Lindsay John Ross

Hi Spinner, I have been using needle awl machines from Campbell Bosworth ( Randalls and Campbells) for over 30 odd years. Not running a mass producing factory anymore I have "stolen" 4 of the machines from those days there and have set them up in my custom shop. One thing I have discovered is that ( and I have 3 operating in my shop............ yes I know its overkill but I could do it so I did ) the Union Lockstitch machines without a doubt will give the tightest looking stitch of the 3 makes. The lock brake mechanism on these Unions is a much better "invention" than what is used on the Campbells in my opinion. It is this solid BRAKE that holds the thread tight during the lock.Im sure that Art , I and others could write screeds about these machines and their applications. I have had the Super Bull as well but after spending some time with it myself in the factory and having spare parts made for special applications, I just eventually gave up and it became another boat anchor From what I saw on the internet ( I live in Cape Town SA) and write ups, I really thought someone had come up with a NEW alternative to the needle awl machines........ only to find out that it was just another OVERSIZED domestic machine from the East that was revved up but still had the same inherent problems as all the other needle machines out there. If you want a machine to sew leather just dont look anywhere else other than the needle awls machines. The needle feed machines are easier to operate but that is the only advantage I see. Price is another factor but if you can afford them . Go for it!! At the top of the game is the Cyclone but that sells for around 10K and over and has a waiting period. The Unions are in the 5 to 6K when I looked last.I have been waiting a year now:) Anyone out there own a Cyclone? Take care. Lindsay

Thanx Ray. Excuse the dimness but what is FHT and where do I find the pdf catalogue? Thanx for the response. Lindsay

In days of yore I tried to buy brass buckles in Britain from a maker who told me not to even attempt anywhere other than in the EAST as , in his words " I have no idea just how they make them there. Its almost like they are using the spin cast method but with Brass" I have had a few samples over the years and they are made with precise perfection. Each one like the first. I have tried searching throught the internet but have come close but dont seem to be able to find a manufacturer of SOLID BRASS clip cornered buckles and Single bar Brass buckles. Any help would be wonderful. I live in Cape Town SA so importing is my only option. We would be using a few hundred a month or so I guess. - Thank you. Lindsay

Hi. It looks just like a British United Number 6 ( if my memory is well) harness stitcher that I once owned. A needle feed machine that did work reasonably well until I discovered needle awl machines. One thing I did like was the feeding mechanism which did not have a regular feed dog but was fed from the top . A needle feed machine.. That made the underside look similar to the top side in my opinion. I would say to resurrect it would be a good thing, if it is at all similar to what I had. Take care Lindsay

Aaaaah a man after our own hearts!

I have seen edge dye applicators that are not the normal round woolen head on a wire but elongated so that the dauber will not slip off the leather edge whilst applying. Amaost like a thick short pencil. Cant think where I saw them but I do know that I would prefer to use the " woolen" sort as felt does not hold enough dye for my purpose. Any ideas will be welcome. Lindsay

Thanx for the feedback. I see you know about our exchange rate Art......

Absolutely right Art. My operation is a 20 man factory. We dont use needle machines and only operate needle awl machines. I know for a fact that when something goes wrong it is a mission in itself to correct especially with the Unions we have, but over the years we have become a lot smarter in correcting these machines. To be said, the Unions are the real beasts when it comes to repairing. At present we run 3 Unions and 3 Campbells. We have discovered that these are the best for bulk manufacturing which we do. I agree when making thinner items as wallets etc a needle feed machine will work better. Ascan be seen in the attachment ( if it comes through) the small hole between the stitch is the appealing part of needle awl machines to me but I have seen good stitches made with a needle feed when the stitch is dampened and flattened with a smoothing tool. To Bruce.............. I read yor reply and am interested to know adresses or email adresses of anyone selling used Campbells or the like if you could helpGreat forum this. Lindsay

I have been making holsters for close to 30 years now and am always surprized at the attention needle feed machines get on these forums. Am I the only one in the universe that thinks that if you are going to attempt holster or any heavy duty gear manufacture , then you are going to need a needle awl machine. I have been through many needle machines in my earlier days only to find that if you want the best stitch and a machine capable of sewing up to an inch thickness, then these are the ones to look for. I am aware of the cost of most needle awl machines but cost aside you cant beat them for the stitch they make ( and that includes hand stitching as well)

Bruce, I have both the Ferdco Pro 2000 and the Adler 205/64 and they lie in storage. Because our factory uses only needle awl machines, we gave the Ferdco a shot ( on the advice of John Bianchi`s video) What I am keen on is finding an independent person I can send our stitched samples to including the thread and leather so that if anyone knows how to create a stitch similar to the needle awl ( as promised) with the Ferdco I would be very grateful. As I said it lies in storage and before I sell it ( never been in production) I would like a second opinion and trial with someone who owns the same machine. We have tried all the needles Jean Blanc could suggest and the thread they suggest but all for nothing. Any help would be appreciated. We are in Cape Town but would airmail the sampleas and leather samples so that someone could give it a shot and see if its just a setup on our side although we doubt it now. ( been here for 35 years so we are not newbies) Thanx Lindsay

Hi Wes In the factory world we use a 20 ton hydraulic press which is lined in the inside with layers of special hard rubber about 5" thick. The holster is dipped in water with some dishwasher similar liquid to allow more even penetration and then allowed to dry until the moisture is basically inside but starting to dry on the outside. The pressure is raised to 20 tons and then released. The hoslter with the aluminium replica ( which is used as the dummy) is removed and then re-wet with a sponge on the outside. We use stainless steel moulders ( they are in the shape of a bullet really) to hand mould the now impressed impressions into the leather. Basically just to enhance the moulded look. In a situation outside the speed production a factory would need I would follow the same steps but use the gun itself and of course just press it and mould by hand. If the holster is unlined one can get a pretty deep impression by hand moulding but if its lined ( suede or smooth lining) you are going to have to put some energy into it. Just wipe the gun off when finished and reoil. If you get the leather with just the right amount of moisture as stated above there is no reason to worry about the moisture on the gun and can easily be removed with adry cloth. I could go on forever with this but Im sure you get the drift. A good book with some info at the back on doing this by "hand" instead of using hydraulic presses and aluminium moulds is "Bue Steel and Gunleather" by John Bianchi written when he was still in the driving seat @ Bianchi Gunleather. Dont know if this helps. Lindsay