Wizcrafts

@Dannyofalltrades Your video was uploaded in a file format that's not recognized by our board software and cannot be displayed. Please re-save the photo as a .jpg or a .png and re-upload it. Use a small enough resolution to keep the file size under the forum limit. I find that 1:1 and 3x4 produce suitable small size photos.

Post a photo of the foot that's on your Juki. Use the smallest size to stay within our upload limit. I either use a double toe foot with a narrower right toe, or a single left toe foot to sew in zippers.

Estoy de acuerdo. Normalmente uso una guía de borde desplegable en mi grapadora pesada Cowboy cuando necesito coser a lo largo de los bordes de un proyecto. Si está en el camino en las curvas, lo levanto hasta que esa área haya pasado, luego lo dejo caer según sea necesario.

The blanket foot set includes the original 3/8 inch wide feed dog. The canvas will probably get pushed into it by the inside foot. The job is better sewn on a standard walking foot machine. That fact aside, I did write a blog article a few years ago about dumbing down a Cobra Class 4 to sew thin work with thin thread. It might help you, especially if you end up having to use the wide feeder and feet. No matter what feed dog and throat plate you install, I recommend only using a round point 7x3 needle for canvas. A Schmetz S point will slice the fibers and weaken the seams.

I added a box style reducer to a cylinder arm machine. It has 4:1 reduction. I bought it from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It required two new type 3L v-belts. I recommend locating it in a manner that lets you tilt the machine back to oil it. It can be tricky getting the right position while still clearing the oil pan and wiring. Also, adjusting the belt tension is a bit tricky. Once done, it is usually good for the life of the two belts.

Conversely, without the brake pad in play, when you back off the GO pedal, it doesn't stop on a dime, but can keep rolling on if you were already sewing fast. I often floor my machines when sewing long straight lines, especially when I'm using an edge guide. Even my CB4500 will run on if the brake pad is removed.

Clutch motors have a brake that is moved in or out of contact as the lever on the bottom is pulled down. The brake engages when the control lever is all the way up. You can adjust the position of the floor pedal to ensure that the brake engages when you lift your foot, or press your heel down. There is an adjustable coil spring on the lever that determines how much pressure is applied to the brake. This adjustment is separate from the clutch slack adjuster bolt.

If you load the bobbin to flow with the shuttle, it can run on. This is why some shuttles have enough vertical space for a star shaped anti-backlash spring to be dropped in. This fingers grab the holes in the bobbin and keep it from freespinning. But, some shuttles may be too limited to allow that spring in. You can buy a pack of them and see how it works out in your machine. If there's enough vertical space, you can keep loading the bobbins inline with the rotation. The spring does add some bobbin tension though.

I usually load the bobbin counterclockwise in these top loading shuttles. For one thing, this reverse angle forces the bobbin thread to lay firmly inside the tension spring and exit only at the designated place. Second, it counteracts the bobbin run on problem that happens when you stop abruptly. If the bobbin is feeding in the same direction as the shuttle is spinning, it can keep rotating a while, unloading loose thread inside the shuttle and possible getting it caught on the top locking clamp.

All of the top loading machine are temperamental about holding back both starting threads when you start sewing, plus, not pulling in the loose starting bobbin thread as you sew around an item. Failure to hold back the starting threads almost guarantees a jammed shuttle within a couple stitches. This has been my experience with Singer and Juki walking foot machines I have owned o9r operated since 1984.

I used to own Union Lockstitch machines. The first one had wax pots for the top and bobbin thread. I asked a harness maker what they used and was recommended to use Ceroxylon liquid wax. I still have some left in a quart bottle. It looks and feels like transparent thinned rubber glue. I only used it with Barbour's glaced Irish linen thread. You can buy it from Campbell-Randall Company, in Texas.

It's a piece of cake if you are a pedal steel player, like me! You have a movable foot pedal connected to the motor with either a rod or a chain. Adjust the height and angle to suit you right or left foot. I keep mine on the right. Mind you, I also like knee levers. Some of my machines have a knee lever.

Da nada! La mayoría de las guías de borde tienen rodillos que corren contra el borde del trabajo. El rodillo le permite moverse sin ser arrastrado hacia atrás por la fricción contra una simple pieza de acero.

This reminds me of something Lisa Sorrell said in her video about her curved needle machine. Lisa makes bespoke Cowboy boots for a living and showed herself sewing on the soles on a 12 series machine. She plays "Last Letter Home" by the Gibson Brothers in the background because it makes the machine happier. She also pointed out a scar/dimple on her throat where the needle broke one time and embedded its tip in her throat. She warned against pushing the boot or shoe which can throw the alignment off between the awl and the needle. The sole use of the curved needle machine is to sew soles onto boots and shoes. No pun intended!

@NolyGil; Ese dispositivo se llama "guía de borde". In English: That device is called an "edge guide."