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Ellen

English Bridle Leather

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I would like some input on usability of English Bridle Leather, say, for a handbag or briefcase. I tried this leather, but it seems to me that if it finished by common ways (Resolene, or Super Shene, or Tan Cote) it too easily takes fingerntail prints, what is not desirable for a bag that takes a lot of use and abuse. From what I read, this leather is considered one of the best, if not best, for handbags, but I have by doubts after personal encounter.

Maybe if requires different finish, or additional treatment from tannery (which one then?).

Any insights will be appreciated. My experience is limited to russet and drum dyed vegtan.

Thank you.

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I use a lot of bridle leather and have made cases and bags from it.

I use no finish other than a wax polish once the article is complete.

Depending on the bag style and size you may want to use a shoulder rather than a side or you could try bag hide (sometimes called girth hide) which is a little more flexible and doesn't have such a waxy finish.

Gary

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English Bridle is stuffed with oils, so if you warm up the leather a little above room temperature, some of these oils will come to the surface. At that point you can polish with a piece of sheep's wool.

I would like some input on usability of English Briddle Leather, say, for a handbag or briefcase. I tried this leather, but it seems to me that if it finished by common ways (Resolene, or Super Shene, or Tan Cote) it too easily takes fingerntail prints, what is not desirable for a bag that takes a lot of use and abuse. From what I read, this leather is considered one of the best, if not best, for handbags, but I have by doubts after personal encounter.

Maybe if requires different finish, or additional treatment from tannery (which one then?).

Any insights will be appreciated. My experience is limited to russet and drum dyed vegtan.

Thank you.

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Real English bridle leather is much denser than W+C or Weaver's and therefore does not get marks as easily as those two. It will show scratches, but not deep gouges like I think you're talking about. I don't know of any way to make soft leather into harder leather. No silk purse from a sow's ear.

Good luck,

Kevin

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Real English bridle leather is much denser than W+C or Weaver's and therefore does not get marks as easily as those two. It will show scratches, but not deep gouges like I think you're talking about. I don't know of any way to make soft leather into harder leather. No silk purse from a sow's ear.

Good luck,

Kevin

Amm, you know, I didn't buy a sow's ear with a purpose to make a silk purse... I had heard a good things about English briddle leather, about this tannery, and tried to get a better leather. And these are not a deep gouges, just a fingernail marks...

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I'm sorry, I wasn't trying to be a smartass, just to say that real English bridle leather and US english bridle leather are so different, you can't get there from here. I wish you could, we just spent $1200 on four English rein backs and that's not a whole lot of footage, but there's not that much waste either.

Kevin

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I'm sorry, I wasn't trying to be a smartass, just to say that real English bridle leather and US english bridle leather are so different, you can't get there from here. I wish you could, we just spent $1200 on four English rein backs and that's not a whole lot of footage, but there's not that much waste either.

Kevin

Hey Kevin, have you ever tried Ken Chapman? he lives close enough to me, Ive been down and picked out leather a couple times, Its not sedgwicks but still pretty good! I send someone your way for a saddle the other day, gave them your email did they get a hold of you?

-Andrew

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Hey Andrew, yes I've tried Ken, the bridle is a little greasy, but cleans up ok, I use his chrome middles for billets. I don't see the e-mails unless they are specifically for me.

Kevin

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