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mickt

Problem With Clutch Popping Out

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Hello,

I hope someone can help with another problem I'm having with my Consew 226.

The problem Is this, Every time I try to change my stitch length, my safety clutch kicks in and puts the machine in free running mode.

Bob with Toledo Industrial sewing machines has worked with me for the last 10 days or so off and on trying to help me correct this problem, but I apparently am not understanding his advise or the machine has other problems. I've called Bob so many times that I am feeling guilty about it, so I thought I would throw it out here and see what happens.

What I have done so for, is to loosen the allen screws on the feed eccentric to hopefully free up the screws from the "GIB" thinking they were holding it to tight to be able to work. It was first suggested that I back them out about ¼ turn. I did that and there was no difference. I then backed them out ½ turn and still no difference.

Today I released the spring and collar that holds the cam in place, slid the cam over to inspect it. I found the cam had some dirt but not much inside the groove. I cleaned all the parts of any dirt or grime. All parts looked good to me including the little pin,

After cleaning all the parts I oiled them and placed them back as they should be or at least the way I found them. I then went to test my stitch length by pushing in the button on the left until it dropped into the groove and by turning the hand wheel towards me, after it dropped into the groove I gave it a little harder turn and the clutch popped just like it did before. I was able to see the cam rotate so I believe it was working, I assume the cam rotates since there is a groove in it that the pin rides in on the eccentric body?

I have set the allen screws all the way from tight to backing them off one full turn a quarter turn at a time with no difference as the clutch still pops out.

It was even suggested that I adjust the clutch screw so as to set the sensitivity of the clutch. I tried that by turning the screw just a little at a time in both directions and the only thing that happens is when turning the hank crank to change the stitches it gets harder to turn to the point I am afraid I may break something, and also I don't believe it should be that hard to turn under normal use.

When I bought the machine it was set at 6 stitches and has remained this way, and I have not been able to change them.

I'm sorry for the long post, but I am trying to describe the problem as best I can. I feel this is a pretty simple fix but for some reason I am not getting it.

If anyone can throw in their thoughts it would be very much appreciated.

Have a great weekend and thanks in advance

Mick

Edited by mickt

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I am sure Bob knows a lot more of these machines than me.

Sound to me like the safetyclutch doesn't work propperly. It doesn't 'set' anymore for some reason. I don't think it should pop out that easy? Ik have to mess things up pretty bad to make the clutch kick in? Maybe you could post some pictures of the clutch? I realy don't know how yours looks like.

Sandy.

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post-23557-072903900 1313209252_thumb.jppost-23557-046107300 1313209219_thumb.jp

I am sure Bob knows a lot more of these machines than me.

Sound to me like the safetyclutch doesn't work propperly. It doesn't 'set' anymore for some reason. I don't think it should pop out that easy? Ik have to mess things up pretty bad to make the clutch kick in? Maybe you could post some pictures of the clutch? I realy don't know how yours looks like.

Sandy.

Hi Sandy, thanks for the reply.

Yes I think Bob has forgotten more then I could learn in a life time. I believe he may have photograpth memory , seems to see every every nut, bolt, screw and spring on my machine as I'm talking to him on the phone.

Here are a few photograph's of the areas of concern on my machine. (if I can load them right)

The one with the yellow arrow shows the gib or wedge sticking up and not flush with the rest of the unit. This was sticking up this way at first and then I set it flush and tightened the allen screws, on the first attempt to set my stitch

length it resumed the out of flush position again.

The clutch is something I have not messed with since I don't know how to take it out and clean it and adjust it and put it back in. The only thing I have done is turn the screw back and forth.

Mick

Edited by mickt

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I'm sorry Mick. I wouldn't know. Have you fixed it yet?

Sandy.

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I'm going to jump in here and say that the safety cluch really sounds like it needs to be serviced, and in the hands of an experienced mechanic. Next to impossible to trouble shoot without seeing the unit in hand. I've never been a fan of this clutch, even though it's WIDELY used on many high end machines from Singer, Consew, Seiko, Adler, and a whole bunch more. In fact, I'm surprised to see it on so many new machines. If it's not made exactly correct with high quialty metals, it's going to give problems in many cases, and the counter hook spring is almost a sure bet to flick off and get lost somewhere.

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I'm sorry Mick. I wouldn't know. Have you fixed it yet?

Sandy.

Hi Sandy,

Thanks for the concern. I'm sorry to get back to you so late, but my day job and other tasks have gotten in the way of my play time. No haven't fixed it all yet but have the gib and stitch control part freed up and working. :yeah: Thinking now I need to get a new tention spring for the clutch.

Thanks again

Mick

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Hi Mick,

So there were multiple issues with the machine. It's hard to solve problems that way. But one is out of the way. Congrats on that.

Let us know when you fixed it please. Maybe with some pics? It's just another welcome peace of information on the big pile overhere on this forum.

Sandy.

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I'm going to jump in here and say that the safety cluch really sounds like it needs to be serviced, and in the hands of an experienced mechanic. Next to impossible to trouble shoot without seeing the unit in hand. I've never been a fan of this clutch, even though it's WIDELY used on many high end machines from Singer, Consew, Seiko, Adler, and a whole bunch more. In fact, I'm surprised to see it on so many new machines. If it's not made exactly correct with high quialty metals, it's going to give problems in many cases, and the counter hook spring is almost a sure bet to flick off and get lost somewhere.

Hi Gregg

Sorry to just be getting back to you,I just now found your reply to help and my day job has been getting in the way of fun time. I think you may be right about the clutch. I ordered a new clutch spring today hoping that it may be the problem.

I was able to get the gib out and it had a few bad places rough spots on it as well as some built up gunk, cleaned it up and filed down the high places, as well as cleaning up the whole stitch selecter area, the cam was not moving before the clean up and now it is, so I think that was part of the problem.

It still pops the clutch when trying to select a different stitch and tigthing the tention spring screw on the clutch makes turning the hand wheel really hard whitch can't be right. The clutch having a problem is the only thing I can think of, but I am no expert on this.

The machine works great after everyones help on timing the machine, makes nice neat stitches. I also put a 13/4 inch pully on the motor today and that slowed the machine down to a speed that I like making it more controlable thanks to reading about doing it on this board.

When you say you don't like this type clutch, does that mean that there is a different type/model clutch that this one can be replaced with?

If anyone has any other ideas to help I could use them.

Thanks

Mick

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Hi Mick,

So there were multiple issues with the machine. It's hard to solve problems that way. But one is out of the way. Congrats on that.

Let us know when you fixed it please. Maybe with some pics? It's just another welcome peace of information on the big pile overhere on this forum.

Sandy.

Sandy

Yes it appears that there were multiple issues, Seem it had alot of built up gunk on the stitch selector not letting it slide. At this time the machine only stitches 6 stiches per inch probably good for most anything I would sew, but since it has a selector I would like it to work the right way.

Thanks again

Mick

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It still pops the clutch when trying to select a different stitch and tigthing the tention spring screw on the clutch makes turning the hand wheel really hard whitch can't be right. The clutch having a problem is the only thing I can think of, but I am no expert on this.

I am no expert either but this doesn't sound like a savetyclutch problem to me?? At first I thought the clutch popped out by turning the wheel with no efford. But you have to turn it hard to make the clutch pop out? Then it is still jammed somewhere I think.

Sandy.

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I am no expert either but this doesn't sound like a savetyclutch problem to me?? At first I thought the clutch popped out by turning the wheel with no efford. But you have to turn it hard to make the clutch pop out? Then it is still jammed somewhere I think.

Sandy.

Maybe I did not get it fixed afterall, to be honest I don't have a clue how to fix it. I'm not really sure how it works, all I know is the stitch changing part moves now where before it did not. Maybe it's moving but not like it should be!

Mick

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Hi mickt, in my opinion, it is not the safety clutch. The safety clutch is doing it's job.....popping out if there is a problem. In my opinion I think it is your stitch length mechanism that is causing the problem. I have seen many machines where the stitch length mechanism is frozen. As Gregg says, it should be looked at by a good mechanic like Bob Kovar or someone with his knowledge. I have done this type of work also, but I am in California, so it would be worth it to ship the machine to Bob, and he can repair it and have it taken care of once and for all, yes it will cost $100-$150 to ship it back and forth, plus the repair, but it will last you 20 years. Thanks, Steve

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Hi mickt, in my opinion, it is not the safety clutch. The safety clutch is doing it's job.....popping out if there is a problem. In my opinion I think it is your stitch length mechanism that is causing the problem. I have seen many machines where the stitch length mechanism is frozen. As Gregg says, it should be looked at by a good mechanic like Bob Kovar or someone with his knowledge. I have done this type of work also, but I am in California, so it would be worth it to ship the machine to Bob, and he can repair it and have it taken care of once and for all, yes it will cost $100-$150 to ship it back and forth, plus the repair, but it will last you 20 years. Thanks, Steve

Hi Steve, sorry it took so long to get back to you.

I believe we got the probem fixed. You all can slap me silly if you want to but I need to do it to myself first. It appears that I did know how to work the stitch selector the right way.

Thanks to Bob Kovar and his putting up with me and picking his brain. I'm sure he stayed awake at night trying to figure it out also.

Thanks for your help and concerns in trying to help me. This is a great board, with all the folks here trying to help each other, and everyone is soooooo nice, I'll put up another post and let everyone know what went wrong and what went right.

Thanks again

Mick

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