General Tooling Anyone Just Use Bevelers Instead Of Swivel Knife

[Iron Pounder]

Does anyone just use different size and shape bevelers instead of cutting the outline with a swivel knife? I've made a few bevelers but haven't hit on anything I really like as well as the backgrounders I made. My work looks smoother with just bevelers than if I cut in the outline and my thought has been the cuts would weaken the leather and provide water traps. I don't know as I'm self taught, coming for blacksmithing and woodworking. Most of the work I have done to data has been for the motorcycle industry (outdoor). I'm getting ready to do an inlay for a rocking chair so it will remain indoors.

Anyone have an idea of how to cut the inlay(6oz leather) to fit and not have it shrink? Only thing I can think of is cut it oversize to start off and trim to final size when dry but then I couldn't really the edge. Haven't tried an inlay before so this will be a challenge.

[js5972]

My first thought would be do whatever you like as long as it looks cool. Everyone has there own style and special techniques. Post a picture or two in the "Critique" section to get some good input.

[electrathon]

I have seen a couple people say there was no need to cut. Even heard one Tandy manager teach this (it was because he really did not know how to tool).

Bottom line is, if you do not cut first your tooling comes out shallow and less defined.

Aaron

[benlilly1]

FINALLY.... somebody has said it right! Thanks Aaron

I have seen a couple people say there was no need to cut. Even heard one Tandy manager teach this (it was because he really did not know how to tool).

Bottom line is, if you do not cut first your tooling comes out shallow and less defined.

Aaron

[Iron Pounder]

As soon as we find the dang charger for the camera I will post some up. What I really need is someone in the Kansas City area (MO side is where I live to give me some decent direction in person). You could say I found leather working due to limitations from injuries that made it tough to do other mediums I was working with so this is new for me. I did leatherwork as a scout like I'm sre many of you did and enjoyed doing it I just moved onto other art forms.

I've spent my whole life swiming upstream so by nature when left to figure things out on my own I do tend to do things the hard way . I will agree a cut does make it much easier to get the depth I want. I just thought it would weaken the leather, I don't see how it doesn't. Maybe I was cutting too deep (a bit less than half way). I do thank you guys for your insite, I do want to grow m skills in this area. Does anyone have any ideas on the inset for the rocker?

[BarryKing]

Cutting does weaken it, but then again you can add a liner to the back of the item.

Crowners and turnbacks come to mind for tools used without cutting the leather first. Cutting makes the leather "Pop" more, just a lot more definition. Using bevelers and such without cutting tend to "roll" the leather instead of having the crisp cut lines.

Tooling when the leather is dryer will also help make lines crisper instead of the mushy look some tend to get. This will be the point when after casing, the leather is turning back to it's natural look, before wetting. It will feel cool to the touch, but look dry. This will also give the best burnish too.

[Iron Pounder]

Cutting does weaken it, but then again you can add a liner to the back of the item.

Crowners and turnbacks come to mind for tools used without cutting the leather first. Cutting makes the leather "Pop" more, just a lot more definition. Using bevelers and such without cutting tend to "roll" the leather instead of having the crisp cut lines.

Tooling when the leather is dryer will also help make lines crisper instead of the mushy look some tend to get. This will be the point when after casing, the leather is turning back to it's natural look, before wetting. It will feel cool to the touch, but look dry. This will also give the best burnish too.

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Barry. Thanks for your input. Where is the best place on the net to learn and grow my tooking skills? Do most guys just cut half way with the swivel? I did get a few books from tandy but frankly the pictures are so poor it's hard to get much out of them. I do believe in any art form having a hard and fast set of rules that are to be followed can limit creativity.

[BarryKing]

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Barry. Thanks for your input. Where is the best place on the net to learn and grow my tooking skills? Do most guys just cut half way with the swivel? I did get a few books from tandy but frankly the pictures are so poor it's hard to get much out of them. I do believe in any art form having a hard and fast set of rules that are to be followed can limit creativity.

I think you are at the best place on the net. There really isn't much unless you ask specific ?'s. You tube has a few short videos too.

For books that come to mind to look for:

Sheridan Style Carving by Clint Fay and Bill Gardner

Bob Park's book, I don't recall the name, it's new.

Pete Gorrell's books, he has 2

These provide some good pictures of "How to"

[Iron Pounder]

Wish this site had some good videos of different tooling methods. Youtube doesn't have much that direction. This site is great, you just have to know the right questions to ask.

[Cyberthrasher]

I have seen a couple people say there was no need to cut. Even heard one Tandy manager teach this (it was because he really did not know how to tool).

Bottom line is, if you do not cut first your tooling comes out shallow and less defined.

Aaron

Just found this while searching for other stuff

I will say that there are times when all I want is that slight effect of a beveled line with no cut. I have a piece I'm working on right now that's got a lot of torn flesh designs to it. Most of these lines I've cut and then as I'm beveling, I go past the end of my cut and continue beveling to make a nice feathered line that looks like it's coming out of the rest of the un-tooled portion. There are other times I use the no-cut technique for shading. But, keep in mind, this is just one technique to be used when called for. You should definitely be cutting your designs a majority of the time.

If you don't know which question to ask, do a search on what you need. Chances are pretty good you'll get a wealth of information. For cutting, most people recommend 1/3 to 1/2 of the thickness of your leather for the cut depth.

[cem]

A lot of early Australian leather tooling was done without a swivel knife, Ron Edwards mentioned it in a couple of his books he said he only used modelling spoons for a number of years until the overseas way of using the swivel knife started to take hold.