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OOPS or it that beveler?!

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OUPS or it that beveler?!

Hello,

i have 5 different brand of edger here an there is still many i never try i see in catalogs....

There some that leave a staigh cut edges and some that give better rounded edges.

I want to know wich ones are your favorites and give a nice round edge (on heavy leathers) without too much pain. Easy to sharpen is another + :)

I have

-Weaver : i dont like it, hard to work

-Tandy, it work very good but leave a square edge

-Osborne finest: Hard to work wich, it slip, but leave a round edge

-Barnley(from UK) not that bad but leave a sqaure edge

-Vergez-blanchard (France), my favorite for now, work nicely and easy to use. I only have #1 i use for loops, so i dont know if it will leave a round edge with a wider channel on heavy leathers, will have to try.

I would like to know difference with ALL osborne...why do they make so many kind...i am lost

They have

-western style

-finest

-bisonette

-edger

-common edger

!!!!!!!!! :wacko:

Edited by pella

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Pella,

Me again! My favorites early on were the Osborne #127 edgers. Came pretty sharp usually, held an edge Ok, but sharpened up fairly easily - left a squared cut. I got some of Ron's edgers (www.Ronstools.com) in a deal. They were very nice - left a round cut, but a guy made me a ridiculous offer (more than new) and he owns them. Now all I use are Horseshoe Brand tool edgers from Jeremiah Watt. I have the set of round bottom edgers and both of the Vizzard pattern edgers (along with some of his French edgers). The edgers all leave a round cut. His website is www.ranch2arena.com. Jeremiah's edgers (all his cutting tools actually) are sharp when you get them, hold an edge well and sharpen up. I have used the snot out of them and never had to do anything but strop. These edgers sell for about $45 each. Half the cost of Ron's, and I think very comparable. Word of caution, the larger sizes of Jeremiah's edgers (#3 and #4) are pretty big, good for skirts and horns.

Bruce Johnson

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Well, I guess we all started with Tandy or Craftool edgers, and honestly they work ok, flat edge but in 4-5oz leathers they work ok. With thicker leather and bigger edger sizes the Tandy tools are a little crude. I don't know what steel they use, but it does not hold an edge well, but does sharpen easily. I guess you could modify them to improve the edge or profile, but I want something that would stay sharp. After a year or two of Tandy tools, you start wanting something a little finer and somewhat more versatile. The Osborne tools are pretty good, sometimes need sharpening out of the box, but after that do a good job and hold an edge pretty well. Time goes on and thicker and thinner leathers come into play and the need for good tools becomes more of a necessity and a quest. Well, I was on a quest. I orderd edgers from Weaver, Watt, and Ron, I picked up the Watt and Ron at a show and ordered direct from Weaver. I used these for a year and found I liked the Watt and the Ron's edgers. At the next Sheridan, I went there with the expectation of buying a complete set of Ron's or Watts edgers. I liked both and would be happy with either, however these are the points that swayed me to Ron's. I could pretty much use and abuse Ron's products at the show, but I already had them and knew they both were good. The folks at Ron's were happy to talk. Ron's provided a sharpening mandrel with each tool. Ron's makes tools in very small sizes, not important untill you go after a 1-2oz piece with a #0 edger from anyone. Watt looked to be the best pricewise until I talked to the folks at Ron's. They had a hefty discount at the show and of course I played lets make a deal and bought one of everything they made which got me a hefty discount on top of the hefty discount. This made the prices comparable to the Watt tools. So I bought Ron's and have been happy with them for the past two or three years.

There is a little tool called Verlane's seam ripper that is a very good item from Ron's. Works great.

As far as Dixon and Blanchard go, I have a screw crease from Dixon that works great, but Steve Siegel is the only one in the US that stocks those tools and I can never get to use them to see the quality and function. You can get them from Abbey in England but I would work with Steve as his return policy is outstanding.

Duey Peters makes a common edger that is well made and of excellent steel and is sharp out of the box. I have one and like it, not as much as my Ron's edgers, but then it didn't cost a much either.

Art

OUPS or it that beveler?!

Hello,

i have 5 different brand of edger here an there is still many i never try i see in catalogs....

There some that leave a staigh cut edges and some that give better rounded edges.

I want to know wich ones are your favorites and give a nice round edge (on heavy leathers) without too much pain. Easy to sharpen is another + :)

I have

-Weaver : i dont like it, hard to work

-Tandy, it work very good but leave a square edge

-Osborne finest: Hard to work wich, it slip, but leave a round edge

-Barnley(from UK) not that bad but leave a sqaure edge

-Vergez-blanchard (France), my favorite for now, work nicely and easy to use. I only have #1 i use for loops, so i dont know if it will leave a round edge with a wider channel on heavy leathers, will have to try.

I would like to know difference with ALL osborne...why do they make so many kind...i am lost

They have

-western style

-finest

-bisonette

-edger

-common edger

!!!!!!!!! :wacko:

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thank you for sharing your experiences, i do want to buy one set of same brand edgers i am on the "quest" to find the best for me and it seem here that watt and ron's are poping out. Do you sharpen your edgers with a thing like weaver stop board? I think that is used for round bottom blades, the one that leave a rounded edge. I sharpen my tandy/blanchard/ on a flat stone and it is easy. Seem that Blanchard leave a square cut...

I find tandy edgers work very good, They are ugly an i am ashame to still use some tandy tool as edgers. But they are very dangerous and it is the only tool that make me bleed!!! a cut on the finger or under the nail....when the concentration is gone

I like when handle is heavy an i find Vergez are best for that, heavy woods, it let a quality feel in the hands. I dont know why Osborne dye their handle, it look cheap.

I ear about that verlane stich riper and i think i will have to buy it one day, it is certainly useful to remove those old stitches from saddle sqirts. What does it look like? Is there a photo on the web?

SO anyone know the difference between

the western edgar #133

the finest edger #126 (i think here is the roundness of the bottom)

the commom edger #125

the edger #127

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Marie,

I started with TLF and figured out I needed a round bottom the most and on Bruce's advice I bought J. Watt and I'm please with it. I called and talked to Watt and told him what I wanted to use it for and he sent me his #0 and told me if that was too big or too small he would exchange it. It was the right size. It requires to stropping once in a while. I use a piece of denim impregnated with rough wrapped around a small steel rod to strop it. As I recall it cost $45 plus shipping - a few bucks.

I recently bought 2 drom Duey Peters. They are very utilitarian - plain jane - and they work. They are very inexpensive - $12 to $15 plus shipping. Strop them the same as above. As far as description they look like a Bissonnette edger with the end cut out. They are not fancy, but fancy don't make them work.

Since I got the Peters I turned my TLF into round bottom edgers. All you need to do that is a round needle file, some 400, 600, 2000 grit wet or dry emery cloth or sandpaper wrapped around a small steel rod and a piece of denim or light canvas covered with rouge and you can modify what you have to work well. I nubbed the toes back a bit to. You can blunt the toes a bit so they don't bite you, but it's best to get your personal gear behind the cutting edge. To me that's just good habits. Whether it a head knife or a whatever - keep your stuff behind the cutting edge.

I think folks get hurt with head knives because they don't use them all the time. If there's an edgee tool with a learning curve that's the one. If we don't put in time with it, we'll never master it. Sure there's other tools that'll do the job, but the round knife will do almost any cutting task and do it well if we spend the time to learn that skill. Same with those edgers.

I'd bet you can turn any or all of those you've got into round bottom edgers if that's what you need and want. I don't have much doubt in your skills to do that from the conversations we've had. Just take your file and do one of those TLF for a starter and see how that goes. If you mess it up, try again. There's a bunch of metal there you can reshape. Worst case you're out 15 or 20 bucks if you get too ham handed. If I knew what I know now I'd would have just modified the TLF edgers and been done with it, but I'm one of those who learns by seeing. I had never seen a round bottom edger or knew they existed until Bruce referred me to J. Watt. Make no mistake about it - the J. Watt is one nice looking tool and it holds a keen edge. I also liked what he told me about exchanging it if the first one wasn't the right size. Sort of like the dog here chasing his tail - right? Bottom line - all the tools in this thread can and will work and I know you're capable of using them. Good luck which ever way you leap.

'til later ......

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what of the Weaver easy edger...does anyone have anything on this machine?

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Horseshoe brand...

 

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Most of my edgers are the Tandy craftool pro.

I have to say I haven't had a problem with them. They sharpen up pretty good and seem to hold their edges well. 

One thing I feel I have to mention, of all the tools I have, that handle is absolutely  the most comfortable. It really feels good in the hand.

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