More examples of my work

[SteveBrambley]

Hi,

The two items I posted earlier are not the type of thing I do everyday, so I thought I'd better show some of my more regular work!

Here are a couple of heavy (3.5/4mm) traditional cartridge bags, a 12 gauge cartridge belt and a gunslip.

[ArtS]

Beautiful work Steve. That belt looks like it would be hard to make!

Art

[rdb]

Classic!

I love this stuff. Good lines, simple construction done well. You can't ask for better. I am so glad you are sharing these things with us. I hope, in the future, you may be willing to share some construction techniques. But, if nothing else, the pictures are inspirational. Thanks again.

[SteveBrambley]

Hi Art, rdb,

Thank you for your kind words, I really find them encouraging. The belt is not that difficult, just a bit tricky to get the small pockets regular in size, and parallel with one another. It will be my pleasure to pass on any constructional techniques to anybody who would like them.

Again, many thanks.

Steve

[rootbear]

that is some of the nicest work i;ve seen !

[David]

Steve,

Those cartridge bags are some of the cleanest construction I've seen. BEAUTIFUL.

David Theobald

[craftsman827]

BEAUTIFUL work,Steve.

What type of leather do you use ?

Looks like chrome tannd, as apposed to bark tanned.

Either one they are some great lookin items.

Also ,what type of sewing macheine do you use?

[Cowboy Crafts Online]

I would have to add to the others. That is some very clean work.

ashley

[SteveBrambley]

BEAUTIFUL work,Steve.

What type of leather do you use ?

Looks like chrome tannd, as apposed to bark tanned.

Either one they are some great lookin items.

Also ,what type of sewing macheine do you use?

Thank you very much.

The leather is described by our suppliers as 'Saddle Shoulder', I'm pretty sure it is bark tanned, as it gives off a good 'leathery' smell that you don't get with mineral tanning. The light tan leather seems to have been 'pigment' dyed, as the colour doesn't penetrate right through, and the cut edges are 'natural', however, the burgundy leather seems to have been 'drum' dyed, as the colour does go right through; why this should be I don't know.

I used two machines to assemble the cartridge bags. All the edge binding was done, by hand, with a 'Typical TW3-441', which you are probably more familar as the 'Artisan 3000'. For the actual closing I use an 'Adler 105-64', as this is fitted with a much smaller presser foot, which makes the operation much easier.

Oh yes, I almost forgot, all the flat work, the straps and chapes etc. were done using an 'Adler 204-64' flat bed machine.

Steve

Edited October 10, 2008 by SteveBrambley

[mudman]

[esantoro]

I love the simple, clean, stitching. Very elegant. Nice work.

[torrbuidhe]

It's been very interesting looking at all your machines in the needlebar gallery, but it's good to see what you actually make with them.

[esantoro]

Hi,

The two items I posted earlier are not the type of thing I do everyday, so I thought I'd better show some of my more regular work!

Here are a couple of heavy (3.5/4mm) traditional cartridge bags, a 12 gauge cartridge belt and a gunslip.

Hi Steve,

Do you have a special method for setting the edge binding by hand? Very smooth work.

Ed

Edited October 15, 2008 by esantoro

[esantoro]

It's been very interesting looking at all your machines in the needlebar gallery, but it's good to see what you actually make with them.

Is this "Needlebar Gallery" online someplace?

[SteveBrambley]

Hi Ed,

To reply to both your questions.

First, no, I don't anything other than a simple, steel, edge guide. This I position depending on how wide the binding tape is, that I am using at the time (I usually use 1"), this helps prevent the tape slipping sideways. The only other thing is that I use the edge of the inside presser foot as a guide for the inside edge of the tape; it's just practice really, I've been doing it an awfully long time! Although I do use a folder for some simple, long straight items, I find it easier to just use my fingers to guide the leather tape through the machine, particularly around tricky inside curves.

Second, you can find the Needlebar gallery at: www.needlebar.org You don't need to become a member to view their picture gallery, but you do if you wish to read or join in the forums.

Steve

Edited October 15, 2008 by SteveBrambley

[esantoro]

Hi Ed,

To reply to both your questions.

First, no, I don't anything other than a simple, steel, edge guide. This I position depending on how wide the binding tape is, that I am using at the time (I usually use 1"), this helps prevent the tape slipping sideways. The only other thing is that I use the edge of the inside presser foot as a guide for the inside edge of the tape; it's just practice really, I've been doing it an awfully long time! Although I do use a folder for some simple, long straight items, I find it easier to just use my fingers to guide the leather tape through the machine, particularly around tricky inside curves.

Second, you can find the Needlebar gallery at: www.needlebar.org You don't need to become a member to view their picture gallery, but you do if you wish to read or join in the forums.

Steve

Thanks, Steve.

I just now finished binding on a bag panel. This time I used a bone folder to crease the skived binding leather (1.3 mm thick), which I glued into place. I use 1.25" binding leather to give me room to set and stitch.

Ed

[SteveBrambley]

Thanks, Steve.

I just now finished binding on a bag panel. This time I used a bone folder to crease the skived binding leather (1.3 mm thick), which I glued into place. I use 1.25" binding leather to give me room to set and stitch.

Ed

Hi Ed,

Have you ever tried Double Sided Tape? I have heard that some use it for holding binding in place while stitching, though I would think it would only help for long, straight sections and very shallow curves.

All the binding I use is 1.0mm thick, any thicker and I find it a bit tight round some sharp corners. Also, I find that it is better to be on the firm side, as softer bindings are more difficult to control, and tend to get squeezed off the edge.

Steve

Edited October 15, 2008 by SteveBrambley

[esantoro]

Hi Ed,

Have you ever tried Double Sided Tape? I have heard that some use it for holding binding in place while stitching, though I would think it would only help for long, straight sections and very shallow curves.

All the binding I use is 1.0mm thick, any thicker and I find it a bit tight round some sharp corners. Also, I find that it is better to be on the firm side, as softer bindings are more difficult to control, and tend to get squeezed off the edge.

Steve

Hi Steve,

Is it possible to buy this 1 mm leather binding tape or do you have to skive down to that thickness yourself? Perhaps the thinner tape would be easier to control while feeding the machine.

Ed

[SteveBrambley]

Hi Steve,

Is it possible to buy this 1 mm leather binding tape or do you have to skive down to that thickness yourself? Perhaps the thinner tape would be easier to control while feeding the machine.

Ed

Well, yes, we can get leather binding tape split to any thickness required. We usually have our leather supplier send a roll, of whichever colour we need, directly to the people who then cut it into the required width and split it down to 1.0mm. It is then joined together into approx. 50m reels, ready for use. I could split it myself, using our skiving machine, but doing it this way saves a lot of time. Also, they make a very good job when they join it all together, you would find it quite difficult to detect the joins!

Steve

[Davy]

Some times you have to be careful with the double sided tape , It's generally acrylic and some are different to others . If you get the wrong one , as your needle gets hot while sewing fast the glue will stick to the needle and thread then you will start dropping stitches . The best one to use is one that trimmers use , generally obtained from upholstery supplies , you won't have any problems . Great to locate things , clean no mess , definite edge , though sometimes as with wallet folds etc its better to use contact or neoprene solution . If you can bind freehand , with practice you'll get better and better , its always the best option I think .

[SteveBrambley]

Some times you have to be careful with the double sided tape , It's generally acrylic and some are different to others . If you get the wrong one , as your needle gets hot while sewing fast the glue will stick to the needle and thread then you will start dropping stitches . The best one to use is one that trimmers use , generally obtained from upholstery supplies , you won't have any problems . Great to locate things , clean no mess , definite edge , though sometimes as with wallet folds etc its better to use contact or neoprene solution . If you can bind freehand , with practice you'll get better and better , its always the best option I think .

Yes, you're quite right, as I said previously, I mainly bind free hand anyway, and have done for nearly 40 years. I heard of double sided tape being used for binding, and did try it once just out of curiosity, and it did work. I usually only use it, as you suggested, for holding lock patches, chapes etc. in place while stitching. The most useful job for it, I find, is holding zips in place on bags, as it is tricky to use neoprene without getting it all over the part of the zip tape that is left exposed.

Steve

[Davy]

Yes, you're quite right, as I said previously, I mainly bind free hand anyway, and have done for nearly 40 years. I heard of double sided tape being used for binding, and did try it once just out of curiosity, and it did work. I usually only use it, as you suggested, for holding lock patches, chapes etc. in place while stitching. The most useful job for it, I find, is holding zips in place on bags, as it is tricky to use neoprene without getting it all over the part of the zip tape that is left exposed.

Steve

Dead right Steve , zips are exactly where its most useful (forgot about that one) . Ever tried sewing a 6mtr chunky zip into a cover freehand , that's fun !!!

[SteveBrambley]

Thank you very much.

The leather is described by our suppliers as 'Saddle Shoulder', I'm pretty sure it is bark tanned, as it gives off a good 'leathery' smell that you don't get with mineral tanning. The light tan leather seems to have been 'pigment' dyed, as the colour doesn't penetrate right through, and the cut edges are 'natural', however, the burgundy leather seems to have been 'drum' dyed, as the colour does go right through; why this should be I don't know.

I used two machines to assemble the cartridge bags. All the edge binding was done, by hand, with a 'Typical TW3-441', which you are probably more familar as the 'Artisan 3000'. For the actual closing I use an 'Adler 105-64', as this is fitted with a much smaller presser foot, which makes the operation much easier.

Oh yes, I almost forgot, all the flat work, the straps and chapes etc. were done using an 'Adler 204-64' flat bed machine.

Steve

Slight error here. The 'Typical TW3-441' is the 'Artrisan Toro-4000R' not the '3000'. My mistake! Here's a photo of our machine, the one I actually use.

Steve