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Using what I've learned on the forum, here's my attempt at a Cross Draw holster for my Bersa.

Front.jpg Rear.jpg

This was made with 4/5 oz veg tan leather, it was what I had available and after asking questions about leather weight decided it would be fine to practice on. I started out with a concept drawing on graph paper. I traced the gun and sketched the holster. I added a second layer... combination sweat band, thumb straps and belt loop. The components and edges were glued, stitching grove cut, holes marked, punched with a 1/16" dremel drill bit and hand stitched.

First thing I discovered was that even though I added 1/4" to the pattern the fit was still tight. My measurements were precise but the thumb strap spacing was off. I think I should have also added 1/4 to 1/2" to the middle (center line) of the pattern to compensate. I had planned on wet forming the front of the holster but because the fit was so tight I ended up adding a 3 layer spacer (????) of 10 oz belt leather to the sewn edge.

Question: Is there a formula that's used for determining the amount of extra leather that should be cut to allow for wet forming and to compensate for things like straps?

I glued the combination sweat band/thumb strap/belt loop to the body of the holster. I used scotch tape to cover the area under the belt loop where I didn't want glue. Note to self: 1. Never use scotch tape. 2. Don't forget to form a tunnel in the loop for the belt before gluing.

After gluing I cut a stitching groove around the holster and used one of them pointed wheel things to mark the holes. Note to self: Don't forget to also groove the inside of the holster.

Questions: 1. Is there a preferred number of holes per inch that should be used for holsters? 2. what's the recommended distance from the edge for the stitching? 3. For those that do hand stitching, do you use a stitching all or needles?

I don't have a bevel tool for the edges so I used sandpaper and a steel burnisher from my silversmith tools.

After stitching the holster together, I touched up the edges and then as an after thought dyed the holster medium brown. After applying the first coat of dye I noticed lots of places that didn't take the dye as well as others. I didn't use any type of treatment or cleaning prior to dying so I think part of the problem might be from dirt and oil from my hands while working with the holster.

Question: What do you do to insure good uniform dying of leather?

Overall I like the way the holster turned out.... On the positive side the holster is a good fit for the gun and the design allows for an adjustable cant which is what I was looking for. The negative is that either the design, location of the belt loop or weight of the leather is causing the grip of the gun to move away from my body when it's adjusted to the grip down position.

My edging tools, treatment, resolene and satin sheen are on order. I've also ordered some stamping tools, punches and a few different weights of leather. Can anyone suggest a good holster making book, I'd hate to wear out my welcome here by asking so many basic questions.

Thanks in advance for your comments and answers to my questions.

Greg

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Greg, thats a good looking holster! As for it slanting away from your body, that has to do with your design. If you look here on the forum at what most of the guys do when they make a holster, you will see that they usually make the back of the holster or at least the belt loops pretty flat to keep the gun close to the body. Looking at your picture of the back of the holster it looks like your tunnel loop angles in from the top to the bottom, thus causing it to slant out from the body. I may be wrong, but thats what I think happened from looking at the pictures. I don't have a set answer to give you about the extra leather as I just eyeball mine. Someone else may have a formula they can post. As far as how many stitches per inch, I just use the stitching wheel that came with my hand sewing kit from TLF and yes I use needles and a stitching awl, not one of the sewing awls with the thread inside it. I try to keep my stitching about a 1/4 inch from the edge, though sometimes it may be less depending on how my edges line up when I glue the holster together. I end up sanding off more when this happens than I originally intended. Dyeing leather in my opinion is an art form in itself, but I have found that using several thin coats works better than one thick one. It tends to smooth out the overall color of the piece and make the color deeper and richer looking. There are several books on making holsters out there depending on what kind of holsters your interested in making. Some of the other guys can probably make better recommendations than I can as the only book I've bought about holsters is "Packing Iron" which is the authority on historically correct old west holsters. Don't worry about asking questions here, thats part of what this forums about and no one will think your being a pest. Gald to have you here, keep up the good work and don't forget to post!

Warren

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Looks good from here!

I like the doublebox stitch on the loop.

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Question: Is there a formula that's used for determining the amount of extra leather that should be cut to allow for wet forming and to compensate for things like straps?

Not that I have found. Experiments will usually get you there in two tries. Make sure you make a pattern first with still paper. Loose fit, then your in no man's land until you get it just right. In general, error on the side of big. You can always cut something down, but adding something is a no go.

Questions: 1. Is there a preferred number of holes per inch that should be used for holsters? 2. what's the recommended distance from the edge for the stitching? 3. For those that do hand stitching, do you use a stitching all or needles?

For holes per inch, it is up to you. I use longer stitching just because it shortens sew. IMO, a sewing awl makes it easy and painless assuming that grove and punch your holes first.

Question: What do you do to insure good uniform dying of leather?

Air. Just leave it out and move it around every once and a while to make sure that both sides dry even.

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Greg - Very nice work and an interesting design. The box stitch looks good and appears very strong and functional, I can find no reference for it. Can you give some directions how it's done?

jt

Edited by jt1

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Thanks for all the positive comments and answers to my questions.

jt... the box stitch is a patented process that I developed several years ago. :rolleyes:But in reality it happened by accident. The holster is hand stitched. When I finished stitching the bottom belt loop the thread ended near the middle of the holster and I didn't want to tie it off there.... I thought that repeated drawing and holstering of the gun would eventually wear down the knot.... So I needed a way to get the thread to end under a glue point. I figured this was the best way to do it. So starting on the lower row I stitched to the top of the upper row then across the back ( \ ) to the next hole on the bottom row. I just kept repeating the stitch until the thread ended on the right side of the holster under the glue point. From the outside it looks like a box stitch.... viewing it from the inside it looks like a Z stitch. I don't recall reading anything about doing or using this kind of stitch nor can I recall ever seeing it done on a holster.

Remember you saw it here first... so if you see it done on any other holsters you'll know they are shameless copies of my originals. :rofl:

Greg

Edited by liveneasy

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Greg - I'll be sure to give you credit, how does the accidentstitch sound?

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