First Holster

[doug1221]

Well this is my first attempt at making a holster only the second leather item I have made. Figured I would post a couple pics and let Big O, Katsass, and the rest of yall critique away. I know I need alot of work on my edges and stitching and the gun is riding to high but any other tips anyone could share would be greatly appreciated. It was supposed to be a small of the back holster but doubt it will ever get used as it ended up being a little unstable with the ride height.

[RWP]

well its kinda hard to critique because of the size of the pics but aside from what you mentioned i have to say GREAT job on a first holster i wish my first holster had come out half as well as t hat one keep up the work!!

[doug1221]

Yeah sorry about the pics couldn't find the camera and took them on a brand new phone, didn't realize they were that huge lol

[doug1221]

Didn't work trying to shrink the image, guess I will keep messing with it

Attempt #3

Attempt #4

Edited May 22, 2011 by doug1221

[doug1221]

Here's the back resized sorry about the crazy original sizes

[Big O]

The craftsmanship looks pretty decent for a first try. Stitch line is impressively close around the trigger guard.

Not sure what you're using to make the holes. Diamond punch?

Leather looks like it might be a little thin for the main body, and the dye looks splotchy. Eco-Flo?

The biggest problem I see is the design concept itself. Looks like you EXECUTED your concept very well, but it's the design part that has a fatal (LITERALLY) flaw.

You've made a small of the back "cavalry draw" holster. About six inches into the draw sequence, you'll be taking aim at your right kidney. Try flipping it 180 degrees longitudinally, so that the butt of the pistol is up, not down. It's nearly as concealable, and both easier to grasp and safer to draw.

I've recently discovered that the Avenger design can be fairly easily modified into an SOB holster.

[doug1221]

Glad you had some time to take a look Big O, the posts from you, katsass, and lobo are probably responsible for about 90% of what little I have actually figured out (stitch close to the trigger gaurd lol). As far as the design, it was about 3 am when I laid it out then started building and realized it was all messed up but figured if nothing else it was good practice for some of the more fundamental skills. Definitely a good point on flipping it over, would probably help with the top heavy sagging issue also. The leather, I think they may have given me 5-6 instead of 7-8, the store was pretty busy that day and I was about clueless. The dye is the Eco-flo Antique mahogany gel, blotchy very well could have just been my lack of experience though not real sure on what dye is the best to use yet. I was punching the holes with the diamond tip awl I think it's called, was the advice I got from the young guy at the store not sure if I was pressing to hard or using the wrong tool. So any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated so maybe the next one will not look as bad, had a blast making the thing but with slight OCD and perfectionist personality I always have to make progress or I go nuts.

[katsass]

Well this is my first attempt at making a holster only the second leather item I have made. Figured I would post a couple pics and let Big O, Katsass, and the rest of yall critique away. I know I need alot of work on my edges and stitching and the gun is riding to high but any other tips anyone could share would be greatly appreciated. It was supposed to be a small of the back holster but doubt it will ever get used as it ended up being a little unstable with the ride height.

Good morning from the grump: First and foremost, your design is, as BigO states, 'fatally' flawed!, but you already know that. If you think about it, the SOB type holster is nothing more that a strong side holster (with a good bit of forward cant to it) moved to the back of the wearer. The gun butt will be facing UP. That's it. Actually, a good solid little holster like the pictured one for my little M-36 S&W will work well as an SOB.....with the proper cant and a wide belt loop As to your stitching, you have a very good stitch line, BUT your stitching awl looks to be too big, and your angle in it's use is wrong. If you look at your awl, notice that it has four flat sides. The top leading edge should always be parallel to you line of stitching. At the risk of getting someone upset I'll try to enclose a pic from AL STOHLMAN'S book, "How to Make Holsters". Of course all credit for the pic goes to Mr. Stohlman's fine effort in his attempt to teach the proper way to use the awl. (notice this is a disclaimer showing this isn't a piece of my work or an attempt to plagiarize Mr. Stohlman in any way, just making use of his work in a way that I think he would appreciate) Since your pics are so large, I can't tell what your stitch length is, but a good, general purpose size is 6 stitches per inch ..... ie. use a #6 overstitch to mark your spacing, then to FINISH up your work..... after all....that's why it's called an OVERstitch.. As to dye, I haven't found a satisfactory water based dye worth a HOO-HAW .... with the possible exception of my own walnut dye, which takes so much time to produce that it isn't much worth the trouble. Try Angelus or Fiebing's dyes, I personally use Fiebings Pro Oil Dye almost exclusively. As also pointed out, your leather may be too light .....it's better to be a bit heavy on your leather choice than too light, again IMO. That said, the molding, for my tastes and sensibilities, is EXACTLY what I like to see! It's the way holsters were done for one hell of a long time until the idea of 'boning' reared it's (again IMO) ugly head. A holster molded and properly fitted to the gun (as is yours seems to be) needs no boning for added retention. Many times, boning detracts from the aesthetics of a good, clean design .....IMO (AGAIN). Overall, you are doing well, keep it up. As a suggestion, you might get hold of Al Stohlman's book on how to make holsters, work out a few basic, solid working rigs before you expand into some of the more difficult designs ......... the basics will always be there as good, serviceable pieces of the holster makers art(?) and teach you a lot. My copy is over 40 years old...and I still refer to it at times. Hope this helps a bit and that you continue working to produce good,solid holsters. You are on your way. Mike

[doug1221]

Well as usual your post was very helpful Mike. I did pick up the "How to Make Holsters" book a couple days ago, it has been an excellent resource. Apparently I need to look more closely at the pictures before I do things though lol. Is there a specific size/type of awl I should look for? I think I will put some of that Fiebings Pro Oil Dye on order and try it out, hate to wait for things to ship but the only leather supply store I have found in my area is the Leather Factory and it seems to carry Eco-flo almost exclusively. Also if you have any suggestions for a finishing/sealer product to throw on after the dye that would be great.

[katsass]

Well as usual your post was very helpful Mike. I did pick up the "How to Make Holsters" book a couple days ago, it has been an excellent resource. Apparently I need to look more closely at the pictures before I do things though lol. Is there a specific size/type of awl I should look for? I think I will put some of that Fiebings Pro Oil Dye on order and try it out, hate to wait for things to ship but the only leather supply store I have found in my area is the Leather Factory and it seems to carry Eco-flo almost exclusively. Also if you have any suggestions for a finishing/sealer product to throw on after the dye that would be great.

Well Doug, I use an OLD Osborne saddlers awl ...... slightly less than an eighth of an inch wide. To me, if you can pull the needle through the leather by hand, it's too big an awl. I always have to pull my stitches through with an old pair of lacing pliers. I use size '1' needles. There are some good manufacturers of awls, but I've had mine for over 40 years and if I had to buy another I really don't know who to go to. I'd have to ask some of the other makers to suggest a good one. Yes Tandy seems to have gone completely 'GREEN', they don't seem to carry anything with solvent in it. But, it is better to wait a bit for a delivery than to disappointed in the outcome when using an inferior product. At times my customers have to wait for their product but, I have an advantage because being old means that nobody expects you to do anything in a hurry. My finish is, and has been for years, a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glow' (the floor polish) and water sprayed on with an airbrush. It can be applied with a slightly damp sponge, rag, dauber etc. ..... I just prefer to use an airbrush. It works best on warm leather. Apply sparingly and allow to absorb into the leather ....dry for an hour or so then apply another light coat. After drying I apply a small amount of neutral Kiwi shoe polish ....... rubbed in thoroughly with bare fingers, then buffed with an old washcloth. Mike

[RWP]

usually when i finish one i use a 50/50 misture of resolene and good ol water i tried straight resoline and it was just wayyyy too strong as mike said it can be applied by airbrush dauber etc. so far i've been pleased with the results. which reminds me i need to post on here!

[Big O]

Doug, don't make the mistake of lumping me in with katsass and Lobo. They're the experts here. I've only been doing this for about a year now.

....and most of what little I've learned, I've learned from them and others right here on this forum.

I've got MUCH more experience in using holsters than making them.

So, if there's any conflict, listen to THEM instead of me.

I started out using a 4-prong diamond punch, then went to drilling holes with a Dremel, and finally caved to Mike's advice and started using an awl. There's a learning curve there, but once you get on top of that curve, it's the easiest and BEST way to make the holes. Also much quieter. At least until you make a neat, diamond-shaped hole in a finger......

[katsass]

Doug, don't make the mistake of lumping me in with katsass and Lobo. They're the experts here. I've only been doing this for about a year now.

....and most of what little I've learned, I've learned from them and others right here on this forum.

I've got MUCH more experience in using holsters than making them.

So, if there's any conflict, listen to THEM instead of me.

I started out using a 4-prong diamond punch, then went to drilling holes with a Dremel, and finally caved to Mike's advice and started using an awl. There's a learning curve there, but once you get on top of that curve, it's the easiest and BEST way to make the holes. Also much quieter. At least until you make a neat, diamond-shaped hole in a finger......

BigO (notice that I didn't shorten things down and call you BO): Re: holes in one's fingers. I don't know who the hell it was, but a wise man once said that just because you haven't recently been cut by a sharp knife, you can throw away the band-aids. I got lots of band-aids. Mike

[doug1221]

So I was working on my next holster and had gone down to Leather Factory to get a smaller awl and wouldn't you know the thing snapped making the first hole. Being new to this it very well could've been my fault but I figured I would ask if the metal tools from their stores are usually good quality or should I be getting these types of things elsewhere?

[Nooj]

Hi Doug- nice job on your first holster. There's not much I can say as far as critique, following the advice given by those more established and experienced leatherworkers, lol. As far as leather thickness- one of these great holster makers uses 4-5 or 5-6 oz leather bonded with the flesh sides together, giving a more finished/ lined look to the inside, and a more robust thickness/weight; So if you're unsatisfied with the stiffness or thickness you may try that. (I thought it was Katsass that does that, but it's late, and I'm tired, so I don't want to put words in anyone's mouth and be wrong; resulting in my foot in my mouth).

Like RWP, I've been using a 50/50 or 60/40 mix of resolene and water- it makes it much more friendly to use when you mix it with water. Less streaks and a slightly longer working time, in my experience. It does take several coats in order to get a glossier finish though; but that depends on how glossy you want it. I do at least two just to make sure I've covered it all and it ends up as a slightly satin finish (I apply with a wool dauber, allow to sit for a minute or two, then wipe it down with a clean cloth, leaving the surface slightly wet but even looking- then let it dry... might not be the right way but it works for me).

I think your holster looks nice- I'm working on a Ruger LCR holster myself. Keep up the good work :-)

Nooj