How To Cut Straight On A Scribe Line/pen Mark?

[DavidL]

I may not get an answer other than you need to practice more for this question. It wouldn't hurt to ask though.

Do you have any tips to cut one a straight scribed line/pen mark? How do you align your ruler to the scribe line? half the time I put my ruler to the line thinking its completely on the line... when I check the cut it is a mm off, messing up the pattern.

[Red Cent]

Wow. What are you making that .04 inches messes up the pattern:)?

I use an aluminum yard stick and a very, very, sharp cutter. If it is thick leather, I clamp the ruler down on the leather. A while back, I ran across a knife that is wonderful on straight cuts and mild curves. It has a thin blade and slices through 8-9 smoothly.

http://www.tools4flooring.com/personna-pro-63-0222-folding-carpet-knife.html

You can use four edges before throwing the blade away.

The knife is not magical. Still have to focus

[Northmount]

Put the knife right on the line, bring the ruler over to it, and parallel to how you see the line. Make sure you have enough light on that edge of the ruler to see clearly, not working in a shadow. If you have on good eye, and one not so good, arrange your work and lighting to take advantage of the good eye.

Tom

[DavidL]

Its mostly an issue with a wavy cut and 50/50 chance of me misaligning a 90 degree ruler on a line by 1-2 degrees. Ultimately, when it is done two times on a square pattern it becomes very apparent. Sometimes i drag the knife too quick or if it is too dull it pulls the leather with it.

I may have to go with a small olfa knife or a knife like you suggested. I used the olfa but have lost the knife. It removed the wavy cuts because the blade was so thin. The knife I have has a convex edge, which is a disaster to cut with along a ruler. Just today I fixed the convex edge to be more flat and it did help slightly.

The issue I have most is keeping aligning the 90 degree ruler on the line because the line sometimes isn't 100 percent straight because the bevel is too thin to ride along the ruler edge.

[DavidL]

thanks for the help. I figured out what works for me from your advice

I now use my japanese chisel for long straight cuts against a ruler. I use the flat edge against the ruler not the bevel. The longer knife edge allows a straighter cut, but a difficult curve cut (I have a chisel bevel tina type knife on the way). Another benefit I see is the cut is closer to the edge vs my exacto knife, however a thinner 9mm retractable knife would cut almost as close to the edge (The difference is really not a factor).

To align the ruler to the scribed line I took your advice north mount and brought the ruler to the knife. I do it 3 times down the scribe this time by putting it at an angle and bringing the knife to 90 degrees,slightly pushing the ruler to the exact position. If the line is scribed in veg I can just align the chisel and push cut one section at a time.

If anyone has any other way I would like to hear it.

[Colt W Knight]

very, very, sharp cutter.

The knife is not magical. Still have to focus

+1

[joe59]

Steps to Cut straight lines: (1) Obtain a high quality round or head knife. Make sure the knife is comfortable and fits in the cutter's hand. (2) learn how to sharpen the round knife. The sharpest knife cuts the cleanest. (3) learn how to cut with it.

I personally do not use a guide to cut, with the exception of fringe. Cutting straps or belts up to three inches, I use a draw gauge and a leather clamp (sometimes referred to as a third hand). Elbow bent and close to your side, off hand BEHIND the blade and pushing the blade will give a person more control over the knife as well control of the cut. On a long straight cut, the more blade in the leather (up to half the blade) keeps the the cut truer. Keeping the blade perpendicular to the leather eliminates under or over cutting the leather. Holding the cut piece BEHIND the blade with the off hand controls the leather and keeps tension on the piece being cut.

Box cutters, carpet knives, utility knives, exacto knives razor knives and any other knife that is pulled are NOT appropriate knives for a leather worker. The blades can be weak and bend. A hard spot in the leather can cause the blade to jump and if the knife is being pulled the blade comes back towards the cutter.

The book "Leather Tools, How to Use Them How to Sharpen Them" by Al Stholman is an excellent reference guide to build the leather worker's skills.

JOE

[mlapaglia]

LONG straight edge, clamped to table and leather. Roller Knife 45mm. This works for me.

[impulse]

I often use scalpels, as they are the sharpest knives available, AND they can be stropped between cuts many times before the blades need changing.

[club49]

My biggest problem is to make the first cut on a piece of leather that I am going to use for belts. I have a roller knife, it is good for 3.5 to 4 oz leather nothing past that. I have to cut on the floor with a straight edge. As Joe59 said, I have a problem cutting with a razor, I usually under cut. I am not sure what a draw gauge is, I will look it up. Thank you Joe59. I do have Al's book, Leather tools.

Steps to Cut straight lines: (1) Obtain a high quality round or head knife. Make sure the knife is comfortable and fits in the cutter's hand. (2) learn how to sharpen the round knife. The sharpest knife cuts the cleanest. (3) learn how to cut with it.

I personally do not use a guide to cut, with the exception of fringe. Cutting straps or belts up to three inches, I use a draw gauge and a leather clamp (sometimes referred to as a third hand). Elbow bent and close to your side, off hand BEHIND the blade and pushing the blade will give a person more control over the knife as well control of the cut. On a long straight cut, the more blade in the leather (up to half the blade) keeps the the cut truer. Keeping the blade perpendicular to the leather eliminates under or over cutting the leather. Holding the cut piece BEHIND the blade with the off hand controls the leather and keeps tension on the piece being cut.

Box cutters, carpet knives, utility knives, exacto knives razor knives and any other knife that is pulled are NOT appropriate knives for a leather worker. The blades can be weak and bend. A hard spot in the leather can cause the blade to jump and if the knife is being pulled the blade comes back towards the cutter.

The book "Leather Tools, How to Use Them How to Sharpen Them" by Al Stholman is an excellent reference guide to build the leather worker's skills.

JOE

[DavidL]

Steps to Cut straight lines: (1) Obtain a high quality round or head knife. Make sure the knife is comfortable and fits in the cutter's hand. (2) learn how to sharpen the round knife. The sharpest knife cuts the cleanest. (3) learn how to cut with it.

I personally do not use a guide to cut, with the exception of fringe. Cutting straps or belts up to three inches, I use a draw gauge and a leather clamp (sometimes referred to as a third hand). Elbow bent and close to your side, off hand BEHIND the blade and pushing the blade will give a person more control over the knife as well control of the cut. On a long straight cut, the more blade in the leather (up to half the blade) keeps the the cut truer. Keeping the blade perpendicular to the leather eliminates under or over cutting the leather. Holding the cut piece BEHIND the blade with the off hand controls the leather and keeps tension on the piece being cut.

Box cutters, carpet knives, utility knives, exacto knives razor knives and any other knife that is pulled are NOT appropriate knives for a leather worker. The blades can be weak and bend. A hard spot in the leather can cause the blade to jump and if the knife is being pulled the blade comes back towards the cutter.

The book "Leather Tools, How to Use Them How to Sharpen Them" by Al Stholman is an excellent reference guide to build the leather worker's skills.

JOE

Im not getting what you mean by using a draw gauge and clamp.

Like this? 5:10

I have found with a japanese leather chisel knife I can angle it 90 degrees and the blade will stay straight since it is digging in the cutting board guiding the cut. A round knife may work better though since so much length can be in contact of the leather. I may have to pick one up.

The thing I have to tackle now is cutting on a pen mark.

Edited August 3, 2015 by DavidL

[joe59]

A draw gauge and a strap cutter are the same tool. The wooden one used in the video is great for lighter weight leathers. Do NOT square up the leather as shown in the video. When I am going to cut straps from a new hide, I use a long straight edge to square up the side along the back and mark it with a lay out tool (scratch awl, stylist, a ball point pen without any ink, ect..). A deep line is easier to see and can act a guide. Use a sponge and water to dampen hard veg tanned leather. I use my round knife to square up the back. Before I start cutting, I make sure the knife is SHARP and freshly stropped.

Set the draw gauge to the desired width and start cutting. Once again, a sharp blade is a must. When you can get a hold of the strap, hold it to keep pressure on it. The strap can be held by hand, clamped to the bench, nailed to the bench, or get someone to hold it with pliers.

Club49, the floor is never a good place to cut leather. You are hunched over and in an uncomfortable position.

[club49]

Thank you for the video. I guess I will have to use the kitchen table when my wife is asleep.

Jim

[JLSleather]

WHAT THE .. @#$!%#!

So, a 7 min video, where the guy doesn't even pick up a straight edge until 2 1/2 minutes, and then 'eyeballs' the cut anyway? Alrightey, then ... at least I didn't kill the whole 7 minutes (FF to end).

[JLSleather]

Oh, and... I have a 6 foot aluminum straight edge and a utility knife with disposable blades. It's worked for years. Total time sharpening the blade, none.

No, I don't have a video showing how to use it

[club49]

LOL I love you guys