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Lefty1972

What Next?

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Ok, I am making an avenger style pattern for my Ruger Alaskan. Another member was kind enough to send me the pattern. I have cut out the pattern, cut the belt holes, punched the stitch holes for the main belt strap, and dyed both the outside and inside. I dyed the inside just so it would not be such a contract to the outside.

These are my questions:

1. Do I need t apply neetsfoot oil to the project now?

2. Do I dye and burnish the edges now, or do I do that after I sew it?

3. I don't have anything to hold the holster so I can sew it, so do I use contact cement to get it to basically stay together and then do my hand sewing?

Sorry for all the questions, as this is my very first leather project. I am having so much fun, and I am glad I decided to do this as a hobby.

-Todd

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Will you be detail molding the holster to your gun? If so, I'd suggest applying the neatsfoot only after the holster has been wet, formed, and dried in an oven at about 130 degrees for about 40 minutes to stiffen the leather. Even if you're not forming it, I'd still only apply the oil about 24 hours prior to when you're actually ready to put your final finish coats on it.

Don't dye/burnish the edges until after you've sewn it.

Without seeing your pattern, I can't really say for sure, but it sounds like you'll definitely want to run a border of glue along where you'll be sewing the holster together. How are you going to hold the holster still when you run your awl through the leather to hand-stitch it? Or are you pre-drilling the holes in a drill press?

Once the holster is glued together, just prior to stitching, you'll want to trim/sand the edges flush & vertical - this way, you'll be sure your stitch line runs a consistent distance from the edge. If you sew it before trimming the edges flush, you might have to trim too much away for a flush edge and get too close to your stitch line. Once sanded, run an edger over the edges to round them off, then dampen the edges with water to smooth/burnish it. You don't want to dye prior to an initial attempt at burnishing, as the dye will be MUCH more difficult to apply to the rough surface of the edges. Once you've dyed the edges, let it set for a couple hours, then come back with Gum Tragacanth for a final "fluff & buff" on the edges to burnish/shine them up.

You'll probably be ready for a coat of neatsfoot oil at this point - but only apply it to the smooth side. Let it set for 24 hours, then apply your first coat of finish.

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Will you be detail molding the holster to your gun? If so, I'd suggest applying the neatsfoot only after the holster has been wet, formed, and dried in an oven at about 130 degrees for about 40 minutes to stiffen the leather. Even if you're not forming it, I'd still only apply the oil about 24 hours prior to when you're actually ready to put your final finish coats on it.

Don't dye/burnish the edges until after you've sewn it.

Without seeing your pattern, I can't really say for sure, but it sounds like you'll definitely want to run a border of glue along where you'll be sewing the holster together. How are you going to hold the holster still when you run your awl through the leather to hand-stitch it? Or are you pre-drilling the holes in a drill press?

Once the holster is glued together, just prior to stitching, you'll want to trim/sand the edges flush & vertical - this way, you'll be sure your stitch line runs a consistent distance from the edge. If you sew it before trimming the edges flush, you might have to trim too much away for a flush edge and get too close to your stitch line. Once sanded, run an edger over the edges to round them off, then dampen the edges with water to smooth/burnish it. You don't want to dye prior to an initial attempt at burnishing, as the dye will be MUCH more difficult to apply to the rough surface of the edges. Once you've dyed the edges, let it set for a couple hours, then come back with Gum Tragacanth for a final "fluff & buff" on the edges to burnish/shine them up.

You'll probably be ready for a coat of neatsfoot oil at this point - but only apply it to the smooth side. Let it set for 24 hours, then apply your first coat of finish.

Thanks for the tips. I am not going to wet form the holster (this time), and I did buy some Tandy Leather Glue to stick it together. I think I will glue it, then drill the holes, and then sew. The only main concern regarding burnishing, is part of the holster folds over and once it is sewn, I won't be able to burnish that one part. Should I do that first?

-Todd

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Yes - any piece you won't have easy access to later should be burnished (and dyed if you want that look) prior to sewing onto the substrate. For reference, here is one that I had to dye and burnish prior to gluing/sewing onto the holster body.

Side note - notice the "fuzzy" dye edge particularly on the magazine pouch lip that sticks up past the top of the holster - I didn't get a good burnish on that edge prior to dying - thus, the dye bled into the flesh too much and gave me a nasty inconsistent black dye job on the edge..

1076935483_BAevj-L.jpg

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Thanks again! BTW - Those holsters of yours look very nice. I hope mine turns out half as good!

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