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BDAZ

Pyrography Update?

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I have searched the archives and I can find nothing current. My assistant is a very talented illustrator and I want to buy a pyrography setup to take advantage of her talents.

The Razertip seems to be the only one advertising a special low setting for leather work but they are the most expensive. There are others on Ebay that are less expensive but without the extra heat control, which is probably just an extra pot in the circuit I could probably wire in myself.

What are the recommendations of the pyrographers on the forum?

Thanks!

Bob

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Power control is not normally as simple an affair as a variable resistor.

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The Razertip has an extra pot to set the lowest heat setting, not affected at the higher ones. The tips run at two volts so I assume they are changing the amperage of the circuit to control the heat at the tip. The tips are nichrome wire. So one would probably have to reduce the amperage to the tip of alternative units to get lower heat settings.

I have been unable to find a schematic of any of the burners...

Cya!

Bob

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Versa Tool 25W with inline temperature control (SCR like in a light dimmer switch) $30. Low cost, reasonable selection of tips. At least good enough to see if you want to go further with a more expensive set.

Tom

Edit: added instructions for Versa Tool

Versa Tool Pyro.pdf

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Versa Tool 25W with inline temperature control (SCR like in a light dimmer switch) $30. Low cost, reasonable selection of tips. At least good enough to see if you want to go further with a more expensive set.

Tom

Edit: added instructions for Versa Tool

Versa Tool Pyro.pdf

Wonder if this would work for waxing edges on soft leather as well. Might have to get one, thanks for the link!

Jeremy

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Thanks Tom. We already tried an element based set but the unit is too unwieldy for fine detail and the tip heat is not constant enough. The wire tipped pen style is the only viable option.

202004-228x228.jpg

Cya!

Bob

Edited by BDAZ

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raysouth on these forums has or had a lot of Pyrography equipment for sale, he had a couple of units similar to the picture you have you might want to send him a PM and inquire. Last I seen a couple of weeks ago he had his whole shop for sale as a package deal however if you ask he might be willing to sell the pyrography stuff. Most of what I seen in previous posts looked in like new condition.

Edited by camano ridge

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Thanks!!

Cya!

Bob

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This is probably completely useless, but figured I'd throw it out there.

I bought this little iron yesterday at HF. I think it was like $5 on sale and figured I could use it on wood, or just as a soldering iron if nothing else. The box does say that it can be used with leather, but they'd probably tell you that you could eat it if it would sell more of them. I'll let you know how it works.

http://m.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-hobby-woodburner-38593.html

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Bought that one...not usable...

Went with the Colewood Super Pro II, lots of tips and not too hot for leather.

Cya!

Bob

post-47325-0-40004400-1398885991_thumb.j

Edited by BDAZ

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I do pyrography on lots of surfaces, paper, wood, leather, canvas etc.. I use a Razortip. Burning leather is all about temperature. I start at a low temperature to do layout, then as I fill in the piece I go back and keep working the shading. I suggest using a scrap pieces to get your temperature ranges you would like to use. When you start to work a project keep a scrap piece handy. Before putting tip to your project run it across the scrap to pull of some heat from the tip to eliminate the chance of small burn marks. Also keep your tip clean, leather dirties the tip quickly. When you do your practise work on scraps try the product you plan on finishing with. I use mink oil paste on most of my work. Depending on what you use you my find you need to darken your overall burn so as not to loose the detail in the burn if the finish darkens the leather.

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I just purchased the Razor Tip, and am looking forward to working on some projects. I've practiced on some scrap leather, achieved a good burn, but then decided to dye over the design with a light tan Angelus Dye. The dye removed much of the shading/blackened areas that had been burned into the leather - losing definition and contrast.

I have thought about dying the leather first, then burning, however I'm concerned about organic vapors. I bought a half face organic respirator with dual cartridges today that is rated for oil-free organic vapors, and for use with paints, lacquers, pesticides, insecticides, herbicides and fungicides. Before go the toxic route, is there any way to dye a large piece of leather that has been burned with pyrography without losing some of the detail to the dye?

Thank you.

Olive

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Hello Bdaz and others.

Love doing pyrography on leather and so many options available. I use, and enjoy, the Burnmaster Hawk and Eagle from www.woodcarverssupply.com , if I have that right. I have one of their handles and tips but prefer the Colwood, Razortip, Detailmaster pens by Liesuretime.com, and have a load of them in shop. All of the pens are interchangeable with different controllers, by means of different inexpensive adapters.

If anyone is interested, I am now slowing down a bit and am selling the Detailmaster pens first, as I have more of them in the shop so a good place to start.

Had offered them as a lot, some time ago but cannot remember if it was here or another site, Lost track and didn't keep good records. lol.

As for losing the detail when dye is used, that is a tough one. If the burn is heavy and dark, some of it will be very apparent after dye application and some may disappear.

Darker dyes are going to blend with the burns much more than some of the lighter colors available. I usually experiment on some scraps before making my choice of colors and depends on what I would like to accent on the piece. I have done some belts with heavy pyrography and then dyed very dark, ie; chocolate, coffee and the effect was great.

I suppose it is a matter of experimentation, to obtain the best results fro the piece you are making. Perhaps others have ideas and methods they have had success with and hope they respond as well.

God Bless.

Ray

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On 4/20/2014 at 9:42 AM, BDAZ said:

The Razertip has an extra pot to set the lowest heat setting, not affected at the higher ones. The tips run at two volts so I assume they are changing the amperage of the circuit to control the heat at the tip. The tips are nichrome wire. So one would probably have to reduce the amperage to the tip of alternative units to get lower heat settings.

I have been unable to find a schematic of any of the burners...

Cya!

Bob

If you have something that changed the voltage; if your voltage is changed, so is your amps. If your voltage is lowered, your amps go up. If If your voltage goes up, your amps go down.

"Don't squat with your spurs on"

Michael

Edited by Barbed Wire Leather

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