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Larry

Leather turning black when cased?

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I just started my Tom Threepersons style holster and when I cased the leather, it turned black. Mostly spots on the grain side, but some also on the flesh side. The more it dries the more black gunk it has show up on it. I know with all your experience, you would know what this is. Also, what do I do about it? It's not the top of the line leather as I am new to leather crafting and still honing my skills. It's Tandy's veg. tanned single shoulder 6-7 ounce. Thanks everyone. Larry

Mold.jpg

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I just started my Tom Threepersons style holster and when I cased the leather, it turned black. Mostly spots on the grain side, but some also on the flesh side. The more it dries the more black gunk it has show up on it. I know with all your experience, you would know what this is. Also, what do I do about it? It's not the top of the line leather as I am new to leather crafting and still honing my skills. It's Tandy's veg. tanned single shoulder 6-7 ounce. Thanks everyone. Larry

Mold.jpg

Do you by any chance have hard water ie: a lot of iron, in your area. If you do this could be the problem. Any contact between ferrous material and wet leather will turn the leather black due to a reaction with the tannins in the leather. Same way that vinegaroon works to color leather. Just a thought.

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Do you by any chance have hard water ie: a lot of iron, in your area. If you do this could be the problem. Any contact between ferrous material and wet leather will turn the leather black due to a reaction with the tannins in the leather. Same way that vinegaroon works to color leather. Just a thought.

I agree with Denster.

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Larry, you are correct in pegging it as mold. This is not uncommon. One thing that will help is to be sure that you use new clean plastic bags when you case your leather. Reusing the same bags over again will promote mold, because you can almost never get all the old moisture out and the mold will be already "in the bag" before you put your piece in it. Sometimes it happens even if you just wet your leather and let it sit in the open air. As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years.

Bondo Bob

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As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years.

Bondo Bob

I got mine at a good hardware store (not a box home improvement store) that has a good selection of wood finishes. It's used to bleach and clean wood when refinishing, I don't rembember the name brand off hand, but a knowledgable hardware person helped me out when I asked for it.

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As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years.

Bondo Bob

I got mine at a good hardware store (not a box home improvement store) that has a good selection of wood finishes. It's used to bleach and clean wood when refinishing, I don't rembember the name brand off hand, but a knowledgable hardware person helped me out when I asked for it.

I don't know anything about this stuff. I was just curious so I found a place you can buy it.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19462&source=googleps&cookietest=1

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I don't think it's mold, mold would be on the entire project, it's not selective. Since the back side is worse than the front and from the looks of it it's been on a dirty table, possibly before you bought it, it looks like iron stains, or just plain old dirt, maybe grit from a sharpening stone, metal filings, or just plain dirty. Mold or dirt oxolic will likely clean it up. Don't know if that helps.

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I don't know anything about this stuff. I was just curious so I found a place you can buy it.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19462&source=googleps&cookietest=1

Al Stohlman referenced using a solution of it to prep projects before dying in one of his coloring leather books. That is where I learned of it.

Larry, What is that leather gonna hold? Judging the shape, a revolver, what kind?

Edited by MBOGO

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Thanks everyone for the great replies. I thought it might be iron oxidation (another name for rust) also and I found the cure for it. It's the brown bottle of rust remover you get at any grocery store. I have provided pictures of the results and it only take a few drop on the wet leather and the black is gone in seconds. It looks like brand new leather. I hope this will help others out there that may have the same problem. Thanks again, Larry

MBOGO, as you can probably tell, it is a Tom Threeperson's design and it's for my S&W Mod. 19 and Mod. 66. Both are 6" barrels. I found a photo of what they think was one of his original holsters (who knows??) and I went to PhotoShop and under "Filters" I used the "Find Edges" command and traced the design right off the holster. It may or may not be his holster, but the design is nice I think.

BlackGone2.jpg

BlackGone3.jpg

Edited by Larry

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Larry

Thank you for the information. I just posted a similar problem. I'll be looking for the product at the grocery.

Happy tooling

Tim

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We've got some rust remover at work that we use to get rust stains out of fabric. The main ingredient is lemon juice.

Bronson

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Here's a Threepersons style holster I made a few years ago. I used a toeplug, and wanted more flowing lines. If I had to do it again there would be no lining.

threepersons0051.JPG

post-8608-126071872528_thumb.jpg

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MBOGO, that is one beautiful holster. A real work of art. I plan on staying with it and get plenty of practice and do some more holsters. Where did you connect the other end of the strap on the back side of the holster. If you look at my layout, the only place I have to put the snap in the back is on the belt loop. Lobo, suggested going a little in front of the belt loop. I would have to do that on my next holster. I did make a mistake and didn't do the forward cant. I didn't notice until too late. I like the strap and will plan better for it on the next holster.

I'm don't know what a toeplug is, but I used a welt all the way down. Three pieces thick and the barrel still pushes out a little.

3%20person%20holster01.jpg

Edited by Larry

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That was made before I came into the knowldege that the strap is supposed to be secured with a snap, It is sewn inside. The toe plug is a flat tear drop shaped bottom, with the narrow end of the tear drop pointing at the sewn seam. Hang in there, your work is getting better.

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Thanks for the information Larry. Ocassionally I will come across this problem. I have always dyed my holsters black so it wasn't a real problem, but now I know what to do when I am not going to use black. Thanks.

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Yes, thank´s for the information! I´ve had the same Problem with cheap veg tan cow sides, but the Spots where more blue than black. But I think it´s the same problem.

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Hmm, thanks for this thread. I just molded an IWB holster for a 1911 using my actual firearm and anywhere "bare" metal touched it left nasty black marks. Of course, this holster is slated to be dyed saddle tan. I'm going to try the lemon juice first, and, if that fails, the rust remover.

Oh, why didnt I just saran wrap like normal? :brainbleach:

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I had it happen with some new leather I picked up on a recent sheath. Not sure why as the steel is stainless and everything else around the wet sheath was clean. Weird.

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I had it happen with some new leather I picked up on a recent sheath. Not sure why as the steel is stainless and everything else around the wet sheath was clean. Weird.

Not so weird if the SS had not been passified adequately.

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