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wnkleather

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About wnkleather

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  1. I wet form most of my bags/cases and can use lighter weight veg tan by thermoforming Kydex or Boltaron over mold, then wet form leather over Kydex and mold. Kydex can be sewn through by using one size larger needle than normal and the right machine. 0.060" or even 0.080" thickness makes 4 oz. leather very rigid.
  2. Since seeing the method in one of Stohlman's books, I've been using a rawhide strip molded around d-rings (and other hardware), the rawhide being inside (and hidden by) the tab/strap/whatever is attaching hardware to item. Found it to be incredibly strong and durable. Does anybody still use this technique?
  3. I am also in Chicago and saw 2 year old web page - must be disbanded, right? Some nice work in the gallery, though.
  4. When my projects got too large and hands too weak to continue hand stitching I researched (as you are) all I could before purchasing my first machine. My initial confusion came from wanting one machine to sew all of my projects, from 3oz to 20oz. No single machine can do it all. I now have three and and am looking for # 4, mainly because I prefer to leave a machine set up to sew a certain needle/thread, without having to take time to make adjustments (I guess I'm lazy). If you will not be making saddles/harness you will never sew 1" of leather. Even 1/2" is alot of leather. That being said, you probably want a machine that is capable of sewing 1/2". Try a cylinder arm with a flat bed attachment - it gives you more flexibility. Call the dealers from this website. Super people that will help you through every step. Their knowledge is worth $. Try Ron at FERDCO, also fabulous service before and after the sale. I am a big fan of used machines from REPUTABLE dealers - they will not sell you something not built to do what you want, and have "sewn off" (i.e. tested and adjusted) the machine. If you can travel to one of these dealers, they will give you a terrific lesson before you leave with your new (or used) machine. If your machine comes in a box, you're limited to phone support. I love hand stitching. It is therapeutic, makes you part of the leather, and can look fabulous, I just can't do much of it anymore. You can PM me if you have any questions.
  5. Nickle plated steel will eventually rust in outdoor environs. Nickle plated brass will eventually tarnish when nickle wears off, but still won't rust. Stainless steel holds up. I will definitely check with them as the Brits know their leather, harness, and hardware. Thanks again.
  6. Awesome. All I had to do was ask!! Thank you. Are you sure they're stainless?
  7. Anyone know of source for quality 1-1/4" stainless steel loops or keepers? Have searched all relevant threads on this and other forums. Have searched the internet extensively. Lots of 1", 1-1/2". It figures that I find a 1" strap too narrow and 1-1/2" too wide for my bags. I get nice buckles in 1-1/4" stainless, can find no keepers. I prefer the look of a metal keeper to leather. I guess I would settle for nickle/brass if 1-1/4". No rust allowed.
  8. Some day I'm hoping to own a needle/awl as I see your stitch quality on top and bottom. I've also read that since they are square feed, stitch length does not change with thickness, among other benefits. Right now my shop is in my basement, and it seems a daunting task to get ANY needle/awl down there, much less someday get it back UP !! Another issue is space - 3 sewing machines, bell skiver, hydraulic press, arbor press, cutting table, work tables......not a lot of room left down there. When my adult son wanted to move back home I said he could throw his mattress on the cutting table every night ! (just kidding) I have family in Brighton, MI., when I get over there (now that lake effect snow is done), I would love to see your Union in action.
  9. Since I have the 205 (and got it cheap), I'll probably want a machine for lighter work, say 138 or less, , still in cylinder arm, that way I have no real adjustments....do the machines built to sew 7/8" with 346 sew 8oz total chrome tan well? I could even sell the 205 and look for a used, well maintained needle and awl, say a Union Special, if it were slow enough, and still get a lighter cylinder arm. Any suggestions?
  10. Say I'm convinced. How do I decide which clone? Must be cylinder arm. Rarely sew over 20oz total, 277 or 346 thread. Say I'm convinced. How do I decide which clone? Must be cylinder arm. Rarely sew over 20oz total, 277 or 346 thread.
  11. I'm not sold but you make good points. I'm guessing that when I need another machine I'll try a Cobra, Cowboy, or ? because I do read good things about them.
  12. I'm sure it's sweet. I have a couple old Consews that are tight. I'm not questioning stitch quality, just machine longevity. If I spend $5000 on an Adler and it last 30 years, does $3000 on a clone get me 20 years? (I'm not sure a brand new Adler gets you 30 years). I am just throwing the $/year out there. (I have no affiliation with Adler or any machine sales). What I do like is that the clones make it more affordable for the crafter - but is it only short term? Will the specs change such that parts become unavailable ? Do leatherworkers have the economic muscle to make sure parts are available? After all, building mediocre, even low end products, that need to be replaced, is how the Chinese have taken over the world's manufacturing. 'If it fails, they'll have to buy a new one".
  13. Just wondering if anyone has a 20 year old Chinese machine that sews like my 30 year old Adler 205?
  14. WOW! That's the kind of bag I like to steal ideas from (sorry).
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