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stef73433

Stamping A Geo Design On Swells

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An tricks to getting everything even? I tired a square geomateric pattern on swells and started out ok, but once i got to curved edges, it got disasterous.

HOw the heck do you stamp a perfect pattern on a round or non flat surface?

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Hi Stef73433,

I've wondered about this too. I've looked at square geometrics on saddles and I think every time I've seen them used on swells I see they end up with the same kind of distortions. When you think about it, it's probably just about impossible not to have some problem like this due to the tight curves of the surface on the swell. HOWEVER, I have seen some that look better than others, almost to the point where you don't really notice the distortion unless you are looking close. I'm not sure how they are adjusting when they do this, and it probably is just an experience thing, but if someone has tricks to this they would like to share, I would love to know them too.

I think the square geometrics or 'box stamps' are some of the hardest stamps to operate well.

Bob

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What if it's a modified stamp for just that purpose? Not sure if it's even a thing, but it does seem feasible to have a stamp that has a curved surface with the design you want for just cases. It'd take a good tool maker to pull off getting the design across a curved surface, but it might also be a procedure thing.

Not being someone who makes stamps, I don't know the specifics. It may be easier to make the stamp and then heat it enough for it to bend, bend it across one direction, then quench and heat treat as needed. Bending along one direction would allow for it to fit better inside those odd curves a bit better than a stamp meant for a flat surface.

I can't rule out that I am completely wrong on the entire thing, either. It was just an off-the-cuff idea that didn't seem impossible.

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Interesting idea, but I've never run across a stamp shaped like that. I think that would be a good design challenge for Bob Beard! He enjoys coming up with the unusual tool designs.

I'm pretty sure it's just a matter of technique. I look at the "Fun With Basket Stamping" articles Chan Geer writes in the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal and I'm always amazed at the creativity it take to come up with the ideas he does. I'm pretty sure there are a lot of great techniques that some experienced leatherworks out there have for doing this sort of thing. Just hoping someone out there can share some little nuggets of wisdom..... :begging:

Bob

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Use a flexible ruler for you're layout line then the line will match the curve of.the swell

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LOL I think you are addressing a question that it isn't going to be easy to find an answer for. Saddlemakers who have developed techniques for doing what you are describing have no doubt learned methods/techniques for doing this the hard way. That is through using their heads, and .....trying this.......trying that.....and seeing what works. They are not going to be real eager to share "secrets" cpncerning one of the things that distinguish their work from the many amateur saddlemakers out there. That is their livlihood you are talking about. For some of them, part of their livlihood is running saddlemaking schools, and you may be able to find one that will learn you up on those techniques.

As Bob Blea discussed above, Chan Greer's articles are a good place to start as he demonstrates methods of converging stamp lines by varying the spacing and using sets of matching stamps in differant sizes. That magazine, LC&SJ, should be required reading for any aspiring saddlemaker since the information in it is worth many times the subscription price.

You may not be able to find anyone who is willing to show their "secrets" to you,.....but you can do the next best thing. You can look at the finished product. You already know how to stamp leather, and the tools involved. All you are missing is the technique. When you find a saddle that has the tooling that you are seeking to emulate.....park yourself and really study the tooling and figure out what the saddle tooler did, and how he did it. I spent over 6 hours just studying the work in the museum at King's Saddlery in Sheridan, and only left because they were closing up.

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That must be done by eye over the rise more surface area with lite marks fudge out the pattern i think it the only way. IMHO

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