KGeorge

I am about to start a rope can cover for a friend but I don't have the can itself to work with for now. I really would like some advice on what weight leather to use and about average size for a rope can? I don't rope so I'm not sure how much the cans varry. Thanks!!!

I was wondering if anyone could tell or show me how to attach a headstall buckle with latigo lace like on this headstall? I usually sew them in but I'd like to be able to change the buckle if i need to and I'm not a big fan of rivets or chicago screws.

It's progressing well! I'm very pleased with it so far although it's not perfect. Thank you for the tip on skiving the inside of the rigging instead of that bevel. That seams like it would keep moisture/sweat out better as well. I fully plan on cutting an arc I just did the flat line on the pattern to save a little time. As far as the second rigging goes I was planning to do short jockeys and skirts. Something like this... but the rear rigging may still be too short? Here are some pictures of what I have so far. I'm hoping the ground seat angle is good. It feels good when I sit in it. I have one more piece to put on as far as the ground seat goes.

I was wondering if anyone could share their process for tooling the gullet? I can't figure out a good way to do it. Would you tool it after cementing it in and while it's still cased on the saddle tree or fit it in let it dry and then take it out flatten it just enough to tool it then fit it back it permanently?

Thank you very much! This is the pattern I have for my rigging so far. I know there is not a ton of room at the top where the stirrup leather goes through but I left that in the pattern so that when I get it lined and together I can skive it down to an angle to make a smooth transmission for the stirrup leather. What do you guys think? Please ignore the trash on the deck in the back ground lol.

Thank you, that makes total sense. So if I'm using 13-15 oz skirting the top layer could be about 10 oz and the lining could be around 6-7 oz? And I've heard of lining the rigging with either veg tan or latigo. I would think latigo would be stronger but I know it stretches more. What do you line yours with?

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I should line part of the rigging or the whole thing? I'm using the stohlman design so it wraps around the cantle and laces together. Im guessing lining the whole rigging would be ideal for strength but I know it would add a lot of bulk under the rear jockeys? I can't find anything in the saddle making material I have or the web so I'm not sure what to do.

Hope everyone is having a Merry Christmas! I apologize for taking so long to thank everyone for their replies and to respond. Life gets in the way sometimes and especially around this time of year. All replies were insightful and very helpful! Here is what I have now that some adjustments have been made. I chose the 7/8th position. I also wanted to ask about compressing the rigging. Has anyone done that? I read it makes it stronger, tool better and more dense to it takes a beating better. Is all of it true? And I'm guessing the compressing is done after the pieces are cut but before they are tooled and sewn together?

Here are the original pictires. I didn't realize you guys couldn't see them. Hubby had to fix it for me lol.

This is the look I'm trying to go for. I like the curve the front of the flat plate rigging has. The only things on this I would change are the tooling (more of it ) and make the skirts in the front drop a little more. Again any comments would be very appreciated.

So I'm working on my first saddle and I'm trying to get the rigging pattern right before I start cutting into leather. This is what I have so far. RangerRiggingPicture2 RangerRiggingPicture3 I started with the Al Stohlman style flat plate rigging in his saddle making encyclopedia books. I have modified it to the shape I like and for the back half to fit the curve of the cantle since it was way off before. I'm not sure if its full position or 7/8th or whatever it is but it seems to line up with Ranger's girth line and it seems to pull well on the saddle tree which is what I'm looking for. So the questions I have: Is the rigging too far forward? Is if too far up the swell? (I can always take leather out rather than put it back) And last but not least: If the rigging ring (I'm using Jeremiah Watt's inskirt rigging ring rather than the rigging plate) will end up too far down after it is installed in the rigging leather? Any help or comments would be very much apreciated! RangerRiggingPicture2 RangerRiggingPicture3

It defenetly makes sense. Thank you! I think you did a really nice job with that horn. I hope mine looks as good!

I am new to saddle making and I am starting construction on a wade saddle on a Rick Reid tree here soon. I've read lots of articles on here about a wade horn covering being different than the usual metal (and other non wood post) horn wrap. The only method I have seen/have instructions on is in the al stohlman saddle making encyclopedia which (if I'm right) is the method used to cover metal (and other non wood post) horns. I understand the cap part of covering the wood post horn but I'm not understanding how to cover/wrap the neck and be able to sew all around the horn cap. Could someone clue me in on this method? I'd sure appreciate it!