Installing Studs

[Chavez]

Hi!

Can somebody please help me with some advice on installing studs?

I've been asked to put some studs on a dog collar and I got myself some studs to try out: They are brass studs with two prongs. Similar to the ones in this picture:

http://studsandspikes.com/buy/images/cones_1-2inch_black.jpg

How does one install these and how much of the prong should be sticking out of leather to safely fasten them? I've got a feeling that such studs will fall off very quickly if the collar is brushed against anything, but would really appreciate any comments and suggestions!

So far I have tried punching 2 holes for the prongs with a diamond awl and putting the stud in, but it looks like if the holes are off by only 0.5-1mm, the studs pull on the leather, creating lots of wrinkles =(

[DoubleC]

Hi Chavez. I'm making a similar dog collar and after I install the pyramid spots I'm going to glue and sew a backing on the collar. As far as installing, would be most interested in finding out myself, because they are on their way and it's worrying me as far as getting them on straight. Hope you/I get some answers :-) Cheryl

[WinterBear]

Adjustable spot setter?

http://www.greyowlcr...isc/IC-250.html

Let me see if I can scare up something similar in your neck of the woods.

Edit: I'm not having any luck. I think it's primarily due to differing terminologies. You might try emailing that picture to the places you get your supplies from and see if they carry something similar under a different name.

Edit 2: http://studsandspikes.com/buy/dual-blade-awl.html?osCsid=05e104aa6522db959502975389e9f46c

If you are getting your studs from this company, they do sell the setter. Looks like the only difference is that it isn't painted.

Edited September 2, 2012 by WinterBear

[Chavez]

Adjustable spot setter?

http://www.greyowlcr...isc/IC-250.html

Let me see if I can scare up something similar in your neck of the woods.

Edit: I'm not having any luck. I think it's primarily due to differing terminologies. You might try emailing that picture to the places you get your supplies from and see if they carry something similar under a different name.

Edit 2: http://studsandspike...502975389e9f46c

If you are getting your studs from this company, they do sell the setter. Looks like the only difference is that it isn't painted.

Thank you!

I actually just typed "brass studs" into google and it came up with the website. My supplier doesn't have any tools like this but I think I'll ship it from the US.

What do you do with them after you've pushed the prongs through? gently bend the prongs with pliers or just hammer the dickens out of them?

[WinterBear]

Both pliers and hammering actually. But no hammering the dickens out of them.

Instead, you want to first use pliers (needle-nose or round-nose work best) and rather than bending the prongs flat against the backside (as making a sharp kink makes a weak area at the bend), the people I know curl the prongs over so they meet at the middle and the tips are pointing towards the underside of the dome. They then pinch the curled prongs slightly with the pliers and gently tap the curls to drive the tips into the leather behind the dome. This link explains it pretty well.

http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingRingoRig2.html

Oh, and I've done some reading on that prong setting thing, and the slits it makes may be too large for very small studs. If that's the case, your best bet may be to fall back to the dividers and a small thonging chisel, and lots of practice on scrap.

Edited September 3, 2012 by WinterBear

[Chavez]

Thank you for the advice!

After a bit of googling - this tool is called a "dual blade awl" over here

[Feraud]

Hi. Does anyone have experience or advice on the spot setter tool offered by Tandy seen here?

http://www.tandyleat...sd/8114-50.aspx

[immiketoo]

I have the Tandy tool, and it works well, but I do not use the anvil supplied. I also found that you need to make surethe prongs are straight/parallel or they make a ripple in the leather. The tool works well and until I find a source for screw back spots and studs, I'll keep using it.

[LeatherLegion]

So far I have tried punching 2 holes for the prongs with a diamond awl and putting the stud in, but it looks like if the holes are off by only 0.5-1mm, the studs pull on the leather, creating lots of wrinkles =(

First you have to make sure that the prongs are parallel with each other(as immiketoo also mentioned)...most of te time they are spread out...so you end up marking the holes to far from each other. As far as the tool for making the holes goes, i use a small flat head screwdriver...similar in size with the width of the prongs. I have few of them for different prong sizes...some of them i had to file down to the size i wanted

[Spinner]

I have the Tandy tool, and it works well, but I do not use the anvil supplied. I also found that you need to make surethe prongs are straight/parallel or they make a ripple in the leather. The tool works well and until I find a source for screw back spots and studs, I'll keep using it.

I noticed no one mentioned the rivet back spots. I use them exclusively after having issue with folks pulling the tabbed spots off their tank & fender bibs when a boot or bag hit them right. The rivet back get on there really secure if you use the right length back for the leather thickness and if a replacement is needed, a pair of dikes will snip them off at the post. In situations where I need even more holding power, a drop of epoxy into the rivet hole before riveting them together keeps them solid.

And being rivet back, they simply need a single round hole for mounting which making lining them up and installing them much easier & faster.

Edited September 25, 2012 by Spinner

[immiketoo]

I noticed no one mentioned the rivet back spots. I use them exclusively after having issue with folks pulling the tabbed spots off their tank & fender bibs when a boot or bag hit them right. The rivet back get on there really secure if you use the right length back for the leather thickness and if a replacement is needed, a pair of dikes will snip them off at the post. In situations where I need even more holding power, a drop of epoxy into the rivet hole before riveting them together keeps them solid.

And being rivet back, they simply need a single round hole for mounting which making lining them up and installing them much easier & faster.

I will look those up. I like the design way better already. What special tools do you need?

EDIT: Looked and I can't find anything other than the prong kind. Any help? Screw back would be nice too.

Edited September 25, 2012 by immiketoo

[Spinner]

Here are the links via Tandy. I use 12mm almost exclusively as that's the standard size the seat companies use for their spots but I have them all from 7mm-15mm just in case.

Domed Rivets: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/11322-12.aspx

12mm Domed rivet setter: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8084-02.aspx

You simply punch a 1/8" dia. hole in the leather, attach the rivet to the back of the dome through the leather, put the setter on top of the dome and give it a good hit with a maul, done. Actually, I'll do a light hit to get everything locked & centered loosely and then a heavier hit to set it. This way if I notice the rivet went crooked on the first hit, I can cut it off and set a new one.

A solid surface like 2"+ thick marble slab is all that's needed underneath. If you want to err to the cautious side, use one of Tandy's rivet setting plates like the one in this set (http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8105-00.aspx) underneath the piece but I've never had a problem with a rivet scratching my granite bench top.

[immiketoo]

Cool, thanks man. I'll check it out next time I'm there.