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Tanners Bond Contact Cement Changed Again? Arrgh!

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I have been using gallon jugs of Tandy's contact cement 4085 in their red bordered container. Worked great! Better than weldwood IMHO. Purchased the latest version in a green bordered container labeled 2525-04. It is a clear thin glue that does NOT work like the previous version. Takes a long time to set up comparatively and does not have the gluing strength. Has this changed or have I just purchased the worng can? Sorry for the rant but what gives?

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You probably picked up a "low VOC" version of it. I don't have personal experience with the tanner's bond, but Weldwood has their 'regular' in a red border and the 'low VOC' in a green border.....so I'm just extrapolating that other companies probably did something similar.

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I have been using the one with the Green Border and it works great for me... Better than Masters ....I am one of the few that Masters & Barge just tears me up.......I have NO POBLEMS WITH THE NEW TANNERS BOND..

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I did notice that it does have low VOC. 303 vs. the older 499. Appearantly low VOC does mean inferior adhesion. Dissappointed nonetheless. I hope they still make the "red" can version, will check tomorrow and report. Unequivocally, the adhesion difference is significant. Glued two identical strips to same leather. Green version tears off separating the glue, red version tears the leather before releasing. Suppose if you never used the red can version you have no point of comparison. Anybody else have experience here? Chime in. Is the older version still available in another brand?

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Sorry, but the green can is what they carry now. The red can clearly read "Barge" on it. The green can stuff is definitely different. The fumes from the barge made stuff killed me. This stuff has a completely different

smell so it's definitely been reformulated and it doesn't bother me. The red can has been discontinued for over a year so it's doubtful anyone has any left.

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Tandy has had to reformulate or drop a lot of their chemical based products due to government regulations. They're not just doing this for no reason.

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I just purchased a can of Barge Contact Cement to replace my red-bordered Tanner's Bond Contact Cement which was made by Barge. I am expecting them to be the same. I do have a question...the side of my old Tanners Bond Contact Cement (v-4085 red labeled) can says, "Thin with Tanners Bond Thinner." If they changed the formulation of the new Tanners Bond Contact Cement, did they also change the thinner? If so, should I be thinning with Barge Cement Thinner?

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Dont know the answer to the question on thinner but this is not a government regulation but simply a tandy "change" in product attempting to be "green" I called barge, and they still make their Barge product (red & yellow can) just not the proprietary tandy formulation. Masters still makes their product. Government did not force any reformulations. Remember we heard the same thing about Neat-lac. Yet it is readily produced under a different trade name.

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I just got a letter from Springfield and they will be reproducing Tandys old formula. You might check with them if your not happy with what you're using.

I personally use Renia colle de cologne but I bond more than just leather.

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Renia is the Mercedes of contact cements IMHO. Luke, I get " torn up" by Barge and Master"s as well. After years of exposure I think that I have about reached my limit.

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Where do you buy it? Price ? Why is it better or best?

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Renia really is far more advanced than any other, they are safer and stronger than any other and most importantly for me is it bonds nearly any material, like polyurethane, and thermal plastic(with primers). If I were just bonding leather though I would probably just use masters or weldwood as its cheaper and they work. I found the key to all of those is a good glue pot. I use the big boy plastic ones.

I get mine at Frankford leather in Pa. I think you need a wholesale account to order from them. Isachs in Chicago has it and sells to anyone.

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Renia colle de cologne is about 50-60/gallon and Masters MULTI purpose is the same exact glue, they buy it from Renia and repackage it and its sometimes a little cheaper. Its very important to start with a brand new glue pot, I can assure you you can't clean one out good enough, I tried, the slightest contamination made it get all slimey.

Also Masters Max Bond is a very good Cement and is made by Renia as well. Both Cements are Toluene and MEK free so they are about as safe as it gets but you should still have proper ventilation.

Both are really designed for the shoe repair industry and probably a little overkill for just leather however they are safer than Masters All purpose because it has MEK and toluene in it so it could still be a wise choice for just leather too

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These are the types of glue pots I use. Its very important to keep the lid on when not in use and turn them upright. I NEVER thin my glues now that I use these. Any other pot I've used allows too much evaporation and I was constantly thinning it down.

23017553-BC3B-4213-AFDF-48EABF0D2BB9-37044-0000214459E07433.jpg

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Good stuff to know. Question about the Renia product and the Master MULTI: Does the glue product activate by heat for example would the glue separate or soften if left in a hot car?

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It should not separate just by being left in a car but enough heat will re-activate it and just about any cement. . For high heat applications like if your glueing on soles where a guy may work on hot asphalt all day there is a hardener for the Renia glues. I've never had it separate on leather without the hardener, that's really only needed in some extreme cases.

I attended a bonding seminar this past year, it was quite informative, the videos should be on YouTube. You could probably just search Renia or SSIA to watch the whole seminar. A lot of it is based on bonding synthetic materials though so it may not apply to what you're doing but it doesn't hurt to know and they talk about the safety aspect, green strengths etc.

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It should not separate just by being left in a car but enough heat will re-activate it and just about any cement. . For high heat applications like if your glueing on soles where a guy may work on hot asphalt all day there is a hardener for the Renia glues. I've never had it separate on leather without the hardener, that's really only needed in some extreme cases.

I attended a bonding seminar this past year, it was quite informative, the videos should be on YouTube. You could probably just search Renia or SSIA to watch the whole seminar. A lot of it is based on bonding synthetic materials though so it may not apply to what you're doing but it doesn't hurt to know and they talk about the safety aspect, green strengths etc.

Yo this was really informative... Im looking for a glue specifically for reattaching sneaker soles and this helped me alot... Was looking for something that works but also has low open time, 10 mins tops. The Renia website is a such a mess lol. Thanks

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Pretty old thread. Since then, things in the adhesive world have changed a little but not a lot. Renia has been around a while and I've been using it for a few years. I had no idea at first that Master Max-Bond was Renia Colle de Cologne, but that didn't matter, because it smells better and works better. It is in all however, what you get used to.

Art

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Pretty old thread. Since then, things in the adhesive world have changed a little but not a lot. Renia has been around a while and I've been using it for a few years. I had no idea at first that Master Max-Bond was Renia Colle de Cologne, but that didn't matter, because it smells better and works better. It is in all however, what you get used to.

Art

Hey art, which one smells better and works better?? Its sounds like your saying Max Bond i just want to be sure lol. Also where do you purchase the Max Bond? I have a whole finished attic that will be my workspace but since its an attic its not well ventilated... Have to have a glue that works but is also free of those bad and smelly chemicals

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Hey art, which one smells better and works better?? Its sounds like your saying Max Bond i just want to be sure lol. Also where do you purchase the Max Bond? I have a whole finished attic that will be my workspace but since its an attic its not well ventilated... Have to have a glue that works but is also free of those bad and smelly chemicals

I use the Renia Colle de Cologne now as the warehouse apes would just see Master on the pick list and ignored the Max Bond. It's the same stuff, same smell; a lot less smell than the old Master (still have an unopened gallon of that). Colle de Cologne and Ortec are available at most ortho suppliers; you can use either one, just a little difference in open time. Atlas Ortho is one of the suppliers I use. Also, the thinner for the Renia glues is called Schnellkleber verdünner which is "fast adhesive thinner" in German. My cans don't have any English on them, this might be different now. These are good products.

Art

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Cool beans, I will get the Renia Colle then... Do i need thinner? If im using my and sealing my glue properly?? I planned on getting a glue pot too

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Eventually, all this stuff needs thinner, the Renia less so than others.

Art

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Ok thanks for all your help!

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I've been around the block with adhesive pots etc. I've got expensive teflon ones, and expensive colored plastic ones, and some I don't even remember. The ones that have worked best are the Plastic Cement Jars from Springfield Leather in 16 oz when they have them.

Art

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I get my Master Max Bond from Montana Leather Co. I buy it at a trade show they attend here in AZ once a year, so don't know what the shipping would be, but the last gallon I bought from them in February, was $48. I don't THINK that was a show special, though not certain. They don't have it on their website, so you'll need to email or call.

Montana Leather

Paul

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