Rediculously Simple Question : Sharpening A Swivel Knife

[lydian8]

Ok, I've poked around but can't find a straight forward explanation. I've never sharpened anything in my life, let alone a specialty tool like a swivel knife. Can someone tell me how to do this and with what?

[AndiH]

I havent checked them out yet, nor did I bookmark the link (like an idiot) but I believe there are videos on YouTube. I'll be looking for it myself soon.

[Bob Blea]

In the leather tools section there are a couple of posts on knife sharpening but those are all (I think) about round knives or common knives. On the Leather Wranglers site they have instructions for sharpening one of their SK-3 swivel knives, but the info there would apply to any type of swivel knife. See the link below.

http://www.leatherwranglers.com/tips.html

[pabloz]

Thanks Bob for referring to our website. However, we just recently took down the swivel knife sharpening videos and will be putting them back up soon. One can still go to our site and download the swivel knife sharpening handout in the same page towards the bottom.

http://www.leatherwranglers.com/tips.html

Thanks,

PZ

[electrathon]

If you are not aware, Paul Zalesak if one of the best, anywhere, when it comes to sharpening.

[leatherjunkie]

After taking Paul Zalesak's class on sharpening, I am able to sharpen my swivel knife now without fear of ruining the blade.

[lydian8]

Thanks everyone. I'll check out all suggestions. Feel like an idiot, but I've never done this before.

Lenore

[AndiH]

Don't feel like an idiot. As someone wise once said, 'There is no stupid question.'

[RidgelineWorks]

Related question to this one. What is everyone's favorite swivel knife? I have been using the one I got from Tandy, which I assume is a basic beginner's knife, and I think it is getting dull, or maybe I am simply needing one better. In some of the videos and pics I have seen, the knife that is being used looks more flat, than the angled knife I am using. Opinions anyone???

[terrymac]

SK3 from Leather Wrangler gets my vote. Paul has come up with metal alloy that stays sharper longer than anything I have ever used. If you are just starting, I don't think an angle blade is the way to go. Flat blades are a lot easier the use, and angle blades present their own problems with sharpening. Regardless of brand you choose, having a sharp blade is the most important consideration you have. Most people don't have a clue what a sharp blade is, and the Leather Wrangler comes sharp and ready to go to work.

Hope this helps,

Terry

[electrathon]

I agree about the SK 3. It is likely the best you can find. If you do not have the money for it, the more economical quality choice is a Barry King knife.

[Bob Blea]

I have an SK 3 and it is my go to knife for everything. Rarely have to do more than strop it to keep it in good working order. I also have Barry King's knife and it is good and I use it for certain things (I have several beader blades for it and I like it for decorative cuts), but my Leather Wranglers knife is my #1 tool.

[RidgelineWorks]

Thank you for the info, y'all. It lokos like the SK3 is the way to go...

[JLSleather]

Seriously.. there's a knife sharpening CLASS?

As a used-to-be toolmaker, I've sharpened a LOT of stuff, using things from sandpaper to surface grinders. But when it comes to leather, I need a blade that cuts smoothly without drag. But I can do that for what... $3 (ish)? When they're dull, I pitch 'em and replace 'em. I think I've sharpened enough

My interest is the look and usefulness of the leather when I'm done carving. Not what name is on the side of the knife. Or the mallet. Or whatever.

Guy tells that story... Fella is blowing insulation in the walls of his house, decides he needs a drill.

Go to the store, and the guy tells him this drill is $19.

Next one is layin' there, and the guy tells him this one is variable speed, and it's $29.

A third model is variable speed AND reversible, and its $49.

One has all that, and hammer drill function, and it's $129.

So, the question was... which one does he need? Most people when asked that question say "the cheap drill". But what he actually needs is holes in the wall - which he could do with a hammer.

[TomG]

So, Bob and Electrathon. What makes the SK-3 better than others? What makes a knife bad, good or great? I have large hands and some arthritis setting in. I have been thinking of the newer Tandy Pro with the large barrel.

[MikeS]

I strope mine before and after every use with a bit of jeweler's rouge and a scrap piece of veg tanned leather, both rough then scarf side. It keeps it razor sharp every time.

As far as putting an edge on a completely dull blade, as cheap and readily available as they are, I would just replace it with a new blade and maintain it properly if it were me.

Knowing how to properly sharpen all types of blades is a skill everyone who uses them should master nonetheless.

[Bob Blea]

So, Bob and Electrathon. What makes the SK-3 better than others? What makes a knife bad, good or great? I have large hands and some arthritis setting in. I have been thinking of the newer Tandy Pro with the large barrel.

Tom, so here's what I've learned from talking to Paul Zalesak at Leather Wranglers, who has done a lot of research into what is actually happening when our blades get dull. He found that what really creates the drag we feel in a dull knife is the corrosion and pitting that the acids in the leather cause on the sides of the blades. When we strop the blade, we are microscopically polishing those pits back out and that works well until they get to the point where too big for the stop to polish out or you fold the edge over and need to put on a new edge. So what Paul did was hunt down a steel that is very resistant to corrosion and he found a special alloy that resists corrosion extremely well. It's also very hard, so it will maintain its edge for a long time. The problem with the Tandy knife is its a low carbon steel so it corrodes easier and has a softer edge, hence you need to work harder to maintain it. It can still work well for you, but you will need to maintain it a lot.

[TwinOaks]

I'll chime in and confirm what Bob wrote- I spent a while on the phone with Paul a good while back and he told me almost exactly the same thing. As to what makes a good knife - quality materials and funtionality. The SK3 has both. It certainly isn't the only knife in the tool box for many people, but Paul has blended a lightweight barrel with a very smooth (ball bearing supported) yoke. Then the addition of his super secret allow blade yields a knife that is easy and comfortable to use, and also doesn't require a whole lot of upkeep. That last part means that your time can be used for carving leather instead of working on your blades.

The other low maintenance option is a ceramic blade. By the simple choice of a non-steel blade, dulling by corrosion is removed as a factor. However, they are NOT 'ready to go' as they are purchased. There is a good article by 'Shtoink', that examines how and why ceramic blades need to be sharpened.

[electrathon]

So, Bob and Electrathon. What makes the SK-3 better than others? What makes a knife bad, good or great? I have large hands and some arthritis setting in. I have been thinking of the newer Tandy Pro with the large barrel.

Yes to all Bob said.

If you like to sharpen a lot and like knife drag, any chunk of low carbon steel will cut leather. A great blade will take a very sharp edge, will keep a sharp edge for a long time, will not corrode when expose to the stuff in leather that causes corrosion. The SK3 blade does all this. Knife conversations tend to fall along the quality verses the cheap all the time. Some people are content using their beginner kit Tandy knife forever. Other people like the feel of precision as they cut. It is a lot of personal feeling. Have a top chef try using a gensu knife and he will have trouble preparing dinner. Have a beginner use the chefs knifes and he will likely end up with Band-Aids all over. I do tend to agree to a point that beginners are usually content with beginners knives, they have not yet learned to feel the difference.

Paul tells the story often about the perfectly dull knife. He has had people buy a knife from him and complain that it cuts right through the leather. They are so used to using a dull knife they have never learned proper pressure and end up slicing right through. So for those people he strops the blade, taking off the very tip. They now have a knife that is only sort of sharp, will stay exactly like that for years an everyone is happy.

Here is a good sharpness test. Go to the edge of your leather and try to skive off the edge to a slight bevel. If your blade is sharp it will do this effortlessly. If it is not sharp it will be hard to control and hard to be consistent on your skive.