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STERLING

Leatherprep

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What do you all recomend for preping leather after molding for a better coler app? I use fiebings die,normally don't have this problem but ahave noticed it more so when i do more hand molding . and what to use to lighten this type of die also ,,thanks

Edited by STERLING

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I use a solvent to prep before dye. I used to use the feibings de-glazer, which is basically acetone, and keytones with a little methanol added for flavor. Pretty nasty stuff. You can use the dye thinner as a prep solution also. Also if there is a auto body supply house near you you can use body solvent.

But with any of these, remember PPE is the most important.

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What do you all recomend for preping leather after molding for a better coler app? I use fiebings die,normally don't have this problem but ahave noticed it more so when i do more hand molding . and what to use to lighten this type of die also ,,thanks

The old grumpy guy here: I dye my holsters prior to construction, that way there is no problem (that I have encountered) with wet molding doing things to the dye job. After dying, All parts sit for a day to ensure total drying, but I live in generally warm, low humidity area, humid and/or cooler climates may take more time. For Fiebing's dyes (Pro Oil or Leather Dye) use denatured alcohol. Mike

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The old grumpy guy here: I dye my holsters prior to construction, that way there is no problem (that I have encountered) with wet molding doing things to the dye job. After dying, All parts sit for a day to ensure total drying, but I live in generally warm, low humidity area, humid and/or cooler climates may take more time. For Fiebing's dyes (Pro Oil or Leather Dye) use denatured alcohol. Mike

so you do all die before you mold and it doesnt enterfer with molding ,i have yet to try it that way ,was not sure if the leather would absorb water or not ,i will try that next time ,thank you

I use a solvent to prep before dye. I used to use the feibings de-glazer, which is basically acetone, and keytones with a little methanol added for flavor. Pretty nasty stuff. You can use the dye thinner as a prep solution also. Also if there is a auto body supply house near you you can use body solvent.

But with any of these, remember PPE is the most important.

i wondered if i could use regular thinner or not i do body work ,for a liveing ,didnt know i i could use it or not ,cool thanks for the info.

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I use a solvent to prep before dye. I used to use the feibings de-glazer, which is basically acetone, and keytones with a little methanol added for flavor. Pretty nasty stuff. You can use the dye thinner as a prep solution also. Also if there is a auto body supply house near you you can use body solvent.

But with any of these, remember PPE is the most important.

hey i have another ? surface prep is this what you are talking about....

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so you do all die before you mold and it doesnt enterfer with molding ,i have yet to try it that way ,was not sure if the leather would absorb water or not ,i will try that next time ,thank you

i wondered if i could use regular thinner or not i do body work ,for a liveing ,didnt know i i could use it or not ,cool thanks for the info.

Again, FWIW; Regular mineral spirits (paint thinner) isn't recommended. It has a bunch more junk in it that does strange things to Fiebing's dyes and leather. Denatured alcohol can be had wherever you get paint thinner. Mike

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hey i have another ? surface prep is this what you are talking about....

Yes.

Also, when I meant body solvent I did not mean paint thinner. Mineral spirits will discolor the leather. Body solvent is a prep solvent used to degrease car body surfaces prior to paint, or prime. Common name is xylene.

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Again, FWIW; Regular mineral spirits (paint thinner) isn't recommended. It has a bunch more junk in it that does strange things to Fiebing's dyes and leather. Denatured alcohol can be had wherever you get paint thinner. Mike

ooook thanks AGAIN must not have caught it the first time

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