works great for most of my needs. I hand bone the leather after a few minutes in the vice.

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Thanks for all the input folks! I am still mulling over which option to go with. At least I now have a little more info.

Nick

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Jordon, could you give more details on your vacum bag idea. Do you just put the gun in the holster and such way? How long do you let it set in there? I have one and would like to give it a try?

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I have wet it, worked the pistol into the holster the put the whole thing in a vacuum bag suck out the air, work it with my thumbs and a tandy slicker or whatever is handy, about 10 min. then take it out remove pistol slowly and let it air dry overnight. Some of the bags have an embossed pattern that transfers to the leather. I put the holster in an open ziplock bag first if I want the leather smooth.

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