First Try At Making A Holster (Fail)

[Kring]

Well, this was my first ever attempt at making a holster. I wanted to try to make an IWB for my Colt 1911A1 Gov't. This was really meant as a prototype to test my pattern (which is why it isn't dyed), so in that respect I don't guess I should call this a total failure. There are a few things I would change, such as moving the stitching closer to the bottom of the frame, and moving the line around the trigger guard so that it doesn't touch the magazine release. Where I really screwed up was with my hardware selection. The posts for attaching the Snap studs were WAY too short and prevented me from being able to attach the belt loops--OOPS! Since they are sewn in between the two layers of leather, this one is going to have to go into the "I learned something from that one" pile.

This was my first try at wet moulding leather too, and I think that part of it came out looking fairly decent. With a few alterations to my pattern I think my next try should turn out much nicer. I'll have to dye it before putting it all together this time and pay a little more attention to the edges.

Anyway, comments and suggestions are welcome!

[particle]

Your boning looks great! I'm impressed that your first holster was an IWB. What weight leather is that?

I'd suggest buying longer screws to compensate for the short studs. This will allow you to at least wear the holster and see how comfortable it is, if it's the right ride height, cant, etc. See if anything else jumps out at you before you toss it in a box and move on.

Now that you have it assembled, you can measure your current stitch line in relation to the gun, and know almost exactly how much you need to move the stitch line on your pattern. I never get mine right with the first attempt at a new pattern.

Scribe a line on the leather where you need to cut around the trigger guard, then cleanly cut out the piece. Take the cut-off and lay it on your pattern and trace the new cut line onto the pattern.

Looks like the boning is pretty deep in the trigger guard and ejection port. Were you able to draw the weapon very easily?

Did you allow for any sort of sight channel? If the front sight is scraping the leather, be sure to allow room for a dowel on top of the slide when you revise your stitch line - otherwise it'll be too tight should you need to include one on your next attempt.

Again, great job. You're off to an excellent start.

[Kring]

Thanks for the suggestions!

The leather is a 4-5 oz that I normally use for insoles in the moccasins that I make. It seemed to be pretty close to the thickness of leather used in an IWB holster that I bought for a different pistol. What weight would you normally recommend? I don't have any trouble getting the gun in or out of the holster, but I am thinking that may have more to do with where the stitches along the bottom are placed. Since there is so much space between the stitches and the bottom of the frame the leather is able to spread apart making it pretty easy to get the gun in and out. At this point I can hang it upside down and the gun won't fall out, but it already seems to be losening up, so I'm not sure how long that will last. I didn't mold in a sight channel either. This pistol is ancient and barely has a front sight, but I think I will try to make a sight channel on my next attempt.

I did all of the boning with a pen cap that had a nice round end. LOL I'm not used to boning leather so I just grabbed something that I thought would work. I wish I had found this forum before I had started working on this a few days ago.

[particle]

If I were you, I'd go ahead and plan on a sight channel. Your pistol might not require it, but if you ever make one for a 1911 with the taller sights, you'll need the extra clearance built into your pattern.

4-5 is pretty thin leather. That explains how you were able to form in the little slide stop recess on the slide! I will be using 6-7 on my IWBs. I tried 5-6, and felt it was just too thin for my taste.

You might swing by the hobby store and buy the wooden clay sculpting tools they have - cheap, and a good start for boning your leather.

[mdmorgan]

If I were you, I'd go ahead and plan on a sight channel. Your pistol might not require it, but if you ever make one for a 1911 with the taller sights, you'll need the extra clearance built into your pattern.

4-5 is pretty thin leather. That explains how you were able to form in the little slide stop recess on the slide! I will be using 6-7 on my IWBs. I tried 5-6, and felt it was just too thin for my taste.

You might swing by the hobby store and buy the wooden clay sculpting tools they have - cheap, and a good start for boning your leather.

I agree, I use 6/7 for almost everything. Some might think it is a bit light for a pancake, but I have never had a problem with it. I just bought a side of 7/8 Herman Oak and I think it is too thick, it makes a nice holster, but I can't get the detail I want. I did a shoulder rig for a 1911 and I couldn't get the forward cocking lines to show. Not a big deal but something I like to see. I find the dull end of my free hand groover is great for boning. I also use a butter knife and a table spoon, but hey whatever works right?!

Edited April 16, 2010 by mdmorgan

[Rayban]

I too wondered how ya got the boning so deep....with such thin leather, it's now clear.

I haven't made lots of holsters but I use 8-10oz...thinking they will hold up longer. I'm not able to get all the boning lines that some people like to see, but I believe the retention I'm able to get out of it will hold up longer.

[Kring]

I will have to get some 6-7 oz leather and try again. I don't think I will be getting Hermann Oak, since I don't particularly want to have to buy 10 hides unless I'm going to be selling these things. LOL I'm going to make the adjustments suggested to the pattern and I'll post my results when I have some.

[Shorts]

I will have to get some 6-7 oz leather and try again. I don't think I will be getting Hermann Oak, since I don't particularly want to have to buy 10 hides unless I'm going to be selling these things. LOL I'm going to make the adjustments suggested to the pattern and I'll post my results when I have some.

You don't need to buy 10 hides. Go to the Springfield Leather link at the top and get the size piece you need.

As for IWBs use 6/7oz. What you dd there is way too light unless you're using it in conjunction with a kydex or other rigid material. I use 4/5oz on my steering wheel wrap

BTW I've got a ton of those undyed holsters to try out patterns. Nice job. The first prototype is a huge step in getting to your finished model.

Edited April 17, 2010 by Shorts