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mproberts

Needle Types - General Description

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I've been poking around, and have not found a general description for the various needle points for the 135x17/16 system. I put the info below together based on various bits here and from manufacturers. Please review and let me know what needs correction, clarification or additional detail. This is for my wife...

A common needle system for the commercial walking foot machines is the 135x17 system, and its "twin" 135x16. The system 135 x 16 is the same size needle but the point is for specific leather uses.

The 135x17 is a size often used for fabric/canvas etc., and usually the needlepoints are designed for fabric. 135x16 is available in various leather points. 135x16 interchanges with 135x17 but sometimes timing can be different, usually not enough to make a difference so they are generally interchangeable.

Sewing Machine Needles D1 are specialty needles designed for working with leather. These leather needles are optimized for heavy, dry and hard leather. The blade cuts fibers so that the needle does not have to separate them. These are industrial needles that have shanks that are completely round.

Sewing Machine Needles SD1 are specialty needles optimized for fine leather or leather clothing.

Sewing Machine Needles TR1 Point cuts leather with a prominent triangular shape and is used for a straight stitch appearance. The sewn thread is slightly elevated. Stitch holes are relatively large. Medium to short stitches are possible. Suitable for straight sewing. Effective on hard and thick leather as well as cartons. Example: Belts, suitcases, heavy shoes and plastics.

Sewing Machine Needles FB1 (ballpoint) are specialty needles specifically designed for sewing knit fabrics and stretchy materials. The blunt point on these needles preserves the elasticity of the fabric by allowing the thread to pass between the fibers of the fabric, rather than through them.

Quick Table:

D1 = Diamond Point (heavy, hard, dry leather)

SD1 – Diamond Point (fine leather)

TR1 = Triangular Point (hard leather)

FB1 = Ball Point (knit fabrics)

Edited by mproberts

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These needle designations are more or less specific to one manufacturer. They completely leave out an entire class of chisel or wedge shaped leather point needles, often designated as LL and LR. They closely resemble hand sewing awls that are oval in shape. Some have the left side down (LL) and others have the right side down (LR).

Also missing are the S point needles made by Schmetz for the big Adler and Juki 441 type machines. These needles are oval chisels, with the edges perfectly inline, front to back.

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Is there a source that succinctly describes the fundamental needle designations and point options? At least as it pertains to leather work?

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Here is a brochure from Grozny-Beckert. http://www.groz-beckert.com/home/getFileCh.php?chbid=60〈=en&file=content&download=true shows various needle points and stitch appearance. Lots of info out there on the web and here on LW.

Tom

Tthank you very much, this contains a lot of very usefull information. I have inherited of my dad's sewing maching and trying to learn to sew with thoses, I have always hansewn and laced.

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