Bertil

YIHAAAA! Works! A friend gave me some good advices (he is a mechanical engineer): Follow the service manual exactly! If you don´t have the special tools prescribed, invent something. I did! Instead of "Kloben 30" and "Schleifenhublehre 29", visegrips and a small plate 1.7mm. Final advice: check, check and check again. This I found to be really helpful. It is so easy that something is changed slightly when tilting the machine and take off the cord! Now the machine works like a charm. Timing reset and needle height is right. No burr and the hook does not need to be replaced for now.

Still have the same problem. Now I suspect it has among all the other things to do with the lifter of the bobbin and hook assembly. When I removed the hook I found a lot of dirt which now is cleaned out. Been trying to read the German service manual but I don't get any wiser. I suppose that I now have to lift more but has anyone a good measurement or trick?

Thanks guys! It lead me in the right direction. Found a burr on the tip of the hook. OK I had to take out the hook and found the screw holding the hook case down to be a little bit up and furthermore the spring pin out of place! Took hook out and found that the tip was kind of bent. Polished it and replaced everything. How much should you tighten the screw in the middle? I tightened it until the hook case could not turn. Loosened the screw until it could. Wrong or? I probably have to buy a new hook assembly. Anyone know where to buy spare parts for Adler in Europe. The only one with a decent supply I have found is College Sewing in UK. There are some in Spain but I have not found one that can supply screws. (My dog knocked the tray over and one is missing for the moving foot plate).

The other day a needle broke due to hitting a very hard patch of super glue. OK new needle but hook not in right position when needle in the down position. Had to adjust the bobbin case so the hook was just at the down position. Also had to tweek the space in between the hook and the needle. Before that of course the distance between needle eye and hook. Now everything should be right but no. The hook catches the upper thread correctly but does not release the thread on the next turn. This creates a bird nest and upper thread is ripped off at the second stich or third. I am starting to believe this has to do with the bobbin lift or is there a slip clutch somewhere that is out of sync? Please help I am running out of ideas. I have the service manual for 67 and I do read German but technical language over my head.

Re Enduro they have changed it on the 2nd generation. I have an ENDURO PRO SM645-2P 220V and it works like a charm on low speed. Read my review and comments http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61436. This machine would run on slowest max speed 100 rpm and with a 50 mm pulley and 100 mm hand wheel 50 stitches per min. Still you have the possibility to go very slow and have the torque and control. What I find very convenient is that you can easily turn the hand wheel without pressing down the foot pedal. Re Family Sew if you really want to keep to keep it: Go with a speed reducer. The motor is really not made to run at slow speed. Then it just matters how handy you are if you buy a ready made one or make one yourself. Search for speed reducer in the forum and you will find a lot of good ideas if you want to make one yourself.

Wikipedia has a good article about servos http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servomotor I guess that the "Anlasser motor" is a stepper motor.

There are some pros and cons re different types of servos. Basically two main types. brush and brushless. With brush like the Family Sew you have an internal brake that you have to release by pressing the pedal a bit in order to hand jog the machine. On brushless, hand wheel is easily turned by hand and no foot on the pedal. Brushes wear over time and tend to consume more energy compared to brushless. On the other hand many brush motors have a nice dial to change the top speed. Many brushless have a push button system which is not so intuitive. On the other hand brushless have higher start up torque. Both have very good sewing control and are very quiet. I have an Enduro Pro 220V from Universal Sewing Supply (https://www.universalsewing.com) which I am more than happy with.

As far as I know the difference is that the Elite are the more powerful ones, but please make a call to Universal Sewing Supply to make sure: 314-862-0800 (7 -5 Mon-Fri CST). Check with them re the start up speed. I believe that their 2nd generation motors have the new blade. I have received some comments re the push button systems vs. rotary dials. All are in favor of rotary dials, no surprise there! But please beware there are servos with brushes and then you don't get the start up torque! If you also are looking for energy saves the more you use a brush motor the more it will consume. Already when new you save more on a brush less motor.

Got some feedback and need to add some complementary information and correction: The maximum speed can be set in increments of 100 rpm starting with 100 rpm up to 4500 rpm. This means in my case the sewing machine would turn from 50 up to 2250 stitches per minute. Regarding the biggest Enduro it is not rated at 1 kW but rather 1.4 kW! I just wonder will it warp the table or not (just kidding).

I have just posted a review of the 2nd generation http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61436&hl=enduro Hope this answers some of your questions. Bertil

I have an Adler 167, now in good condition. The clutch motor was really old, too weak (½ hp) and very difficult to control and noisy like a jet engine. After carefully reading about motors in the forum I decided to look for a servo motor. In search of a servo I read a lot of comments in the forum. Really helpful!! In short I found that servo motors are quiet and easy to control but weak at start up unless you want to pay a lot of money. Next step was to search the web for motors and there was one that caught my attention, Enduro. The only motor with decent documentation available to download and review! http://www.endurosaves.com/download-PDFs.php One passage in the manual for SM645-2P stood out: “provides a high starting torque even at low speed or from a complete stop.”. This was the deciding factor for me since I am many times sewing thick naturally cured leather and I need to go slow. This motor comes with needle positioning system which would be nice to have. Ordered from Universal Sewing Supply https://www.universalsewing.com. The first thing that strikes you is the weight (4,5 kg) compared to my old clutch motor (22 kg). Can this motor really match the old? Well let´s see. First problem was to fit the motor to the table. It would really be nice to have a foot print in order to drill the holes. Why not put it as another pdf on the web? Well two new holes drilled from the underside, one old was perfect to use. Put on a 50mm pulley and fitted the motor and found that the belt was too long. 2nd problem a new belt 2 inches shorter and now the test! The on/off buttons are really good quality and gives you a good feeling, sturdy and distinct. OK here we go; ON. Very low noise, almost nothing and when not running nothing! Setting up the motor control was a little bit cumbersome but worked out. Why can not manufacturers put nice old fashion rotary dials instead of these digital push button systems? I guess it would be more expensive but I would be more than happy to pay a little bit extra. Anyway you can set up; running direction, starting speed (I have set to 7, 9 is slowest) and max speed (set to 6 i.e. 600 rpm & with the pulley 50/100mm means 300 stitches per minute max). When you wind the bobbin it takes some time unless you change the top speed. This is a minor problem and I don´t mind to wait and relax a little bit. The needle positioning system has to be fitted to the central screw on the hand wheel. Sorry the supplied screw does not fit. My machine is too old and a new screw I have been unable to find. The machine can be set up to run at really low speed, even too low for me. Using the hand wheel is really easy. You don´t have to depress the pedal at all. Then when running, the control is excellent. You can easily sew stitch by stitch, even stop wherever you want. There seems to be almost no moment of inertia so when you release the pedal the machine stops immediately! Nice! How about the torque? Well I have now been sewing for a month and it easily goes through anything I have been feeding the machine, up to 6 glued layers of serraje (its like nubuck), 7-9 mm thick. Easy, even stitch by stitch. The other day I had to sew two layers of naturally cured belt leather, 3,5 mm thick each. No problem at all. Curiosity took over. Three layers of old vegetal leather, crazily hard and in total 11 mm! Did not think on that the machine does not have this capacity. Sorry old buddy! The needle Schmetz 140/22 134-35 LR and thread nylon 10. Did it work? Ooohhh YES! Like a hot knife in butter, stitch by stitch. Really impressive! Does this have to do with the neodym magnets? I have no idea but surely it works beyond my expectations. I recommend this motor. If you need even more torque there are 1 kW motors.

Thanks! It really works!

OK! The point is that some servos, actually the control box, needs to be 0. If you put the lead there you might destroy the circuit card! In GB you can only put in the plug one way in Germany two ways and thereby switching the lead with 0. In GB the wiring in a house is standardized in order to avoid these problems. The best way is to read the installation careful and if they say 0 in one wire and lead in the other you better make a fix installation. PS! I am not an electrician but am very careful with electricity. DS!

You don´t have to be careful which is 0 and which is lead?

Constabulary post 9: I believe the "beeeeeeeeep" machine comes from this supplier: http://www.hmcmotor.com.cn/website/enproduct_list.asp?action=product&YGH=LookProduct&Product_Id=49&CPclass_Id=1